Desert tower climbing (aka crimpie gets pummeled) TR

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Crimpergirl

Social climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Original Post - May 26, 2008 - 09:02pm PT

After being in Boulder all of nine days, it was time to head out for a road trip. I'd long heard that Dave loves to climb desert towers - many photos in the house are illustrative of this. I'd not done this sort of climbing, so off we went. I figured – “how different could desert tower climbing really be?” We left Boulder on May 11th and headed west on I-70. Our first stop was the Fisher Towers. This was my introduction to the so-called "soft" sandstone of the west.

Feeling confident (clearly before the desert chewed me up) –

We set up camp and hiked right over to do Ancient Art. This classic climb is four pitches and rises about 400'. The crux pitch is about 10+ or 11a. What is most odd about this tower though is its shape. It's like a shaky-handed giant was playing with silly sand. The crux is stated as a pebble pulling section. It was balancy and fun and cruxy. I was certain I'd rip a pebble out and smack myself in the face knocking out a tooth. All around the pebbles still in the sandstone were holes where pebbles once resided. Happily all my teeth are intact.

To climb the final pitch, one has to walk across a narrow section of rock - a plank of sorts - with about 400' of air beneath them on each side. I confidently approached this section to "walk the plank". And then I stopped. And I stared. The wind was howling. "Go!" I urged myself, but somewhere deep inside, I responded defiantly "HELL NO!" I stood and stared some more.

It grew darker. And windier. The smell of chicken (me) filled the air.

Finally I sat and scooted clawing my way across the cursed plank. Yes, it was mighty undignified, but I didn't want to be dignified anymore. Making it across without the plunge, I turned back to look at Dave. My confidence level was pretty wrecked. Gack.

You’ll notice I’ve posted no proud summit shots of myself here. It’s not because I forgot to get any taken, but rather it is because after 10 minutes (or 4 hours it seemed) I just wouldn't/couldn't do it. Tears welled in my eyes as I said "I, sniff, just, snort, don't want, sniff sniff, do it..." So I retreated with my tail between my cowardly legs.

My first ever desert tower summit and I was denied.

I could still belay though. And Dave could get to the summit. There he stood proudly. 

The next day was cooler and windier than expected. On the list for the day was the mighty Lizard Rock. Lizard Rock is a short one-pitch tower, but fun nonetheless. We cruised up this fun formation. Only later did I look at the back side of this formation and wonder how the hell it was still standing.

After letting Pente the crag cat out, we packed up and headed to Castle Valley.

Our goal was to climb Castleton - a beautiful desert tower. The weather was looking a bit iffy, but it was steadily improving. We finally made the decision to go for it. From the looks of Castleton, I believe the crux is the approach - 1400 to 1500' vertical gain. It felt that way too.

We did the North Chimney climb. It was quite physical - and the sandstone was SOFT! Or stated differently, I am weak.

As we progressed, the wind got worse, and the temperature really dropped. And the wind picked up. And then it started raining. Then hailing. Then snowing. We were really cold and wet by the time we got to the top and needed to hurry down. More than one person has gotten struck by lightning here. Gack again.

Once we returned to camp, we were surprised to see all the fresh snow on the surrounding mountains. Seemed late to Dave to see so much snow.

The next morning, we packed up and headed to Indian Creek. We had hoped to possibly do more in Castle Valley but it was too cold and rainy. We saw three cars in the entire place as we entered. We made a quick stop at Newspaper Rock – very cool!

I can see why so many people really love Indian Creek. It is enormous (it looks like it goes on and on and on) and it is beautiful.

We got up the next morning to perfect weather and decided to climb at the Technicolor Wall. Dave had never been to this wall though he's climbed extensively in Indian Creek. All the Indian Creek walls were new to me so this sounded like fun. We hiked up where no established trails and started at the left end of the wall. We started walking the base stopping to climb and anything that looked interesting.

The first climb we came upon was called Golden Eye. It is a right-facing corner with the crack varying between 1" to 3" or so. The top required a lay-back (which I love). This was a really fun climb and much more my style. Little did I know at the time that this climb in Indian Creek would be my best.

We next wandered down and found a climb called "unnamed". This was quite fun, though a bit wider and much harder for me. I groveled, wiggled, groaned, whimpered and clawed my way to the top. Still, oddly, it was fun. Only a few feet away was another "unnamed" climb. This was an odd chimney thing. The guidebook said it is "more fun than it looks." Hmmm, I thought, this would be fun then. Dave loved it, but holy moly - I thought it was pure grovel-fest type of work. I made a lot of noises I didn't even know I was capable of worming my way up this beast. But to the top I got – a shell of what I once was.

By this time, I was a puddle of goo and decided to stop for the day. I belayed Dave on several additional climbs: Moano, and Matate I believe. They looked fun to try, but I admit that the name "Matate" (kill you in Spanish) sort of got to me. Besides, there is ENDLESS climbing here and I thought I'd better save a little something for the next day.

The following morning it was cooler and windier. We watched all the birds flying up to the camper which acted like a perfect bird blind. A Lark Bunting was busily gathering my hair off the ground to line his/her nest. Given the weather and my level of fitness, we opted for a rest day and hiked over to the Anasazi Indian ruins. This was an amazing place. We climbed up to them (ack my quadriceps!) and hung around admiring them. We continued hiking everywhere seeing birds (e.g., Western Tanager!) and admiring the scenery.

Our sixth day out on the road, we headed back up to the prow of the Technicolor Wall. This was the first day that there was not a lot of wind and the weather seemed to finally stabilize. Happily, we found an actual trail up to the prow which saved us time and energy getting to the climbs. Without the trail, going up was more like two steps up, slide back down one step, repeat. Exhausting.

The first route we found was Carruthers. Dave, as usual, waltzed up the thing. I followed in far less elegant fashion. I made it however. This sort of grunting, groveling, moaning my way to the top continued to be the theme of the Indian Creek portion of the trip. I don't think I've ever worked so hard on any climbs in my life. I felt like vomiting on each one and am really surprised I didn't. Like Dave says, "It's like fun, but different."

Our next climb was called Up 2 top (or something like that). It was yet another wide crack with flaring pods. Are ALL IC cracks a minimum of 4” wide in flaring pods with roofs? After three or four climbs, I was a puddle of goo. I worked so hard on these climbs that when I got to the ground I whimpered a bit. Well, okay, I cried. I had nothing left. Weird experience. I hated it and loved it both.

We walked a bit more and Dave spied what he thought was a 5.10 type of crack so he hopped on. This route (name unknown) was very deceiving and obviously far harder than 5.10. I heard the same noises I'd been making coming out of him. A few were actual words not suitable for print. I'd said the same things many times that day. He made it though. So happy I opted out of this man-eater.

We shifted gears the following morning and moved camp to the base of the Bridger Jack Towers.

We waited for the sun to get in a friendly place and hiked up the most civilized trail I've been on. On this trail was a lizard sitting on a cairn. This was the least skittish lizard I'd ever seen. He posed patiently while Dave took numerous photos of him. In a way, he seemed a bit plain (good for a lizard it seems), but on his belly, he had to electric-blue stripes. Very pretty little guy.

Our first tower was Easter Island. This two-pitch had everything on it that I sucked at. I thrutched and flopped and seized my way up until the summit was mine. Blrack! I thought for sure vomiting was in my very near future. Happily it wasn't.

Why are all cracks wide? And flaring? Why do I suck so much? 11 years of climbing and it's like I've no skills.

After that pummeling I felt I needed more self-abuse, so we got ready to go up Sunflower Tower. As we prepared to climb, we watched a helicopter land at the Cat Wall. As I stated, Dave’s climbed extensively at IC and he’s never seen a chopper before. We knew something very bad had likely happened over there. We learned later that a man from Utah decked from 60'. Tragic. I still wonder how he is.

Not surprisingly, I worked hard on SunFlower Tower. I actually thought it was a better climb than the last one. Pitch two was gorgeous. It was hard, but my failings were due to my own weakness/lameness. This pitch did not require any thrashing though I thrashed just the same.

Still, we summited. Both summits were pretty with the six-shooters in clear view. Plus, the White-Throated Swifts were really zooming us which was quite fun.

We rapped down on the worst friggin' anchor I have ever seen in my life. It had sun-faded webbing, with three hollow aluminum rings. Upon inspection, we could see that one of the rings was worn through leaving sharp metal edges. I hope other climbers check those out as well.

So far, I've used a lot of words to convey my Desert Tower climbing experience. I laugh at my earlier thoughts of “how different could it really be?” Because I think a picture is worth a thousand words, I drew a sketch when we returned to the camper. This really captures it I think.

The next morning we left IC and headed to Arches National Park. I’d not been here before. We first hiked to Delicate Arch. It was hot - about 101 degrees! I’m not complaining though – I still remembered vividly being on Castleton FREEZING. The hike to Delicate Arch was nice and the views there quite beautiful. There were many cool features just begging us to crawl into, on and over.

After a while, we hiked back out because we wanted to climb the mighty Owl Rock - the most often climbed tower in Arches. The first ascent was done by our very own Piton Ron. We estimate (given the feel of the rock) that we bagged the millionth ascent or so.

We summited this fun little tower to the delight of passing tourists. While I was on top of Owl Rock, a man in a car was jumping up and down trying to get me to wave so he could take a photo. Meanwhile, I could also hear someone else exclaiming "It's a GIRL up there!!!"

The next day, we played in Arches as well. We drove into the park and headed to the Landscape Arch parking area. It was packed. And it was Monday. Does anyone work anymore? We hiked to the arch which was spectacular. It is amazing it hasn't crumbled totally. I loved the sign that showed how a huge chunk of it fell on Sept 1, 1990 (or 1991?). That would have been amazing to see. Then we continued on for the "difficult and technical" hike through the desert where we saw several other arches, beautiful flowers, birds and other assorted things. There were also many bright red super-sun-burned tourists staggering around looking like they were going to expire at any moment.

After a short break, we headed into the Fiery Furnace to hike through the wacky maze of desert sandstone towers. We clearly are gluttons for punishment given the temps. In the fiery furnace, there was a lot scrambling, finding dead-ends, climbing and poison ivy. And contrary to the name of the place, it was actually pleasant temperature-wise.

After a while, we found our way out of the furnace and drove to the Colorado National Monument. We would spend the next day, our last day, the desert tour 2008 here climbing the infamous Otto's Route. This is a 450' tall route on Independence Monument in the park. It has such an interesting history.

Dave first climbed this route 24 years ago. Of course, it'd be my first. The first ascentionist spent who knows how much time in the early 1900s drilling holes by hand and then pounding pipes into them. Using this fixed gear, Otto summited in 1911. He wanted to fly an enormous U.S. flag on the top so the folks of Fruita (nearby town) could see. Even with these drilled holes (many of which are now filled in and all pipes are gone) it was mind-boggling that he did this work. He was a daring man for sure.

We had a great time climbing the tower. We spent a fair amount of time on the summit admiring the view. Plus, there were beautiful desert cactus blooming which was a treat up there.

Hiking out, we engaged in what is now known as the "Great Hat Debacle". When we stopped on the approach for Dave to snap the photo of me at the base of the tower , I put down my pack and on it, his favorite 20+ year old Boreal baseball cap. When we left, I failed to pick up the hat when we walked to the base. About five minutes later, at the base of the climb, I asked "where's my hat?" Horrified, Dave ran back to where we were and hunted furiously for it. It had disappeared. And that was odd because there was no wind and almost no people around. The hat just couldn't have disappeared like that, but it apparently did.

I lost his favorite hat. I felt awful.

On our way out, we again searched the area for the thing. We looked high (in case someone found it and hooked it in a tree) and low, but it was gone. Baffling. So we started our long hike out while I crafted the letter to Boreal in my head:

Dear Boreal:

I will pay anything to secure a circa-1980s blue Boreal baseball cap with velcro enclosure. It would be a plus if you have one that is seriously sun-faded and has dirt and sweat stains all over it. PLEASE tell me what I can do to acquire such an item.

Yours truly,
Callie

I wondered if I could find one on Craig's list. Or Ebay. Maybe I'd just contact John Bachar and beg. Gack. I couldn't believe I'd lost his prized possession.

About half way out, Dave passed another hiker ambling along. As I approached the hiker, I asked "Did you happen to see a baseball cap?" He said "Yes, what did it say on it?" I responded "Boreal". He said he'd certainly seen the hat, it was (or had once been) dark blue, with a velcro closure and it was WAY OVER THERE. He was pointing to a point that was easily over a mile past where we had stopped to climb.

WTF?

Clearly in the moments between leaving it on the trail, and Dave running back to get it, someone happened by and picked up the hat and carried it INTO the canyon more than a mile before setting in on a rock in the trail for us to magically find.

Any reason for someone doing this escapes us. It was super hot, we were tired, and only about 2.5 miles stood between us and his hat (if it really was there). I sat in the shade of a juniper tree, and Dave RAN all the way back to see if he could find it.

While he was gone, I worried it wouldn't be there. That would suck. Happily, only about what seemed 30 minutes later, he returned with his hat in hand. I'll protect that hat like it's a child from now on.

After cooling off at the truck, we packed up and drove home. It's always nice to leave for a trip, and it's always nice getting home.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

May 26, 2008 - 09:08pm PT

Fabulous!....you aint' in Missouri no more.....Bravo!.......as soon as you get back to Boulder, you'll be planning your next desert trip........

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

May 26, 2008 - 09:20pm PT

You gotta be crazy to climb on that choss, especially that Owl thing.

climber

A place with cats...bare naked cats...

May 26, 2008 - 09:24pm PT

Friggin' hysterical TR Whimpergirl!!!

Let me tell you something, before you pull out another blonde hair: Climbing on soft sandstone the first time is scary to anyone! You're a real champ to keep going for it, even after it whipped your hinny that first day.

Loved all the photos--rock, floral, landscape, and especially that gorgeous crag cat. You and Dave are just too dang cute together, too. I'm still smiling.

Thanks for a wonderful write-up!

Cuz

Double D

climber

May 26, 2008 - 09:27pm PT

Nice TR & photos...sounds like a great time on the soft stuff.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber

valley center, ca

May 26, 2008 - 09:36pm PT

That was fun. Like the way you entered all your pics cause they loaded up really fast on my laptop. Hope I can do my pictures justice next week. I hope to meet you at Facelift, Crimpie girl, have heard only nice things about you on ST.

From, new kid on the block.

John Moosie

climber

Beautiful California

May 26, 2008 - 09:45pm PT

Yippie.. The Crimpie leaves the sout, heads to the nortwest. Goes soutwest, becomes whimpergirl, gack.... but perseveres and goes back to being the crimpster. Only it looks like there was no crimpster climbing done, only thrutching, huckstering, smutching, and all around scrawling. What a fest.

What a happy story Crimpie. I loved the blow by blow, glad you didn't really blow, chunks that is. Looks like Dave has your sense of humor.

Hurray for Crimpie.

MisterE

Social climber

My Inner Nut

May 26, 2008 - 09:47pm PT

Cool TR, Callie..keepin' it realz on the sandstone!

Props! E

F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber

medicated and flat on my back

May 26, 2008 - 09:52pm PT

Looks like both of you had a great time, lots of good climbing in that large area,

Thanks for a good TR with a lot of awesome pic's

Crimpergirl

Social climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2008 - 09:57pm PT

Honestly, I have all new major respect for desert climbers. That stuff is hard!

Glad you guys enjoy the TR. I know I love reading TRs on the taco. They take time, but are so fun to share.

Next trip is already planned - we're heading to the City of Rocks (aka City of Bolts aka City of Jugs) on June 6th. :) Dave said we need to give me a diet of bolts and easy sport climbing so I'll go back to the desert with him! Hahaha!

Raydog

Trad climber

Boulder Colorado

May 26, 2008 - 10:15pm PT

great pics and stuff - really nice - thanks for posting!

happiegrrrl

Trad climber

New York, NY

May 26, 2008 - 10:17pm PT

What a great, descriptive TR. Nice photos too. Looks and sounds like you went to really cool places.

maldaly

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

May 26, 2008 - 10:39pm PT

crimpergirl/whimpergirl.....What an awesome TR. Thanks for the update. Once the desert gets its claws into you you're sunk forever. Welcome to the club.

Mal

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

May 26, 2008 - 10:41pm PT

Gotta love those shades, Crimpie! And I hope you know what
yer readin' there!

Glad you had a wunnerful trip--don't despair, you'll learn to love sandstone!

rockermike

Mountain climber

Berkeley

May 26, 2008 - 11:11pm PT

Great TR.

But do I see some mega "chipping" in one of those photos. What are the standards coming to these days. ha

philo

Trad climber

boulder, co.

May 26, 2008 - 11:30pm PT

Really fun TR crimpie. I love the crag cat. Yes desert crack climbing is like fun... only different. Once you hone the pure crack technique it will be less of a grunt fest.
I do have one question though. In your pic #33 is that by chance a renegade breast saying howdy, or is it just my over wishful imagination?

Did I make you look?