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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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Two of my friends and I did the Shield this past summer. What a spectacular place the headwall is. Does anyone have good shots of it? Want to share?
I'll start.
I took this shot with a little point and shoot at the top of the pitch after the tripple cracks. Great crack. Beautiful day. Long lead. Couldn't ask for more. My two partners are down below on the ledge.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Feb 25, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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Man, that crack is lookin' beat up...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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And that's not even the triple cracks.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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Dale Bard cleaning the triple cracks; circa 197? something.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:25pm PT
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Werner,
the side lighting on that photo really brings out the band of lateral glacial scouring level with the lead one pitch above Mammoth.
Blur your eyes and check it out.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
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Presumptuous to assume that beating it out will allow for EITHER free climbing OR solid pro.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
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Bridwell wanted to put bolt on holds up there to the right, hahaha.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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He would...that Bridwell! Howdy, Werner, how's things?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
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" Presumptuous to assume that beating it out will allow for EITHER free climbing OR solid pro."
Seems to have "worked" all over the valley and elsewhere... Not that I'd advocate speeding up the process, but kinda hard to deny that eventually it will come to be.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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its presumptious to say its presumptious.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
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Ahem...presumptuous, I presume; i.e. Nefarius(above).
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
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I see.
So it becomes a communal project; "chipping by attrition" with plausible deniability for all!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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Hi Captain...or Skully I'm doing good.
But, who am I talking to?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Kaptain Kirk....I left in 99, moved to Boise. I hang out with Cade up here.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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Point is, it's inevitable. To say that the scarring that will happen over the years, as people continue to beat the pitch out, will not lend to free/protectable climbing isn't presumptuous, it would be preposterous.
Take a drive to your local crag, where the proof is in the pudding, so to speak. A significant number of the free lines in the valley were made by aid scarring. But, then again, you, Ron, of all people know that scarring leads to free lines. So, why would you argue this?
And I'm a little too young to be lumped into your "communal project" theory, dude! =) hehe
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
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Hey Kirk all right.
Fukin A good to see ya again.
I had no idea by your avatar.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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Yeah, Cade calls me Skully now, for my Mescalito shenanigan...ah, well.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
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I of all people?
It all sounds like a convenient excuse not to go hammerless.
"I'm not scarring it. I'm making it go FREE!"
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 25, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
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Of course, you of all people. Anytime something of this nature comes up, you're embroiled in it. Not to mention the "constructive" scarring you've done yourself.
Neither here nor there though. For the sake of this argument, scarring is scarring. Regardless of how it happens, it will, eventually, make a route free-able/protect-able. There's no way around that fact. To deny it is just being stubborn and hard-headed.
And, you'll notice I said immediately I wasn't advocating speeding the process up. So, I'd whole-heartedly appreciate you not trying to lump me in with the hammer crowd.
Sheesh!
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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Ok. Things took an argumentative turn in what I had hoped would be a thread with great pictures of a great route. Here's an effort to get us back on track.
Granted, the last two aren't of the headwall, but still fun to look at I think.
Anybody else got stuff to share?
This is my buddy Jeff leading the Groove:
And Here is my bro at the anchor atop pitch 6 (that is, the sixth after mammoth):
This is Jeff leading the traverse pitch immediately preceding the roof pitch:
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