Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
Jeff
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2002 - 10:33pm PT
|
I was in the valley this week climbing at Reeds. We got hot and were lookiing for some cooler climbing. We walked to the far end of Reeds (towardst the tunnel)and came upon two bolted sport climbs in this huge chimney system. The bolts looked new and there was a fixed rope hanging off a quicklink off the first bolt off one of the climbs. Does anyone have any info on these? We did the upper, shorter one and it felt like mid 5.11, it was really fun. Thanks.
|
|
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2002 - 10:44am PT
|
I think that Kurt Smith covered those routes (or others nearby) in a recent article in R&I. I don't know for sure, but I seem to remember him talking about some bolted lines with pockets near Reed's...
|
|
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2002 - 12:38pm PT
|
Check the Reid book, from memory I think there are some 12's there... did ya climb chigando?
|
|
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2002 - 12:38pm PT
|
Check the Reid book, from memory I think there are some 12's there... did ya climb chigando?
|
|
Ben
Novice climber
Modesto
|
|
Yeah go do Chingando.... its a great route, 100 feet of fun and more then enogh to teach sport climbers what 10a can feel like. hehehe.....
Ben
|
|
Jeff
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2002 - 05:20pm PT
|
We didn't do Chigando, but we did do Moby Dick Center the day before. I found it to be kind of a struggle near the top-definatly hard for a .10a.
|
|
Bud Hull
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2002 - 07:11pm PT
|
Funny, since the top of Moby Dick Center is 5.9. The 10a is in the first ten feet, which you probably thought wasn't all that bad for a 10a.
|
|
Jeff
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2002 - 10:05pm PT
|
The first 50 or so feet of the climb were rad! Finger, hand and libacking. Then, fist jams to plain groveling and armbars. hard for 5.9. I need to go climb some more offwidths.
|
|
Novice climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2002 - 12:54pm PT
|
Jeff,
I think that the routes in that chimney near Reids are Footprints (5.12b, I think) and Children of the Light (again, I think 5.11b). Both are reportedly good.
Moby Dick Center is another matter. Those fist jams up high had me wishing for the finger locks down low... I didn't know how to fist jam my first time up the climb. A valley local came by, rescued my gear, showed me how to fist jam and how to climb that little OW part just before the final bulge. Glad that you enjoyed another Valley Classic as much as I did.
|
|
Rob
Intermediate climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2002 - 01:30pm PT
|
Pulled a #4 camalot off of Moby Dick a few months back...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!