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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 29, 2005 - 02:52pm PT
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I plan to be climbing Double Cross this Fri AM if anyone wants to come by and meet the Rockstar. This is your chance ladies to meet a real man.
If you miss me I will be at Oasis of Eden in the PM.
Juan "Son of Migrants" De Fuca
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Mar 29, 2005 - 04:30pm PT
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Someone needs to break your computer.
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Korps
Social climber
Inebriation
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Mar 29, 2005 - 04:35pm PT
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rockstar soon you will be mine
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Gnat
climber
Smell A
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Mar 29, 2005 - 04:51pm PT
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Don't know many "real men" who hang out at Double Cross. The locale is usually the scene of gumby epics. The climb has a "double woose" factor now that a bolt has been placed on the lower section.
Can we come by and mock?
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Mar 29, 2005 - 04:56pm PT
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CHOP IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2005 - 05:22pm PT
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I will not be using the new bolt, but I will not be chopping it either. 5 climbers have been killed on Double Cross.
Rockstar
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Mar 29, 2005 - 07:38pm PT
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Actually you can go to JT any weekend and watch nothing but gumbies on the rock. It's getting pretty hard to find any decent climbs even being attempted. What the hell happened to all the decent climbers? Nothing but gumbies like Juanita out there now!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2005 - 07:47pm PT
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Why don’t you just sit there and bleed a while before you taste some real pain.
Sir JuanDeFuca
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2005 - 08:02pm PT
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The bolt was added this last Sunday to protect the crack entry move. The crack that used to take a nut placement has worn out. You can use a pink tricam, if you do not want to clip the bolt.
Rockstar
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Mar 29, 2005 - 09:40pm PT
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Ducks in a barrel...
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Mar 29, 2005 - 10:05pm PT
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Bolt choppers are idiots! Wanna make out with me TR?
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Mar 29, 2005 - 10:07pm PT
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I'm hot.
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 29, 2005 - 10:28pm PT
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You have got to be kidding!!?? Why?
I was there on saturday and climbed it!
Good thing I wasn't there on Sunday....
Was the bolt placed on the first ascent? I think not!!!
There should not be a bolt on that route!
I've never chopped a bolt before but If that bolt
is still there on Saturday.......
PS: T*R what If I look under 30?
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Mar 29, 2005 - 10:35pm PT
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Trust me TR, if it takes bolt-choppers to turn you on I don't want anything to do with you.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 29, 2005 - 11:35pm PT
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JDF, forget JTree. You should go to Alabama Hills this weekend.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2005 - 11:55pm PT
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Like I said, the crack has worn out due to the nut placements. What do you suggest, what are people going to do for a placement.
Look you do not have to use the new bolt, like I said before.
I do not know how long some of you people have been trad climbing, but just because a bolt was placed by the first ascent team does not mean you have to clip it.
Joshua tree is a perfect example of an area in which most routes were over bolted by the first ascent teams.
Case in point Echo Rock. Falcon and the Snowman, Black Tide, Double Dip, Stick to What, are all examples of over bolted routes. No sense of danger. No chance of injury.
The wonderland has some well engineered routes Solid Gold, Monkey on my Back, etc. Saddle Rocks too - High cost of Living and that Tobin thing.
I really have to blame the Vogel Guides, they taught of a whole generation of trads how not to put up a route. When in doubt, err on safety. Very Sad.
I do not know how to say this in a nice manner, but if you are cliping ever bolt you encounter, you really are not to bold a climber.
Just my two cents.
Rockstar
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2005 - 12:04am PT
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Gary,
JuanDeFuca Here, its nice to see a real climber join the discussion.
I might head out for the day, if I get all my work done at the lab.
Big Rock for sure. Wed night bouldering at Stoney for sure.
Can hardly wait for first Taqhiituitz trip.
Juan
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Mar 30, 2005 - 02:30am PT
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"The bolt was added this last Sunday to protect the crack entry move. The crack that used to take a nut placement has worn out. You can use a pink tricam, if you do not want to clip the bolt. "
Yeah...or you could grab the jugs and stuff a cam in the crack. From what I saw most people cratered cause they dicked around too long trying to get a piece in a couple moves off the ledge instead of sending the jugs. Just cause it's 5.7+ (5.8?) and a hand crack and near the road and everyone does it doesn't mean its safe or easy. It is J-Tree after all. I've onsigted 5.11's and cried my way up 5.7's there.
Also..can't you get a marginally decent cam in the crack to the left? Been a while but I seem to recall that.
Either way the bolt is BS and should be yanked with neither malice nor remorse.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Mar 30, 2005 - 02:37am PT
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I don't think you guys are giving Juan his proper level of respect. Once you get to know the man, and his skills, you'll know how to follow his ethics and recommendations.
Until then, you'll just have to squirm in your own juices.
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