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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 1, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
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The essence of any wall climber is to persevere.
(adapted from Seneca)
"This is how it feels to be alive!" I think out loud on the shuttle bus back to camp, slumping exhausted next to the huge backpack filled with ropes and gear. Chelsea and I just completed our first (very small) big wall climb: Spaceshot (grade IV, 5.6 C2) in Zion NP. And I promise myself that next time, I swear, I will train for this. And I'm gently reminded that I said the exact same thing back in October when we bailed off Leaning Tower. And did nothing.
So this is how it went. We practiced on Organasm (4-pitch 5.8 C2), where it became apparent that it takes me 3 hours to lead 100ft (if that) of straightforward aid. Maybe it has something to do with posing for hero shots like this:
(photo by Chelsea. Thank you Moof for the excellent Russian aiders!)
But it's truly amazing to me. I feel focused and efficient, and I'm constantly doing something, yet I look up and the sun is setting and I'm only half-way up. There's something about aid climbing, the way a clueless gumby does it, that warps time.
Then we went to the real thing. Team Gumby Giggles ready for the 7am shuttle bus:
After much thrashing with the haulbag on the free pitches, it was my turn to lead p4. The flaring seam after the bolt ladder (cheater stick!) took lots of small offset nuts, sometimes sideways, and a few very good cams (#1, aliens). I screw around on a less-than-perfect nut too much, and zip! down I go, maybe 12-15 feet. Going back up, the bad adrenaline catches up with me a few feet higher, when I seem unable to reach any more placements, and give up on the lead. We sleep on the ledge on top of p3 (which is a good bivy site for two if one person goes slightly lower).
Seeing how I'm out of shape, slow, and falling on C1, at that point I give over all the leads to Chelsea. My penance for not training for our adventure is to whimper and jug, curse and fiddle with stuck nuts, and trust my life to a fixed line for the entire day.
(picture by Chelsea)
On the plus side, I get to hang out with two locals at the belays. Darren and Andrew, if you're reading this, send me an email and I'll send you some photos of Andrew. Nice meeting you.
Chelsea dispatches the leads one by one with determination and style, here on p8 (the Spaceshot):
We top out in the dark and sleep on top, after the 3rd class scramble. At that point, it's pretty much flat ground and a good bivy for 3, you don't even need to tie in anymore. The next day, it's a few hours of making love to the pig on rappel (less pleasant than it sounds) and we're back on the shuttle bus.
Views of Zion:
and from Spaceshot:
The tiny guidebook for Zion has many neat features, but complains about the shuttle buses. I respectfully disagree. They're awesome! I particularly enjoyed being a local attraction and answering questions such as "how much does your luggage weigh?" and "are you rock climbers?".
Big thank you to Scott, the backcountry desk ranger who gave us lots of info even though he introduced extra doubt into our minds with his tales of big falls and bailing.
Summary of lessons learned:
1) Get in physical shape
2) Take several bags for the poop tube so you don't have to re-open the one that's already been used
3) It's all about having the right gear
4) I really like long, moderate, FREE climbs! :-)
More photos here: http://people.csail.mit.edu/paulina/pics/2008/04_zion_apr/
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Thanks for the TR, nice work, sorry about the bags. (Not as sorry as you, I'm sure).
As a noob I tried to convince my (also noob but more experienced) partner that we should do Spaceshot while we were in Zion one May. Already hot as hell. There had just been a memorable article or blurb in Climbing or R&I about the route. My observation that "it's only 5.6 with a little clean aid" thankfully fell on deaf ears.
Bill
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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excellent, although you sound kinda bummed. You guys did top out, good job! Keep at it.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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I'm leaving to jump on spaceshot tomorrow. Thanks for good vibes.
-Greg
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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Greg, good luck! You'll love it!
Bluering, I'm not bummed at all, I'm pretty psyched that we did it. It's just that it brought out all the best (giggling perseverance) and worst (slow gumbitude) in us.
That, and I realize now you're really not supposed to haul this route, but do it in a day. Well... we couldn't have done that at our current speeds.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Space Shot has the unfortunate combination of an easy rating and substantial commitment with more exposure than most expect.
Hint;
it is better (less scary) to lead the final ladder than follow.
Hope the placements are holding up.
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Beutiful TR. Makes me homesick.
I agree with you about the shuttle. It can be a PITA but it's better than the six month traffic jam before the shuttle system. And everyone on the shuttle thinks you're a bad ass just for having those "clipper thingies" with you.
edit:
Yeah Ron especially if you follow that last pitch in the dark with visions of the rope sawing in half above you - not that I'd know about that.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Piton Ron, when was that article published I referred to above? I remember mentioned you and had your pic too.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Nice!
(Hey Kartch, grow a pair why dontcha????)
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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The essence of any wall climber is to persevere.
(adapted from Seneca)
Could also be said the essence of any wall climber is perverse.
Nice tr! Lots of free climbers bag on the wall rats, figuring any one could aid up a wall no big deal. What is underestimated is the massive amount of work dealing with the weight of the rack, bivvy gear, et al.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Well done you two.
Sounds like it was a grand adventure.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Uh ,.. Bill, you got me.
Which article?
In Pursuit of the Golden Dawn, R&I Oct. '87???
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Great TR Paulina! Nice photos, too. Glad you had a giggly grumbly good time. :-)
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Ezra
Trad climber
WA, NC
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Nice job and Sweet pics!
-e
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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you go girls! great pics!
First wall is the hardest one to get the mind around, but you polished it off!
CHEERS!
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Pewf
climber
nederland
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It sounds and looks like you had a wonderful time up there.
Great work, ladies!
Amanda
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tokyo bill
Social climber
tokyo
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Well done, Paulina!
Coming back to Japan some day? I need an aid teacher...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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good one Paulina and Chelsea, the whole idea is to go out and do it! whatever happens next is part of the adventure....
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Thank you everyone for the encouragement.
Ron, didn't you put up that route? Thank you, it's a beauty! I think there are placements left on it too :).
Bill, I wish!
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Yaro
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Girls, you rock... and very cute! :)
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