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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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I am looking for any information or where I can get information on the free routes that go up Clouds Rest (5.10?) and GP Apron (5.10?). I remember hearing that there were 2 good, but not often done routes around 5.10 that go up these two formations. I am looking for any and all information that anyone has about these routes. My partner and I are looking to do them. Additionally, if any one else has any good tips on stellar 5.9/10/11 long free routes in and around the valley beyond the standards, I would like that info as well. Someone told me of a really good 10.11 that goes up Mt Watkins that may have 1 pitch of aid on it (?).
Thanks -
Maezermoo
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kev
climber
CA
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You should be able to find a lot of info and ask much better questions (which will probably get you more and better answers than this one) if you actually search this forum and the web first.
FYI Ropers book has some stuff on CR.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Hey! that is a really nice little www site. Looks like a fun adventure.
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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James: Thanks. The 2 routes i am thinking of i thought were in the upper 20 to 30 pitches in length. Those are the routes I am looking for. Any info on those or am I mistaken. That one looks very nice though. Again, thanks.
kev: Blow me.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"kev: Blow me."
That's pretty damn funny but how might that actually work giv en that Annie-mae is a female moniker.
JL
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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as far as GPA, I'd think you're talkign about Galactic Hitchhiker, which is 42 pitches (I think), in it's original form. It's .11a/b, but mostly .10 or easier with only a couple of crux sections. Karl has some good info about the route.
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kev
climber
CA
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Hiya Anniemae,
As John points out I might be interested if you're cute enough. Seriously I just typed in 'clouds rest' in the Taco search bar,
clicked the FIRST thread, scrolled down to the 7th entry and wow clint had posted the same link that someone gave you.
I wont even bother to google 'rock climbing clouds rest'
Plus the roper book I suggested has descriptions of stuff on CR. Give me a break and don't be so damn lazy. What are you going to ask for next beta on Shuteye Ridge?????
kev
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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hahaha... well, I can understand people asking about Shuteye. There's really not a ton of info out there about anything there. And most of the people doing route development there think it's some sort of secret, which is amusing. They post pics of it all the time and it's painfully obvious it's Shuteye.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Largo... in the ear, in the ear.
Seriously, GH is a damn long Apron route but with the lack of attention in past years I wonder about the quality of anchors, etc.
Clouds Rest is sort of a jewel. It is possible to do some VERY LONG routes up there, and they have been done. That website is quite nice (and one I did not know about previously.) For the most part CR is a haven from topos, beta, rap bolting, etc. Instead, it is a home-away-from-home where exploration and a good day (or two) on the rocks can be had with NO crowds, good rock, unbelievable views and a true summit.
Just sitting in the canyon and looking up at it you will postulate a hundred routes.
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Gene
climber
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You gotta love the detail Roper gives in the Green Guide:
Clouds Rest - Northwest Face
IV, 5.8. Bob Kamps and Bud Couch, July 1963
Little is known about this route except that it wanders up the 4,000-foot, low angle face. By careful routefinding it is possible to avoid using aid.
Clouds Rest - Northwest Ledges
III, 5.5. Dick Long and Jack Davis, August 1952.
From Tenaya Canyon work upward via brush, ledges and occasional class 4 climbing, aiming for a point three-quarters of a mile right of the summit. When about 500 feet below the rim, traverse hundreds of feet to the left along class 2 ledges. Cross a gully (5.5) and continue along easy ledges to the rim.
Both routes sound like great adventures.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Annie-Go down, (or up) tenaya canyon. Look around, and you'll find the beta on how to do so safely. IMO, easier to go down.
When you get to the start of the "Inner Gorge" a "mandatory" (not really) rap from a shelf into a tight gorge, before going down, turn around and look up canyon. There is a giant orangish boulder, totally out of place around the silver gray stuff all over. I think the route you're asking about starts there and goes up for like 2 pitches of 5.9.
I haven't done it, some of my friends have, and they loved it.
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
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"as far as GPA, I'd think you're talkign about Galactic Hitchhiker, which is 42 pitches (I think), in it's original form. It's .11a/b, but mostly .10 or easier with only a couple of crux sections. Karl has some good info about the route. "
That's the one. Thanks!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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You'll find all the Hitchhiker reports and topo in this part of my site
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/TripReportfree.html
The Cloud's rest climb is way, way lighter climbing but routefinding is tougher and that goes quadruple for the approach. Print out the directions on their website.
Anybody going that far down Tenaya Canyon should treat it with respect and leave no trace. It's the untouched heart of Yosemite.
PEace
Karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Long, Hard and Free - 77 routes - 10 or more pitches, 5.11 and harder:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
The anchors on Galactic Hitchhiker are not bad. They are 3/8", but nonstainless. So some are rusting a bit, but there is still a lot of good steel under the rust, I expect.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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AnnieMae, I repeated a route on Bunnel Point some years ago that I highly recommend. Bunnel Point is up Little Yosemite Valley, past Half Dome. It's about 8 miles from the Valley floor (one way).
The route is Golden Bear. It has one definitely 5.10 pitch and several areas of 5.9. But the majority of the climbing in 17 pitches is 5.7 to 5.8. Beautiful location, beautiful, huge slab. I did a topo that I think is quite good. I don't have it here, but I'll try to post it when I get home.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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anyone ever link Favorite Things and Galactic Hitchhiker, in a (long) day?
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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Now that the Shuteye was mentioned I am curious as I haven't been around there yet. Is it a good time to go there right now? Is it mostly snow free? What is good to get on there: the bolted or the gear routes? Thanks and sorry about the drift.
Vlad
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kev
climber
CA
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Yeah the road to Shuteye is snow free for sure by now. It's probably improved to be a high clearance and not a 4x4 drive.
I would suggest anything in Spencer's book given his detailed and accurate approach descriptions.
Snicker....Vlad = Troll
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"I would suggest anything in Spencer's book"
hahaha That's a pretty good troll, all by itself! hahahaha
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