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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2008 - 04:29am PT
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Well, in celebration of my last of 30 days in horizontal hell (in bed recovering from probable spider bite, infection and surgery) I watched Eiger Sanction. Not as bad as I had feared. But boy, ice climbing technique sure has improved in the last 33 years. (I hate to admit the film is that old.)
But I had fun identifying all the equipment I've owned at some point in my climbing career:
grey jumars
chouinard rigid crampons
Galibier Superguide boots
Chouinard piolet
Salewa ice hammer
Whilans harness
Ultimate Thule pack
figure eight rappel device
Dachstein (sp) wool mittens - weren't those fun; with a little red klister wax you could actually hold on to your tools. ha
boys these days just don't know what manhood is all about what with all this new fangled gear cutting the mountains down to human size.
oh yea, it really stung when Clint admits he's 35 and too old to do the north face. damn.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Mar 27, 2008 - 04:32am PT
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Ha the Sanction is an enjoyable movie. For the time I enjoy the movie. Glad to hear you are recovering. Lawrence of Arabia wil take 3 or 4 hours out of you. Heal up!
Aloha,
wil
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 27, 2008 - 06:54am PT
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grey jumars - Check
chouinard rigid crampons - Check
Galibier Superguide boots - Check
Chouinard piolet - Check
Salewa ice hammer - Check
Whilans harness - Check
Ultimate Thule pack - Nope
figure eight rappel device - Check
Dachstein (sp) wool mittens - Check
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Mar 27, 2008 - 07:56am PT
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there are some funny-as-hell lines in that movie.
something about "come here, let me rape you."
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 27, 2008 - 09:29am PT
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"You're limping....."
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AndySan Diego
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 27, 2008 - 09:56am PT
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One of the greatest lines ever.
Euro Climber: "Jonathan, we aren't going to make it"
Clint: "Yes we are"
Euro Climber: "I don't think so. But we shall continue in style!"
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Double D
climber
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Mar 27, 2008 - 10:19am PT
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Mike Hoover once told me the story of the actual filming on the Eiger and during a rockfall episode, he looked over to the camera man next to him and he was decapitated!
The committment that went into that film was way beyond your normal Hollywood venture. It's sorta a Hoover trait I've noticed over the years. He wants the real thing to come through on the screen and takes big risks to do so.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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paraphrased - "the beer's in your pack"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 27, 2008 - 11:03am PT
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Gray Jumars, check (sold to Lechlinski)
Chouinard rigid crampons, check (bought used here in Boulder, resold same venue)
Chouinard Piolet, borrowed (from Shawn Curtis for Mendel couloir)
Chouinard Ultima Thule, borrowed (from Mari for a trip through Canyonland's)
Galibier Super Guides, check (used extensively in Sierra Nevada, sold to a guy named Massioli, who died in Alaska on the moonflower buttress)
Whillans harness, check (took my biggest fall in it; balls are okay!)
Dachstein mitts (God knows were the original pair are; but I have a set in my drawer)
One really coveted piece of gear which we missed that shows in that movie:
The Gore-Tex Marmot Down sweater.
It actually makes some sense out of the waterfall climbing sequence, because Clint's jacket doesn't get soaked. (Even so that is a stretch)
I believe it is in the 1976 issue of Ascent, with George Lowe on North Face of North Twin on the cover, that the movie making process is chronicled.
If I had it I'd scan it and post it up; but I must say since I cannot use my arms at the keyboard and all my scanning functions happen with my toe on the mouse, alas, at 47, I may be too old for the Eiger Nordwand!
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Ted
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Mar 27, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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A British stuntman, David Knowles, was killed by a boulder on the second day of shooting. Clint had been in the same position minutes earlier.
Clint did all his own climbing on location, without resorting to any studio shots or fake backdrops. The only stunt he did not perform was a 2,500 foot drop, for which he used a dummy.
Buy/rent the DVD and there are lots of facts about the movie in the extras section.
If you ever get a chance to go to Switzerland, head up to the Jungfrau region and visit the Kleine Scheidegg hotel. You will feel like you are in the movie. The check-in counter and smoking room are exactly the same (at least they were in 2003).
 Ted
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Eiger_Sanction_(film);
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Mar 27, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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I like when Clint says where's the beer? and the trainer said "in your pack"
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Must be an echo in here.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 27, 2008 - 02:31pm PT
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It's been a while since I watched it, but I recall one interesting continuity error. When Clint takes the big plunge, he's holding his ice axe in his hand. When he comes to a stop, hanging in space, the ice axe is strapped to his pack.
And of course there are the shots of Clint "leading" the desert tower -- with a toprope.
Also interesting from a modern perspective is how sexist the film is.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
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Sexist? You mean George, Jamima, and the dumb blond student all fawning over Clint? Things haven't changed IMHO ha
One thing I'll say, if George (buxom Indian beauty if you haven't seen film) flashed me like that from the top of totem pole I think I could get my weak ass up there too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 27, 2008 - 03:19pm PT
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Karen
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Mar 27, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Have any of you been to the Eiger? A few years ago I traveled to that area, all because of the movie! I was always enthralled with the scenery in the movie, the train to the top, the lodge where they hang out and watch through binoculars.
It was incredible there, however, the lodge with the scopes is all wrong, it is nothing like what is in the movie.
Riding up the train was quite the experience. But what was really cool was upon reaching the top, hiking out through the cave and onto the snow. I decided to hike out to the first mountaineering hut. Oh my gosh! the food was divine and the scenery was unparalled, I don't think there is anywhere in the US to top that place!....The Jungfrau, Monch all had climbers attempting to scale the peaks, how cool it was to be transported so easily up in that awesome mountain setting!!!!
I ended up spending the week in that region, taking the various lifts, gondolas, ect. hiking many more miles than if I would have had to actually climb up!!!! I loved it there.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
a spaceship built for two
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Mar 27, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
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and then they all sparked a doobie and used the gondola cable for a zip line
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Mar 27, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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" http://outside.away.com/outside/magazine/0296/9602fsur.html "
Good link Stich.
I especially liked this part:
Hoover met Johnson in the late 1960s in Yosemite. He was descending a rock-climbing route when he threw down a rope and heard a yelp. It was Johnson, leading a much harder climb, and she was not pleased to have been hit.
"As I went by she totally ignored me and said something to her belayer about how some people are dickheads-- she had a real foul mouth," said Hoover fondly. "I hung on the rope next to her to say I was sorry, but it was like I didn't exist. I was in love."
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 27, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
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classic stuff
me?
grey jumars - Check
chouinard rigid crampons - nope
Galibier Superguide boots - Check
Chouinard piolet - Check
Salewa ice hammer - nope
Whillans harness - nope
Ultimate Thule pack - Check
figure eight rappel device - nope
Dachstein (sp) wool mittens - Check
was looking for the classic pic of Clint
and some of the other cast members posed
w/ Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler after
their ten hour blitz but...
could not find
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