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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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Hey guys had a question on Astroman. Im looking to do the climb for the first time this coming summer and feel I have a handle on the crux pitches but I am concernd for the final 10d R pitch. From CMs topo it looks like you exit left and face climb the side of the crack and then move back into it. So my question is how bomber is the placement before moving on the face? and how straight forward is the 10d climbing and how runout is it? I figure ill be a little tired after all those crux pitches. Props to anyone who has sent it. -Colin
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 11, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
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It sucks, but if you get that far, that ain't gonna stop you.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Dec 11, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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I led it a couple times. If you've done well on the rest of the route it will be just plain fun. I could smell the forest on top. Sweet.
Like Jaybro said.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 11, 2007 - 07:46pm PT
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There's an incipient crack off the stance which you follow upward, then an an overlap/undercling feature where you gather your stoke, followed by some snatchy/crunchy(bitd)/edges that you sort of quasy dynamically latch onto to get out of there.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 11, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
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Not to add drama or intimidation, cuz what my shipmates said above is true (you'll just motor over that pitch, as long as you know to punch it where you must, it being a tad tricky), but for good story:
A very accomplished Arizonan guy told me he and his bud lead the whole route to that point on nuts (cams were available but they were psycho purists), only to be turned back on that pitch, where, given their staunch (over the top) ethics, they then rapped the entire route!!!
Dude, if you can boulder V1-V3 without a pad, you can eat that pitch and burp sweetly.
Go git yer ladle in that gravy, while its HOT.
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bob
climber
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Dec 11, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
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Above is all true. Speaking of hot, do you really want to do that thing in the summer. Unless of course you just start at Noon or late, even then.....greaser. That route is awsome.
My bud and I started up to that thing in the way AM in May and ended up having to go back to Res 4 and play vids until noon to wait for the sun to duck away from the Enduro. Why did we go back down? I not only had two different shoes, but I had two left feet. FUG!!!!!!! I praise Jake for allowing us this mishap. I believe he spent no more than 5 minutes on any pitch he lead so we were up well before dark.,
Have fun bro, and don't sweat that last pitch. I didn't lead it, and I'm no super hard man, but I've definitely done way, WAY worse than that thing on lead and wouldn't think twice about it in the future.
Bob J.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dec 11, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
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Someone should bolt it.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Dec 11, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
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Fine, I will add some bolts.
Juan
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 11, 2007 - 10:49pm PT
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I did the route once, and got that last pitch. It hardly even registers in memory, compared to all the good climbing below. If you've free-climbed to that point, you'll have no issues.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 11, 2007 - 11:04pm PT
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Here is the pro, from one of the times my friends Erik and Mei did it in 2005. I think they liked the route - they did it again the next weekend....
http://climbermei.smugmug.com/gallery/855907/2/38518930#P-1-9
P.S. On p11, if it feels too sketchy on the face out to the right, you do have the option to safely aid up the corner on TCUs.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Dec 11, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
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I have an article from a really old rock and ice or climbing that has beta for every move.
Should I post it?
Where did those guys learn to place gear?
Juan
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2007 - 12:48am PT
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Thanks guys, exactly what I wanted. The mountain projects page has some good beta but if you want to post more I'll take it. I cant wait to get on this thing, I just looked at the new Rock and Ice and saw Alex Honnold soloed it joining the ranks of Petter Croft and Dean Potter. Amazing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 12, 2007 - 10:24am PT
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we did some of it simu,soloed the first pitch and ran various pitches together, so did it in eight pitches and avoided having an 11th pitch, at all.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Dec 12, 2007 - 11:26am PT
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I am not sure what is wrong with that picture, but it does not look right. I clearly remember climbing up to the stance above the second piece there, getting some dubious gear in the undercling thing and then climbing up and around the right from there.
Is that aid gear in the photo? I kind of remember looking over and seeing some fixed heads over that way...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 12, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
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Kris,
I don't think there is anything wrong with the photo (check out the link to see a lot more photos). It was taken from partway up the pitch when Mei was following. Below is another, taken from down at the belay ledge, showing Erik on the stance you are talking about.
Pieces 3, 4 and 5 are in the corner to the left. In the past there have been fixed pins, fixed heads, and fixed bashed hexes there. If you are tall enough, you can reach over and clip/place it. In 2003, my partner was expecting some fixed bashed hexes there, but nothing was fixed. He ended up aiding it in the corner. (I wasn't exactly helping; I had an injured finger and he led every pitch while I jumared!)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Dec 12, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
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I see. Thanks. I thought the first shot was from the belay, and I couldn't put it together.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 12, 2007 - 06:39pm PT
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doesn't look like I remember it either, I think of it as a low angle black lichen slab, copperheads under rocks layed on the ground etc, you don't think my memories have been in any way generalized, do you?
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 12, 2007 - 11:07pm PT
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Yeah, I agree, the first photo seemed totally wrong, like an aid variation way to the left, the second photo looks right, I remember face climbing straight above that tower.
Its been 27 years since the last time I did it and both times (first with Leonard Coyne (78), second with Peter Croft(80), I got to lead the enduro corner and changing corners, and got to follow the last pitch, which was dispensed without much ado by my respective and oh so solid partners. Like they said, if you get your butt up to that pitch in reasonable style, a short bit of not-so-solidly-protected 5.10c is not going to slow you down too much. Hey, I better start training for a personal 30 year anniversary ascent next June! Are you lurking Leonard?
Peter
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Dec 12, 2007 - 11:09pm PT
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