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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2007 - 05:47pm PT
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Forget Tahquitz and JTree, this dusty monochrome playpen must be the heart and soul of SoCal climbing.
But then where's the love on ST?
Brian Bock gets ready, Red Devil.
Tom Quinlan goes for the redpoint, Espresso.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 13, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
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Looks cool Chiloe! It was a bit after my time at Josh so I never got to see the place...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Nov 13, 2007 - 09:03pm PT
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I agree weschrist. I think I went back for a second trip just to make sure my initial impression was correct.
I mean, if bolted sport climbing on chalk-drenched rock in a somewhat ghetto desert setting is your thing, great. Have at it. I'd just rather be hand jamming on some quality crack in beautiful J-Tree any day of the week.
Is New Jack where all the former Williamson climbers go now?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Nov 13, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
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I'm a one timer too. Miniature golf of climbing...
"The heart and soul" of SoCal climbing? That is a depressing thought. Oh, wait! If everyone goes there then my bud's and I get all the good stuff for ourselves. Yes!
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 13, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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Why did those guys bring all their gear to the bouldering sesh?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 13, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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looks like some fun climbing to me!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 13, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
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I've an open mind and have climbed a bit...It looks cool to me I guess.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 13, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
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It's okay for a day here and there.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 13, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Cool shots Steelmonkey, it does look fun!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 13, 2007 - 11:01pm PT
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Didja see the Fish up there in that first shot? :-)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Nov 13, 2007 - 11:30pm PT
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yeah, it sucks. Stay away.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 01:34am PT
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Do I recall correctly that New Jack City once made Climbing magazine's list of the "5 worst crags" in the country?
Others were Boulder Canyon's Sport Park and I forget what else.
With publicity like that, I was keen to visit when the chance arose last month.
From all the fires, the air was heavy with smoke.
I went with a good posse and had a great time.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 14, 2007 - 01:44am PT
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Now if I'm not wrong it was named by Jack (Tripper) Marshall...Must be some pretty stout pulls there I'd imagine.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 14, 2007 - 03:00am PT
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yeah it did make the 5 worst crags list. along with the VRG. What a pile! haha
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Nov 14, 2007 - 03:06am PT
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Next year this is where we will hold sushifest. The place blows. Yeah yeah... the dusty playa is where it's at. We just suck. Don't attend.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 14, 2007 - 03:23am PT
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From pics it looks pretty cosmic as a place...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 14, 2007 - 08:32am PT
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I know Jacks Canyon, AZ was on that list of the five worst crags. Don't recall if New Jack was...
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MisterE
Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
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Nov 14, 2007 - 08:33am PT
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Went there for the first time at JT 'Fest and had a great time. I don't know what all the razzin' is about. The rock quality is dusty and loose in places, but the overall quality is good. Besides, I am a AZ climber, so my motto is:
"Fine climbing for anyone not offended by loose rock"
I think y'all are just spoiled. ;-O
HapEJustToClimb
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 08:43am PT
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Photographer and model, story unknown to me.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:26am PT
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Hey Watusi, did you the FA of 'Pictures at an exhibition'? I fuking love that route. Really unique by Jtree standards, climbing soley on that huge dike. The setting is pretty nice too. I don't think the route sees alot of traffic but I do it every time I go to the park.
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