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Roman
Trad climber
DC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2008 - 11:03am PT
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I am looking to climb the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya but would like to know when my best chances for NOT running into a crowd would be. Is it crowded mid-week?
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Roman
Trad climber
DC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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Oh I should've mentioned.... I am looking to fly out late Aug / Sept.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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By the way this will be my first route (and time visiting) Tuolumne or Yosemite in general for that matter. I have been training on the granite up in New Hampshire to get more used to the stone as it is way different from the quartzite that I am used to. I think it will be a great time.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 24, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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Great route. We did it last August on a Tuesday and there was a party way high on it by the time we got going (afternoon). We opted for a more "interesting" finish so didn't catch them, but, we did pick up a double set of nuts that they'd trundled down just about all the lower pitches (helped keep us on route).
Climbs really fast. Fun fun fun.
You might play around on some of the shorter easier routes on Lambert or Stately Pleasure prior to embarking on that long a multi pitch if you aren't dialed into the scene there.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jun 24, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
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"...there are a huge variety of options, so passing is easy."
the route is a 5.2 ramp
(i 1st did it after only a few years of climbing, in running shoes, and w/ a light pack on)
if you are roping up for it, YOU are the crowded part of it.
if you are having any trouble passing anyone, YOU are the crowded part of it.
seems unlikely to be an issue on a weekend or a weekday.
it's said to be "crowded" because nobody ever ran up it before it was supertopo-ed.
west crack is crowded.
the reg, on FV is crowded
CP is crowded.
tenaya peak is a dayhike, even if you hump a rope.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Jun 24, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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On Saturday I met a trio of climbers who headed up to the base thinking they could circumvent the snow patches but a considerable amount of water was pouring down the route and they decided against climbing it.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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My god paddling up Whitehorse is a blast. I did Wavelength (5.8) 2 weeks ago. So much fun. I moved to Boston from DC to get closer to the granite while staying on the east coast. I am so happy with the decision.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 24, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
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You guys will have a blast on Tenaya, even if it is crowded. Blue sky and sunshine on a thousand feet of cruiser stone in an unbelievable setting. Can't beat it. I usually hate crowds but man, on a route like that, take some time and say hi to people, learn their names and where they're from, enjoy the company, share some food. There is plenty of rock to share up there. There are always attitude spewing self proclaimed hardmen to deal with, but if they are so hard they shouldn't be on that route. Don't bother with those dudes. Here's a shot from last summer. Enjoy.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 24, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
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Tenaya is fun fun fun fun!
I am NOT hardcore... basically a 5.7 leader, and I don't solo. Yet, I soloed the first 7 pitches (most solo the first 5 w/o even realizing it, many solo the entire thing), then simul-climbed the rest, and only pitched out the last 30 ft crack at the top. We passed several parties on the way up, and there were multiple passing options, everybody was friendly and happy. Its basically a half day climb... goes fast (less than 3 hours base -> summit, unless you nap and lunch on the way).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 24, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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easy to see it from the east coast apparently.
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reddirt
climber
subarwu
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Jun 24, 2008 - 04:59pm PT
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I am looking to fly out late Aug / Sept
awesome time of year (after Labor day = even better)
very solo-able, although I started out in approach shoes & quickly switched to rock shoes. I stayed a little too far left on the way up & luckily someone was able to throw me a bight of rope for 5? ft of it. Turns out another guy I know did the same thing.
(getting your mind into slab mode first helps).
After topping out I was told not to turn rt too quickly for the descent... so I overshot the "exit" & it was no big deal...
"crowded" on the west coast is very different than the definition of crowded climbs back east.
have fun!!!!!
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reddirt
climber
subarwu
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Jun 24, 2008 - 05:02pm PT
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btw Roman, (since You were in DC) the texture is just like the granite slabs at Old Rag
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Gene
climber
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Jun 24, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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The climb is a blast. If it's too crowded, see Micronut's comments above. Another option is to stop at one of the larger ledges and take a nap. Worked for me.
This one is about FUN and location & not about a tick on your resume.
GM
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jun 24, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
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any climbs been done in that huge steep blocky amphatheater to the climbers left (east)?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 24, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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A few pictures of the route:
Long shot from top of SPD.
Solo up, put on shoes.
Somewhere around p8 break out the rope.
Fun slab!
Corner variation.
Finish straight up...
Fun!
-Brian in SLC
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Gene
climber
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Jun 24, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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You mean over here, Matt?
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Jun 24, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
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Brian in SLC, what are you carrying in that big orange bacpack, just curious...
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jun 24, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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yeah-
pro'ly a bit loose in there tho', judging by the carpet.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 24, 2008 - 07:33pm PT
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You guys have talked me into it, sounds like a kick in the arse! I have long loved the peak never thought about the route. Sometime, this summer, I am there!
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Gene
climber
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Jun 24, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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Good on ya, JLad. Take that pretty daughter of yours with you. It is a fun climb in a gorgeous position.
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