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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 25, 2007 - 07:19pm PT
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Merry X-mas all!
I found this gem in a June 1976 Summit. The late Michael Reardon's excellent Bachar bio film has some nice segments of Kamps. Been thinking about him. In Seattle we got snow....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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Good stuff , just what I was lookin' for, more or less!
More than less, by a good bit.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 25, 2007 - 11:22pm PT
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Really nice,
I will "always" miss Kamps.
Stoney is just not the same.
AF
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 26, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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I saw Dave Rearick this past October in Boulder at a Royal Robbins slide show. After the show was over, I suggested to Dave that he give a slide show sometime on his climbing accomplishments. His reply was so typical of the very great climbers, "Nobody would be interested. I never really did all that much."
Bruce
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Denver
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Dec 26, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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The Diamond keeps people young in spirit. That was great read. Thanks for posting it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 26, 2007 - 11:07am PT
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I was tremendously lucky in '75 when Howie Doyle & I spent
three weeks in Colorado--we met Dave Rearick and climbed with
him on Lumpy Ridge--Twin Owl, the Bowel of the Owl. Oh, Howie
screamed in that squeeze chimley. Dave was using his chocks made from wood of the Osage Orange tree. I dunno if I'd want to
fall on one of those, but pretty neat anyway. We really need
to get Dave to do a slide show. That would be awesome!!!
BTW, we got about 8" of the white stuff in Denver yesterday,
and might get 2-4" tomorrow--certainly better than the feet of
it we received last year!!!!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 27, 2007 - 09:10am PT
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That post-Diamond parade photo in Estes is a classic.
Oli has been ST's connection to the 60s Colorado scene -- I hope he comes back with more stories.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2007 - 12:37pm PT
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The thread is in the water.........
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 27, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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Now this was one hard core climber!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Nice shot of Bob, Anastasia. Need a little En Vogue, "What a Man", playing in the background.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2008 - 12:55pm PT
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Name this Stoney Point regular?!?
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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This time, he's in Muir Trails instead of Cortinas.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Anybody have the picture of Dennis Henneck topping out on the
2nd ascent of NA Wall?
Is it still one of my all-time favorite climbing pictures?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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Keyrekt! Dennis Henneck as shot by Don Lauria courtesy of the 1968 Chouinard catalog.
And boy howdy does he look stud in this RR shot! All bare knuckles and determination at the lip.
From Mountain 41 Jan 1975.
And the nearly art historical hands of Don the Hooker from Galen's Vertical World of Yosemite, 1974.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Great shots of Henneck, but that's not the one I'm thinking of.
B/W, from straight above, no placements visible, windblown,
probably published in Ascent 69 or 71.
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Thanks for posting that Steve.
Here's our friend Roy stemming out the roof on OTH.
edit: yep Roy wrong photo.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Great historical thread so far, thanks people.
(G Boy: that's Over & Out, much easier, while Over the Hill is to the right)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
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Pretty funny belly aching about being over the hill thirty years ago!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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The name "Over the Hill" came about, as a result of my not wanting to climb that day and telling Jim Erickson and Bill Putnam so. They insisted I go with them anyway, and I drug my sorry self out into the sunlight, grumbling that I was over the hill. They wanted to try something new. Very few people had gone up to the Rincon Wall. I had done one of the early repeats of Kor's route there and loved the quality of the rock. I had seen the beautiful dihedrals on the left side of the wall and told my friends I was certain I had some kind of destiny over there, said there was a perfect new route to be done, left of another route I'd done called Aerial Book (another great route, but more difficult free climbing). I thought the 20 minute hike up there might get me out of the catatonic state I was in. Putnam went up to lead the first pitch but, for some reason, backed off, probably not finding the right small nut placements for that first 5.10 move. Then Erickson went up and tried a few times and couldn't quite work out that first crux. I was just along for the ride, mind you, but decided, since they were resting, to go up and have a look. I led the pitch, and they were saying, as I made those moves past the crux, "Over the hill, uh huh." Jim, of course, made a beautiful lead of the second 5.10 dihedral (the short pitch), and Bill led the final classic pitch in good style. The route turned out to be one of those little masterpieces, for its clean rock, beautiful silence, the view of snowy high country to the west, ravens often floating through the sky, or the occasional eagle... It became one of my favorite routes, and I took all my friends to it for many years to come, including Kamps and Rearick, Higgins, Robbins, Chris Jones (boulderer), Breashears, and many others. It's one of those routes you can do truly, when you're over the hill, which I have progressively become, more so each year. It's one of those perfect climbs that makes you realize what climbing is about, at its best. It's not a ferocious testpiece. Hardly. But one can find little ways of expressing precise technique, using small footholds and a variety of techiques, and having to focus at delicate sections... That day with Kamps and Rearick was a day of pure joy. Thanks, Steve, for reminding me of that little haunt of mine up there.
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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It may be small Oli but it packs a punch of great routes.
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