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dirtbagaaron
Trad climber
el cap dreamin'
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2005 - 04:25pm PT
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cruxes would be the zig-zags, higbee hedral and the face near the top correct? any beta on any of these?
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Jan 30, 2005 - 05:31pm PT
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Be really, really strong.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 31, 2005 - 07:11pm PT
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Actually most of the Zig Zags are 5.10 or easier. But there's a super thin section on the 2nd one (I think, but may be wrong--that's been 25 years ago) that is nasty hard. Higby dihedral is just a tricky corner (short) and the last pitch is hard slab bouldering for several body lengths. But this route is no classic in my book. Just too chossy.
JL
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Jan 31, 2005 - 07:19pm PT
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You heard it first here on Supertacos! Largo says the Reggae is a chosspile! Comments? ;-)
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 31, 2005 - 07:36pm PT
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I wouldn't call it a chosspile, but I like it up there for the position and the rock formation at least as much as climbing itself.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Let me rephrase that: Half Dome is a classic formation with a divine view. But the first half of the Reg route is pretty beat up and flakey and low angled--like a route in the Sierras or the North Face of Tahquitz--and not till you get to Big Sandy does the angle kick up and the rock get clean--and then it's only a few hours to the top. Thank God Ledge is an all time pitch (I had traversed it, and actually know of nobody who has foot traversed the whole thing), but after that it's basically over save for a few cranker slab moves or easy aid moves. So if you boiled down the whole route to prime footage, you'd have a great 4 or 5 pitch route. You can have the rest of it. But of course you have to do it--it's Half Dome for Christ's sakes.
JL
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Yeah, if anybody out there's walked Thank God, they best spray about it now. I, like everyone, went up there determined to saunter across and ended up handtraversing, although I demeaned myself horribly with a bit of crawling in between. Don't crawl, peeps. When you got to get down--and you do have to get down, when the wall bulges--just go straight to hands.
I may have to go back up there...
Who's walked it?
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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I, for one, chose to crawl like a little baby.
Mostly because I ran out of rope and was caught in a hanging belay in a Whillans harness just short of the ledge, and couldn't feel my freaking legs for a bit...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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half and half for me. hell I was looking for that sweet spot that gives you props for standing up as long as you did, but felt ohhh so sweet when you dropped down and sunk your hands into those sinker jams behind the ledge.
But I'm with Largo, as a route to remember for the climbing and not the position, there's only a few places that standout.
BUT, it's friggin Half (rubble) Dome for christ's sake and must be climbed by some route or another, other then the cables or Snakedike to say you've actually climbed the thing. At least to me
Cheers
Pat
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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"Yeah, if anybody out there's walked Thank God, they best spray about it now. I, like everyone, went up there determined to saunter across and ended up handtraversing, although I demeaned myself horribly with a bit of crawling in between. Don't crawl, peeps. When you got to get down--and you do have to get down, when the wall bulges--just go straight to hands."
Well, I watched my partner walk it. Which gave me some added determination to walk it. But I crawled and hand traversed anyway.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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I had heard the stories that it had been walked, and was psyched to try, but, groveled on hands and knee. My partner tried it with a pack on and failed to walk it as well. It was like a bizarre limbo contest at the end of a long day...
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I thought that most people walked it... Interesting, I think my friend was messing with me when he told me to walk it. I had to take my camelback off, and placing gear made me appreciate yoga. My wife followed me and tried to walk it, but she was so tired that she ignored my advice to take the camelback off and she whipped. Unfortunately she sprained her ankle a little which didn't help for the descent... :(
Edit: My favorite part was that you had to have your toes on the ledge so that your heels could be as far out as possible for balance. Very intimidating!!!
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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"It was like a bizarre limbo contest at the end of a long day..."
Nice image!
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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i actually didn't know anything specific about TG ledge before i went up there and it never even occurred to me to walk the whole thing (damn!). my partner just told me the pitch was mine becaus eit had a short wide section on it, so i walked most of it and then i just layed my right leg and hip on it, hanging my left leg off, and slid about 6 feet before i stood back up.
afterward i sent some jpegs to a friend, who promptly informed me i'd have to go back up and clean it up (at 1st i thought he was joking).
a few of my friends have walked it, i'm told it's really more heady than hard to do.
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Southern Man
climber
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When I got to TGL I crawled on my hands and knees like a reptile or is that an amphibian, whatever, I groveled. I had a great time on the route w/ my son (close encounter w/ bears, snowed the night we bivyed on Big Sandy, etc.) last June as our first wall. Since the consensus is that most of the route is less than spectacular, I can't wait to do the more classic big wall routes w/ him.
Does anyone have suggestions in Yos. for the next step up from Half Dome? Lurking Fear?, Nose?, T. Trip?
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Southern Man,
My first wall was NWFHD years ago. Due to the fact that it isn't very aid intensive, I did the Grade V circuit (Prow, WFLT, etc) in preparation for my first real wall which was Zodiac. I would really recommend you dial in your aid on a grade V before hitting El Cap. Zodiac was great!
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Southern Man
climber
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Cracko:
Thanks for the info. The RNWF did have alot of free climbing on it. One of the reasons it was so much fun. Ditto on the grade V and aid prep.
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Rob
climber
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How about some photos of the ledge?!
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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Brick-
That's the best overall picture I've seen of TGL from above. You can clearly see the narrow section.
BTW, I hand-traversed/crawled across that thing for the most unasthetic crossing of Thank God Ledge ever.
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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i walked part of it...
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