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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 14, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
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There's a sentence of a description in the Fiddler and Moynier guidebook about this route on the Third Pillar of Dana. It says that it follows cracks (10d) on the broad face just right of the regular route and joins it a pitch or two from the top. It says that Peter (Maysho) did FA. Has anyone done this one? I'd love to get a more detailed description or a topo of the route before next weekend. I remember looking over in that direction from the regular route and seeing several potential routes. Thanks.
Vlad
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
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I doubt this route is terribly obvious considering how many features there are on that thing. Sounds like an adventure!
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b.p.
climber
bishop
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
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The topo is in the old Reid/Falkenstein guidebook, if you can get a copy. I don't have a scanner, but I could fax it, if you e-mail me. Good route, stout first pitch, links up to the regular route at the second to last belay.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 15, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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from Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows Reid & Falkenstein ©1983
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 15, 2008 - 12:10am PT
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interestingly, there is not much info given in Reid & Falkenstein, it says Peter Mayfield 1980s but gives no other information on partners, and the date is pretty general. The topo is in the most recent Reid & Falkenstein...
Peter have any more info?
Also there is the North Buttress route, 5.7 by Phil Bircheff and Gary Ogg, 7/71, anyone know about this?
There is a climb on Ferdinand's Point, Minotar 5.8 put up by Claude Fiddler and Rich Cashner, 7/85... but no information, just where is Ferdinand's Point?
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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
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Ed, thanks so much! I'll get on this one next weekend! Fiddler and Moynier guidebook mentions the name of the partner on the FA, but I forgot the name as I never heard it before.
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 15, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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The first time I set out to climb the Third Pillar, we got off route and ended up on some scary water streaks in between the two routes. Then we continued on Lenticular Limbo for one pitch, before it rejoins the regular route.
So I can’t really offer much info on the rest of the climb, but that one pitch was excellent. Clean cracks and corners. In my opinion, I think it’s even better (more sustained) than the lower stretches of the regular route.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 15, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
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This might help.
A picture of that section of the wall:
In the picture below, the red line is a route I did in 1980: Pajamarama, 5.10a/b.
The green line depicts where I think Lenticular Limbo goes.
Perhaps Mayfield will pipe in and draw the line for us.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 15, 2008 - 10:56pm PT
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Whenever I've been up there, I'm amazed that there aren't more routes on that thing. (perhaps there are, and like tarbuster's, folks don't know)
Seems like there potential even to the top around to the left outside this image
Peace
karl
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Double D
climber
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Jul 15, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Peter's partner, if I remember, was Scott Grafton. They both told me about the route shortly after doing it and it sounded really cool. I'm somewhat surprised that it hasn't had a stream of traffic on it from what I heard about the quality. I'm sure Peter will post up soon.
Nice photos BTW!
Mr. Grafton coming into and emerging out of Keyhole Pass from a trans-Sierra ski trip so long ago.
Ceciel Graffo, if you're lurking out there fess up!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 16, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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August 1980, on my birthday, Scott Grafton and I went up on The Harding Route of Mt. Conness. Mayfield had loaned us his 7 mm trail line. As I was heading up the offwidth, it started to hail. By the time I did the traverse right into the next crack system, there was 6 inches of hail on the ledge at my feet and lightning striking the cauldron all around our backs.
With the help of that 7 mil we got down in about 15 minutes. Once out at the parking lot at Saddlebag, we found Fiddler and Keating barbecuing steaks from Claude's ranch in Auburn, which they graciously shared with us.
I know Scott went to medical school. He liked riding road bikes, was technical minded and very sociable.
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Double D
climber
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Jul 17, 2008 - 03:46pm PT
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Bump for details from Maysho (or Maynotsho!)
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Double D
climber
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Jul 18, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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Maynotsho?
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 18, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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Showing up finally! I am in the middle of the busiest three weeks I have ever had, 220 kids for multi-day programs over 24 days. I am producing and guiding every day and night, and the crux is tomorrow and Saturday with 145 9th graders in the house, 11 guides in the field each day.
Scott Grafton and I did it 1980, spitting precip on and off for most of the route, full blizzard on the last pitch and for the hike down. We were super stoked and thought the route was real quality, especially since it joins right before the best part of the classic route, and adds three 5.10 pitches to get there. We originally called it Tugboat Annie, but then I decided that the fine route was deserving of a name with more gravitas, and changed it. Scott went on to a career as a leading neurology researcher, still gets out for occasional forays with Claude Fiddler.
I think Tarbuster's photo shows it right, Karl Baba's shots are from a bit too far right to show the opening pitch.
First pitch involved going up the prominent corner then, traversing out left to double cracks on the arete. With the pro technology of 1980, the opening moves on the arete seemed a bit stout and sporty, like you might rip a piece and slam back into the corner. Probably not too bad with the newfangled stuff. 2nd pitch had some 4th class, then a short bit of 10a finger crack. 3rd was cool, a thin crack to the right side of the flake below the "Ear" of the regular route, then your onto the awesome regular route summit pitches.
Hope you get-er-done Impaler, and let us know how you like it!
Peter
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Double D
climber
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Jul 18, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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Thanks Peter (Didsho!) If you or Claude have access to Scott's contact info (or any one else for that matter) please email it to me. I'd love to touch bases with him again.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Topo drawn after climbing route on June 25. Ratings as we found them. Your mileage may vary. Semi serious route, there are more than a few sections where blowing it will leave you hurting.
A couple things to consider:
-Don't traverse too low on first pitch. There is a thin seam higher up that you take over. Otherwise it is pretty grainy climbing very high above gear. I can imagine climbing this on 1980 gear being interesting.
-There is a major death flake in the middle of the double cracks. it dropped down a couple inches when i touched it. Should have trundled, but didn't.
-Thin (00 and 0 C3s protect the last pitch before meeting up with the regular route. Pretty heads up climbing, no fall terrain for sure.
Good route, you are stoked when you make it up to the regular route and can turn the high focus level down a bit.
Here are a couple more pics.
Also, does anyone know the source of the many new bolts on The One That Almost Got Away? Looks to be bolted as a free climb, the old topo shoes A2+ and only 2 or 3 bolts... Looks kinda good!
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Damn! I forgot about that one when I moved away from California shortly after starting this thread... Thanks for the info and sweet pictures, Hoots. I want to get on it all over again now!
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Jun 29, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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Here is a reply from Alois Smrz regarding the bolts on The One That Almost Got Away:
Hi Ryan,
I have been told about it. It is not my doing and nobody asked me if it would be ok to bolt it. No one came forward to say I did it, either. Wimps! I don't agree with it, but I'm too old to go up there to chop it all. We did not place any bolts on the FA, used knifeblades only. At the start of the headweall pitch, there was one existing bad spinner bolt and one hole which we assumed were partly drilled by the Lenticular Limbo guys on their FA (the two routes meet at this point, just one spot). Pretty sad, this was a very good mini-wall in a wonderful alpine setting, not a sport climb. Sorry, I'm an old school, I think it is unethical to alter someone's existing route, especially since there is a reasonable knifeblade seam all the way on that pitch. We tried to make it harder on ourselves during the FA, not easier. I would hope people respect what we tried to do and leave it be.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jun 29, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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another perspective
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!