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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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that sissy bolt didn't used to be there, just the garbage can handle. This was on the first route I ever did at the pinnacles as a wee lad.
Tom
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:03pm PT
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tru that! you need quarter inchers to have a true good time. ;)
another convert in the making
be sure to check out the spray at www.mudncrud.com
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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Nice Jody....drc is not a convert in the making we've climbed a lot there.... Its the most fun you can have on crap rock.
Drc and I were talking about doing some bolt replacement out there. who should I talk to about $ support/donations for replacement bolts and hangers.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 18, 2007 - 08:43pm PT
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Hello, my name is Brad and I have a pathetic life.
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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That is funny, I went climbing there for the first time a few weeks ago. We did this dihedral with a crack and some bolts (why are they there?). I got to the top and looked out left and wondered what that junk on the wall was. Maybe that is what I saw. Why is that there. If some one went to the trouble of replacing the bolt with a camo one why leave the handle. I understand if it is the historic aspect of the deal, but still the tree isn't on the Arches anymore either. Its pretty big.
On another note, I really want to do some more climbing on the West side of Pinnacles. If anyone would be willing to go and show me around a bit I would drive or Pay for gas and make some lunch. Honestly, I would just like to do some moderate fun routes. I am a good partner and a safe climber.
Patrick Warren
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:14pm PT
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ask around for this guy called the Feral Rat.
"I don't want to die mommy"
LOL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:14pm PT
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"The Pinnacles blows! Anybody that spends any sort of time there or has spent time there has a pathetic life. Go somewhere with real climbing."
LOL!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
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Scooter, fyi...
"If some one went to the trouble of replacing the bolt with a camo one why leave the handle. I understand if it is the historic aspect of the deal"
that's exactly it, the garage door handle has been there for eons. well maybe not that long, but I do believe it is a FA piece. don't worry clip it, it is solid.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
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Hello, My name is Munge, I have a pathetic life.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:20pm PT
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drc + Kev,
Bruce Hildenbrand and I have a bunch of bolts and hangers from ASCA and ARI that we use for replacement at Pinnacles. Bruce has been keeping careful track of what has been replaced, and we even integrated this info in the FA info in Brad's new guide! If you do some replacement, we should probably coordinate, so that we don't show up at the same climb shortly afterwards and find the work already done. We also try to contact the FA party if they are still active for permission; sometimes they prefer to do the replacement themselves.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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no permission needed from me, in 20 years or whenever the whippersnappers get around to replacing the monster 4 inchers that i put in.
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:38pm PT
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There is no doubt in my mind that the bolt is good. That wasn't my concern. I just think it is a funny opposition to camo the bolt hanger next to a big obvious hunk of metal. Was the handle used 'eons' ago in place of a bolt hanger? Or as a joke? If a bolt hanger, why not use JUST the camo modern one that has already been replaced? No doubt, it probably was pretty dern good at the time it was new with the original 1/4 inchers. If it was done as a joke, then I guess that was the first ascensionist choice.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 09:54pm PT
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Anybody remember/know why there is a garage door/garbage can handle bolted to the rock? I remember as a kid clipping that thing. I now remember that I had trouble with it, and either clipped it off with a chouinard oval, or maybe just slinged it and tied it off, either way that nuetrino in the photo wouldn't make it around the handle.
As for the visual impact of a piece of garbage bolted to a cliff, no one has been so offended enough to cut it off so far.
What's the name of that route anyway?
Tom
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
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The garage door handle is on the second pitch of an excellent climb called Twinkle Toes Traverse on the West Side. It's been there since the early 1970s first ascent. I understand that it was placed as a joke. Subsequent guidebooks have treated it like it was meant to be a joke.
I'll never forget my first ever climbing road trip to Pinnacles (in 1984). We'd bought the (then) new Gagner guidebook which described a garage door handle bolted to the rock! How absurd! We had to go do the route just to see it.
Two things to remember. First, although now days bolting "garbage" to the rock would rightly be considered offensive; a threat to access, and asthetics, the climbing community (especially that at Pinns) in the early 70s was much smaller then. "Impact" type issues were unknown and largely unforseen. Chuck Richards (who did the route) was heavily involved in Pinns climbing then (he wrote the 1974 guidebook). In this context I can accept the handle as once a joke, now a bit of history.
Second is the rebolting. The rebolting was done (I'm pretty sure) by Bruce Hidenbrand under the auspices of the ASCA. Bruce, alone and with Clint has replaced literally hundreds of bolts at Pinnacles. All to my and your benefit. Bruce has a great sense of the history of the place. He's very conscientious in his rebolting. While I admit that the new bolt hanger/garage door handle combo looks a little funky, I'm not sure how else to have rebolted the situation. Two old quarter inch bolts held the handle in place. How to rebolt using two holes a predetermined distance apart, in variable rock, where if either bolt fails the protection is no good? Hard choice. I certainly can't fault the way he solved the problem. Oh, and maybe he used the camo hanger because that was what he had handy? I've done that before myself.
There's my long winded opinion.
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
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Clint, I'll contact you early next year about coordinating on this, I'm off to jtree for a little while. Perhaps Henri might want to get in on the act.
I had considered contacting Greg but figured there was a more local scene for this but if Greg and the ASCA want to help, cool.
As far as the camo hanger goes I bet that was done as a joke or by Mark (guy who was replacing bolts a few years ago and making them uber camo.) The reason i suspect it was a joke is the anchor is shiny and new at the end of P1 so the camo job wasn't done with the rest of it, and I seem to remember the old DIY hangers on it a few years back. Who knows-I am getting old.
To those of you who question why do it there, the response is simple.
1) It's winter and it's an easy day trip
2) I've replaced an old star drivein out there so I know how bad those bolts are.
3) I like to trust the bolts on R routes, if i don't trust em it's more like an X route.
On a side note has anyone climbed the one move wonder '10a' on the right of bad man mezanene? It seemed stiff to us. Shame the rock is so loose for the second half of the new 5.9 up there.
Scotter, email me next year. The west side kicks some muddy ass, as does the high peaks....Much less traffic
kev
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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"The Pinnacles blows! Anybody that spends any sort of time there or has spent time there has a pathetic life. Go somewhere with real climbing."
The Pinns is a beautiful place. The climbing there is a great diversion from the 'norm' and can build up your cojones, dude. Doing that, is not a waste of time.
 ec
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kev
climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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ec,
Jody's just messing around. I think his dad was once a climbing ranger there.....
kev
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:01pm PT
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Oh...
Man. Thinking about rangers, I'm glad I haven't run into that 'gestapo' ranger on the westside in a couple of years. That guy should work in the security housing unit in a prison.
ec
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