Omega Link Cams: any redeeming value?!?

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
dmitry

Trad climber
Chita, Russia
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2005 - 06:32pm PT
Greetings!

I am entirely baffled by this new cam: does anyone see any redeeming value to them?

Range of two cams in one at the price and weight of two cams?
Forest

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Jan 7, 2005 - 06:33pm PT
I thought it was more like the range of 4 cams, the weight of 1.5 cams and the price of 2 cams. Anyone have the actual specs?
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Jan 8, 2005 - 04:06am PT
Link Cams:
#1- range: .82" - 1.7"
Weight: 6.2oz
Cost: $88.00

#2- range: .98" - 2.0"
Weight: 7.3oz
Cost: $95

in other words, they sport a 2:1 expansion range, which covers about three BD C4's (purple, green, red for the #1, green, red, yellow for the #2), and they only cost about twice as much.

weight wise, they clock in at about the same weight, give or take of the new #3 C4 camalot or the old #2 Camalot.
coldclimb

climber
Wasilla, Alaska
Jan 8, 2005 - 04:10am PT
Neat little gadgets, but GEEZE they're expensive. I've only got eight wee cams to my name, and I only paid for four of them. I doubt that you'll be finding a link cam on my rack unless I manage to booty it. ;) You can make the gadget as cool as you want, but if it costs as much as a few dozen trips to the local crags, I'm not buying.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 8, 2005 - 06:29pm PT
None for me, but then I have a lot of cams already.

It's true that for certain sorts of cracks you could carry fewer cams, but for other kinds of cracks or seams, expecially those that are not deep enough, you will still need the plain jane cams.

They are expensive and specialized.

I think there are more failure modes for this sort of cam than for the traditional cams, and that worries me.

Time will tell, so I'm not rushing out to buy any.
asdfasdf

climber
Jan 8, 2005 - 07:26pm PT
they are going to be most useful for doubling-up. If you already have a set of cams, then the two link cams will serve as an effective back-up for pretty much the whole other set.
dmitry

Trad climber
Chita, Russia
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2005 - 09:33am PT
Just what I was thinking: too specialized and requiring too deep of a placement to use the "smaller range" of the cam. Considering how often one faces a shallow placement, say in a horizontal, I'll pass on these :)
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Jan 11, 2005 - 06:06pm PT
I haven't yet had a close look at these, but I was thinking they might be nice for aid climbing. One on each daisy/aider might cut down on the cluster F.
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
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