Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 20, 2008 - 10:56pm PT
|
ElCap Report 6/20/08
By Tom Evans
Yo. Was it nice today or what? A lovely day with a nice breeze and clear skies. There was some activity on the wall to keep track of and Tourons to explain things to. Sadly, some of the bridge rats have taken to giving out stupid answers to Touron questions. Stuff like…”The park service puts the portaledges up on the climbs for you if you call in for reservations.” It was kind of funny at first but it just makes things harder for me, as I have to explain that the rats are just joking around… after a time it gets Very old. Plus some of the rats have very limited vocabularies and make use of vulgarities even with children around. Not good. Also the rap music with the “progressive lyrics” is not so enjoyable to most people who come by. So if you happen by please try not to be offensive in manner and speech.
Today, however, the Colorado Girls, Joy and Sarah were down here and were talking to the Tourons about their recent climb up the Nose. They were really sweet, answering all the questions with honest, straightforward answers. Thanks girls!!
So today’s report is brought to you by the Colorado Girls, who are a real pleasure to have around… so listen up, and put on your reading glasses, because it starts right now…
Today’s ElCap Report…
Zodiac: Well all of the three parties from yesterday have vanished into the either. There remains a Korean party of SIX…yes that’s SIX. They climbed the direct start today and were seen with 3 at the belay at the top of two and one on the lead sporting a nice cheater stick to reach the bolts on the pitch. I suppose they are not as tall as some of the other climbers and the stick just may be necessary for them. The other two in the party were on the deck with the bags ready to haul.. Sometime… maybe… in the future.
Tribal Rite: Well my man Douglas, a.k.a. Ottawa Doug, knocked off two pitches today and should be on the nice ledge just below the Carrot pitch as I write this. I have been getting some nice shots from my secret spot near MPB that scan across the wall and get the sky in them. Sweet! If only I could get the moon to appear there! Anyway I talked to Doug early this afternoon after he had finished leading a pitch and he is still on schedule and enjoying the climbing. He has plenty of food and water and is in excellent spirits so wife, and kids… worry not… your man is just fine and I watch and talk to him daily.
Doug navigating the huge wall on the South Buttress of El Capitan
Doug reaching high in the thin air of Tribal Rite
Doug about to get the cooling shade this afternoon on Tribal Rite
Nose: Nice stuff to see today. Lee Cossey and his partner Jake, from Australia, threw down a 6:45 on sight of the route. Pretty impressive for climbers who have never been on the route. They were off the top by 12:15pm and had lunch here at the bridge!
Jake cleaning the Great Roof while Lee starts the Pancake Flake in deep shade
The other NIAD team was the Colorado team of Mike and Steve, who are the climbing partners of the Colorado Girls. Turns out that Steve and Sarah are NOT married, but just climbing partners for this trip… sorry about the misinformation in previous posts. Anyway, Steve and Mike were already on the pitch to the Boot when I arrived and had passed the Great Roof by about 12:45pm. So they should be off by now. Nice shirts for the camera too!
Mike and Steve short fix on their NIAD
Steve getting big air on the King Swing
Mike cleaning in the Gray Bands.. Notice the abandoned or perhaps dropped rope left of Mike
Lower down a team of two managed to pass Steve Schneider and friend in the lower Stove Legs when they outflanked Steve by doing the standard pendulum and landing just above him. He had done the free traverse and fixed a few days ago. But Steve was not to be denied and quickly came off the belay and breezed past them to a belay above. He also made Dolt Tower well before them but has decided to stay the night there. So the guys will most likely pass them again on their way to ECT. But, Steve is doing the Jardine in the morning so will most likely pass them as they go to do the King Swing. But they may be able to pass him in the Gray Bands as they have smaller bags… plus… well you get the picture!
Party does Stoveleg pendulum to get a jump on Steves team.
Not to be outdone, Steve climbs past the pendulum party.
Out West: I didn’t get out West today as it was getting late and I had some other things to do. But there is a party on the lower Muir and at least one on Lurking Fear. I will try to get out there tomorrow.
In other news: It seems the exodus is beginning. Hayden and two others are heading back to Colorado and there seems to be a lack of interest in wall climbing as has been expressed in the café in the mornings. The weather will be getting hotter soon and that always thins out the wall rats. If not for Ottawa Doug and the Nose record attempt I would be tempted to put away the scope and close down my production office for the Report. But Doug is a good friend and I wouldn’t think of leaving him without someone to contact his family with daily reports since his cell phone is out. So I am hanging on here. The light is getting worse every day and ElCap photography is not very satisfying this time of year. The shots are just not that good with the sun so high in the sky. I really look forward to October when every day is a pleasure to work in.
Hayden and Dude 2 did get the LT done yesterday before the sun got on them and reported some really nice free climbing on that outrageously steep West Face route.
The Australians are leaving tomorrow, and the camp in general is getting more Touron, and less climber, oriented.
Today's Bridge Rats. Standing: BMD Jake, Autumn, Aaron, Matt, Jake, Lee, Thia(?), Dude 2 (Corbin) Seated: Mara, Hayden, Amanda
So that’s the way it is for this the 20th of June 2008.
Later ECP’s
|
|
Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2008 - 11:19pm PT
|
Looks like a fungus has grown on BMD's face?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
|
Hey now Tommy,
Don't, like, be putting away your kit too soon, eh? RumoUr has it that there might be a Hoser and his crustacean and partner taking cenTRe stage in the next few days, right in front of the bridge. Watch us sizzle on the black rock.
And Doctette from Ottawa, if you're, like, reading this, eh? I've got a cell phone and a radio, so maybe we can hook up a live conversation for you next week with Doug once we're on the wall. I can relay you to him via my cell phone and radio - I've done it before, and it will indeed work, so email me yer phone number and we'll get it sussed. He and I exchanged a "cry of the loon" a la Bob and Doug McKenzie this afternoon as we were walking down, and I could see him ensconced on his portaledge.
Looking at my Mctopo now, I am almost certain that he is at the top of 4, which is just below the Carrot. I could see him standing on the [rock] ledge to the left of his portaledge. And what's with this Two Pitches Per Day stuff? Sheesh.
Cheers and beers,
Pete
P.S. The relay will cost him.... you'll have to tell him I have a HUGE box of ratty old MEC gear coming his way. [Did he tell you about that, Doctette?] Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!
P.P.S. And you'll have to tell him I owe him dinner and beers - BIG TIME!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
|
Go Doug Go!!!!
Tom--great stuff as usual.
We're gonna miss you when you go away until
October. Your reports have been awesome, especially
for those of us stuck in cubicles and going to school!!!!
Thanks mucho!
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2008 - 01:37am PT
|
SteveW says it all...thanks for the great artistic work. lrl
|
|
Elyse
Gym climber
Ottawa, Ontario
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2008 - 09:24am PT
|
To Doug;
Hey Dad!
Your rockin' it out there -
I'm impressed!
xox Elyse
|
|
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2008 - 09:45am PT
|
Elyse, your father is "hard as nails" climbing up there all by himself sweety, you should be proud.
|
|
elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2008 - 10:17am PT
|
Elyse... your Dad is one of the great guys of yosemite climbing. He is modest to a fault and generous beyond belief. You can be sure I won't let anything happen to this great guy and good friend. Hope you are enjoying the pictures and commentary. He will be home before you know it.
|
|
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
|
Thanks for the report
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
|
Tom, did you knott write elsewhere that Doug is the Oldest Old Fart to solo El Cap? How old is he, anyway??
|
|
MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
|
Hey Tom,
Thanks for the reports which were inspirational and fun to read. I see what you mean about the degraded photo conditions. I'll be looking forward to your reports in October.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!