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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 1, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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Hey Coz,
Reading the rop bolt debate, got me to thinking that I'd like to know the history of Southern Belle. As well as see some pics if you have any. Did you ever write any sort of TR on it?
Thanks
Prod.
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Most definitely. I'd love to hear some stories of the climb too! It's right up there with the dreams I have of being able to climb the B-Y. Not that I'll ever be good enough to climb either or get permission from my wife! :) Hahaha
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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If you guys read the story in R&I about Growing Up there is plenty of info on the Southern Belle as well.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Yes please Coz. Southern Belle is an uber proud send and a route I would love to read a TR about.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Me too.
Schultz enlightened me a lot about your climb, and I included as much as I could in the article. But I'd love to hear what it was like for you.
After awhile, getting down the history of the South Face got to be more interesting to me than writing about Growing Up.
And there's more. Who can tell us about Cataclysmic Megasheer (5.11d A2, B Law, E Kohl, 7Y2K)? I've studied the topo and photos of the wall, but after about pitch #8 I'm not sure where it goes. Either of you guys? Anyone else climbed it?
And how about Dreamscape?
Anything else on the South Face? It's been an awfully long dry spell between guidebooks...
Thanks,
Doug
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sure is a lot of stone round back there!
And who doesn't love a thriller anyhow!
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Ahhhhh, Cataclysmic Megasheer. I've been staring at a photo of that climb for years now. I keep trying to talk my buddy into getting on that one but he has more sense than me. That Dike with the Toaster on it looks amazing.
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WBraun
climber
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Coz told me Southern Belle has some pitches that you could die on, way scary sh'it.
Now I've done a fair amount of climbing with coz and if he's saying sh'it like that about a route then I better move to Florida rather than get near that climb.
When we did that new route in the Ribbon Falls amphitheater to the top,(what's it called?). Anyways ....
I lead my pitch to a nice ledge and look at the next pitch while belaying coz up and just freak at what I see. No protection for 35 some feet off that ledge with bone shattering results if your mind is thinking Kansas.
I'm glad it's not my lead as I would have bailed. I'm scared sh'itless belaying coz as he goes for it on those hard sequential moves.
"Southern Belle" .... I'll take the helicopter.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Come on Cozzy!
Tell us a story, please?
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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yes coz, tell the story and bust out the pics!
ks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Okay,
I just got the X Man, that's a new term I believe, on the blower.
So Coz will soon regale us with tales of the Southern Belle.
And to adorn the bump,
Check this photo dating to something like 1990.
Does this look like the guy that would make a death route?
(I think that Werner character must have done evil things to the Coz, ha ha)
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Me and WB did the first ascent of the crack on pitch two...
Remember that old buddy?
Thought I was gonna take the ripper of my life. One of each Friends.... hahaha
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
DC Area (it's as bad as you've heard)
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I re-read the Growing Up article today after sifting through the thread.
DR: Style debate aside, it really was a well-done piece of writing. I always like articles that penji back and forth between background and present tense narrative.
Coz, post up!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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This should be good...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Bump because we should hear about this museum piece.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Bump for me too!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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If I recall correctly, there was an article about Southern Belle in an old Rock & Ice written by Amy (whose last name I forget), Coz's girlfriend at the time. I don't have the issue but it's out there somewhere. There was a nice pic of the 2nd or 3rd pitch.
Folks with scanners & the old issue please post up.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Harder for folks to dream big without those Tales of Power to stoke the fire. How's about a nice burl of that Southern pine to fuel the blaze!
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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bump
(to keep this on page 1)
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