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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:02am PT
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La Sportiva :
Dao Rosa- first shoes-2resoles-1pr
Viper-bouldering and smearing-1resole1pr
Cobra-fer every thing-1resole(never again)-5pr
Mythos-for long rock climbs, soo good , my first pair tore because of my bunion, good thing I went back as these things are great , tey did rip under the 2nd resole , not too durable-1resole-2pr
Venom-best shoe ever for moderate to thin sized cracks, bouldering training, very steep, slabs, vertical, and comfortable these are ssoooogood-1pr
Syncros-edging why did you ever stop making them-2.5 resoles(last one killed em)-1pr
Aero-coverage on the toes-1pr
Mojo-crap, good fer like 2 months than they start rolling up on you under the big toe-1pr and never again
Muiras-nice fer sport climbing and power routes-one resole (never again)-2to3(?)pr
Climb high board lasted pink thing, high top -gave em away-1pr
Boreal Ninja-gave em away, piss poor-1pr
FIve ten:
Ascent-brand new like em in the gym need to get out with em , seem super sweet and comfy.-1pr
Coyote-not yet climbed in em fit nicely-1pr
winning the favorite award is Venom (still gotta try the 5.10 shoes) thanks Jedi for helping me reach outside of La Sportiva!!!!
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:31am PT
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The Venom is cheaper and really good!!!!!!
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:40am PT
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I did hear that hammering the hell out of some board lasted shoes worked , i would immagine the microwave would condense the rubber cells????????>>>>>>>........!!!!!!!!
Hey, does being up this late and chatting on supertopos make me a loser????
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 03:45am PT
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RR's - terrible shoe for everything except standing in slings and edging
Chouinards (?) - pre-sticky rubber... post_EB...ok shoe
Fires - nice at the time, fit feels like wearing boats now
Kaukulator - great shoe for the Valley, high top to protect ankles, still have a pair to resole
Dominators, pre-sportclimbing model, I liked these very much, fell apart though
Newton - my favorite outdoor shoe, fit for long long climbs, hold up well, funky though
Mythos - my other favorite outdoor shoe, especially thin cracks, face and slab, these don't hold up so well for me
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:51am PT
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Woodson would be a great spot to go, especially with a new pair of Venoms!!! Ok seriously these shoes are great , but the 5.10 ascent may take the all day shoe if it out performs the mythos.
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 04:22am PT
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What is the Mojave about???
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:38am PT
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Definitely the ole "SYNCROS." I agree why did they stop making a great shoe???
Have tried on the Testarossa, but just like the car, who can afford such an expensive shoe? Seems like a real high end shoe.
The Kaulkalators are great comfy all around shoes. I could literrally wear mine all day climbing.
I have narrow small feet and teh La Sportivas fit far supperior to any others so far.
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Gunkie
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:45am PT
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1986 pair of original LaSportiva Machiers (sp?). I still have the shoes and use them as wall boots now. I think they've had four resoles.
Early morning coffee wearing the shoes on Big Sandy Ledge, Half Dome:
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:48am PT
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First pair of shoes were those God-awful Boreal LaBambas. Man, they were heinous - so stiff, so uncomfortable. They did not edge, smear of do anything well. I gave them away after about two months. I feel sorry for the person who got them.
After that awful experience, I learned then that I have La Sportiva feet...
Viper-bouldering, sport, and smearing- owned many, many pair and wept when they chaged from the asym toe box when bringing out the new generation Cobras.
Cobra-bouldering, sport, and smearing-After a while, my foot reshaped to the asym toe box and now I love these for everything - except multipitch trad- I have owned countless number of these.
Katanas-bouldering, sport, and smearing- love these shoes too - i currently owe three pairs (why? I don't know, just keep collecting all of these shoes). I'm tempted to say they are my favorite pair.
Muiras-bouldering and hard sport - great shoes too - so great someone stole my last pair. bastards. I have one pair of these left I've not worn - saving them for hard day. Plus,I've been too lazy to tie up my shoes. The slippers and velcro are the way of the lazy person (me). Their nickname is the "hotrods."
The only shoes I have that are not La Sportiva are the 5.10 diamonds and sapphires. The Mythos heel was just too big and the shoe farts were unbearable even when trying them on. As much as I hate anything made specifically for women, these shoes are great for all day trad routes. Good for smearing. I do hate the new color gaggy green and instead preferred the black. I own three pair. I know there is a new 'female' mythos but I've not tried it on yet.
An interesting question is why I own 18 pair of climbing shoes?? Does everyone own a ton of these? Some of my shoes I've not even worn yet - just hoarding them or something.
I fear trying on the Venoms (though I lust) and the female Mythos because I know I'll get them too. After reading this, I may have to try them on.....
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:03am PT
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Gunkie, I too still own and use a pair of 1987 vintage La Sportiva Mariacher's, with a 5.10 Stealth rubber re-sole. Great trad shoes.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:04am PT
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La Sportiva Mythos - My first pair of shoes. And I think I'm on my 5th pair by now. Once they're worn in, comfy enough to wear all day. Good enough to climb up through low 5.10. Awesome.
La Sportiva Miuras - My first pair of cambered shoes. For sport or long hard routes, these things are like nothing else I've ever tried. Not so great for jamming routes, tho.
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wildone
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:42am PT
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I had the ascents, and I loved the shoes but the leather in the toe area stretched way out on me. I would have loved it if those shoes laced to the toe!
My current shoes are synchros. Bought them from a guy who only climbed in them once in a gym. Perfect fit, 40 bucks!
Time to get a resole, though. I want to keep them around as long as I can.
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Ben Wah
Social climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 12:02pm PT
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Tuolumne,
I'm surprised one of the resident ST scientists hasn't yet pointed out that a microwave works by causing the water molecules in whatever is placed within to vibrate, thus heating things up. Since shoes contain very little water at all, nuking them will do nothing but possibly ruin your microwave.
If you were to put them in a conventional oven, the glue would be softened long before the rubber, and they would simply de-laminate. The only cure for bad rubber is to take the shoes to Josh for a week, where rubber doesn't matter, wear through it, and resole them with something decent.
Happy climbing
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Feb 25, 2005 - 12:09pm PT
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first pair: Boreal Equinoxes- these are decent beginner shoes, been resoled once and have been relegated to sport climbing and gym use only. they still fit great though- didnt stretch at all.
second pair: 5.10 Huecos- love these shoes- great for all day trad- been resoled once, are due for another, but i'm not sure they'll survive it, not sure if the new Huecos are any good so i'm shopping around a bit.
third pair: Evolv Docons- my funny shaped feet wont allow me to wear any cool power shoes, so these 'gym' shoes are my power shoe. They fit my feet perfectly and perform well for everything except smearing. Use 'em exclusively for trad cragging at my limit.
fourth pair: i'm strongly considering using my REI dividend on a pair of Mythos- tried 'em on the other day and they fit great, which is a rarity with my feet.....
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Tom Bruskotter
Trad climber
Seattle
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Feb 25, 2005 - 12:35pm PT
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La Sportiva fan here. I have several sizes of each depending on how long I plan to be in them.
Mega: Good granite shoe. Protect feet in long cracks. Bigger size for walls - aid/free.
Mythos: I love these for slabs and fun sport. I'm big so avoid foot jams with these. They're famous for stretching.
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
Boald'r Effin See Oh
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:03pm PT
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I like them Kankaroos with the little zip pocket on the side. You could fit a whole routes worth o' chalk in there.
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wildone
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:20pm PT
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I wonder waht kind of shoes BURT BRONSON wears? Do you think he climbs barefoot like other notable hardmen? Does he need special rockshoes due to lack of toes from all those alpine routes? Curious.
I wonder if they even make them in his size. I heard he's 7'11", 647 pounds.
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ct
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:37pm PT
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Good thread. After trying out all the different shoes and finidng my favorites, I always like seeing what shoes work for other people. Writing all this out, it seem hard to believe I've actually owned so many damn shoes. I take heart knowing that I have paid full retail for my shoes on less than 5 occasions. Here are the ones that come to mind...
La Sportiva - My foot is definitely also a 'Sportiva foot,' although not all models fit me well.
Mythos: 1st and 2nd shoes I ever owned. Great multi-trad shoe, 'nuff said.
Kakuklator: Good stiffer hightop shoe, hasn't seen it around in some years now. Got some good use out of this as a beginner, keep them around because of the high top protection. Will get them resoled at some point.
Bamba: Yep, Crimpergirl got this one down, they sucked.
Flash: That stupid white bouldering shoe. I think they might still be making these. They sucked about as much as the Bambas. Perhaps more. These are still sitting, used only about 10 times, in my closet. That's where they will stay.
Vipers: Also a good shoe, although when I had a pair of these I didn't know how to use my feet well enough to take advantage of them. Haven't really gotten into the Cobras so much, tended more towards the Katanas.
Miura: Good shoe, like the last, but prefer the velcro fit of the Katana.
Katana: My absolute fav. Fits like a dream, smears, edges, good camber, great for steep stuff and hard bouldering. Best heel-hooking shoe I've ever had. I've gone through over 10 pairs of these in the last 3 years. My problem with this shoe is that it is expensive, and I average about a pair every three months.
5.10
Moccasym: Used a few pairs of these when I started climbing, but feel there are better slippers on the market now. Good when new, not so good once soft and deformed. They do smear like heck though.
Anasazi Velcro: I've had at least 4 pairs of these as well. Good shoe, but I've always had problems with the velcro wearing out. Would rate this a close second or third behind the Katanas.
Dragons: No longer produced I believe. I miss these shoes. The V10 is supposed to be the same last, but the velcro grip on these were really, really good. Very specific use, performed best on steep stuff and hard bouldering, but these were a great, agressive shoe. Hope they bring 'em back at some point.
Southwest: This shoe just didn't perform for me, even though I really wanted it to. I don't know what the thinking behind it was, but the only place it excels is on purely vertical edging routes. It doesn't smear well, it doesn't do well on steep stuff, useless for bouldering, nor does it do well in cracks. I got a pair when they brought them out, and the rubber wore through in about three weeks. The dime edge platform is a good theory, but doesn't work so well in this shoe.
Boreal
Okay, now I definitely do not have a Boreal foot. I know lots of people who swear by Boreal, but putting my heel in these shoes feels like shaking a stick in a trashcan. I think they make some good shoes, but they've just never worked for me that well.
Diablo: Cheap sport slipper. Useless for me.
Pyros: Similar last as the Diablo, but better fit and better performance. Still keep a resoled pair of these around for over-the-water bouldering or soloing.
Ace: Always wanted these to be my trad shoe, my pair just never worked out that well for me. Have heard many, many good things from other folks.
Mad Rock
Flash: Cheap, generic bouldering shoe. Average. Wore out very quickly.
Mugen: More agressive bouldering shoe, worked well, but wore out even faster than the Flash!
Phoenix: Couldn't put these to use. Felt like climbing with boxes on my feet. The thicker rubber decreased sensitivity, and the fit felt loose. Would recommend anybody to the Mythos instead of these clunkers.
Frenzy lace: Going to try these out this year.
Montrail
Zealot: The rubber on these shoes is pretty darn hard. I like the camber and shape, but would really like to have some c4 on them instead of what's on there.
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:06pm PT
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Shoe Onfo
If you are seeking a no longer produced 5.10 shoe check out the 5.10 factory in Redlands CA . They have many no loonger produced shoes racked up and waiting for like the 20 people who know about the killer deal, I believe they are open only on friday.
If you wish to get rid of any shoes sen dem to me as I work in the wilderness program at a therapeutic boarding school and we have like no shoes for the long climbing months, they have tooo many that are my size, they really need like size 8-12 (they have th best selection of size 38muiras and size 38.5 cobras)>. Email me if you are interested.
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:39pm PT
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Nice pic Gunkster
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