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drc
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2007 - 10:43pm PT
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Apparently my latest climbing goal is to convince myself that I am not afraid of 5.9
Rate these in order of difficulty(technical for a single pitch)with whatever comments. I've led all but one of these, but I am still nervous about the one I haven't.
Central Pillar of Frenzy - Valley
Open Book - Tahquitz
Phobos - Meadows
Recompense - Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire
Reeds Direct - Valley
Rock Wars - Red River Gorge
The Yawn - Meadows
Cheers
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 31, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
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ones I have lead in increasing level of burl:
Central Pillar of Frenzy - Valley
Phobos - Meadows
Reeds Direct - Valley
been on:
The Yawn - Meadows (probably up there with Reed's Direct)
haven't climbed
Open Book - Tahquitz
Recompense - Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire
Rock Wars - Red River Gorge
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Oct 31, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
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never climbed in the NE.
technical difficulty: (increasing order of diff)
RD-CPoF-RW-Y-P
enduro difficulty:
P-Y-RW-CPoF-RD
proudest tic:
Y
get out & send
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 31, 2007 - 11:57pm PT
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In increasing order of burliness (IMO, and I'm including only the routes I've climbed):
Phobos
Recompense
Frenzy
Rock Wars
Frenzy
Reed's
Reed's is at the top mostly because it's sustained. I've climbed it all styley and clean, and then a week later been stymied into making it annoying and thrutchy.
Recompense is wonderful: a few wiggly wide moves bracketed by clean, beautiful, elegant climbing.
Phobos is slightly burl, but damn straightforward; no real need to get funky. Deimos has a rep for being weirder/wider/burlier but I find it nice and fun. Just find the right place to start!
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Phobos and Deimos...yipe! My buddy calls them Scrotos and Fecos, hahaha.
Apparently this is limited to single pitchers, but there's a little route on Sentinel that has a touch of 5.9 burl too.
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drc
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2007 - 12:49am PT
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Yo, yo
I'm planning to wait on that little route on sentinel till i'm all confident on the ones I mentioned. Thanks all for the beta.
Cheers
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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do them all and you won't be afraid, no more.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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KorBeck is burly. Moreso than frenzy.
Absolutely Free is Burly for 5.9, IMO. Above Frenzy for sure.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Have only done three of those...
Central Pillar - Don't recall that wide pitch being any big deal.
Open Book...nearly died on th the supposed "5.7" on the way up to the wide stuff, but the wide stuff was just fun climbing.
Reed's Direct - Sustained, but not too bad.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Absolutely Free is burly, you can buy a ceder box on the approach alone.
Lava Falls at the Pinns is also a nice 'n' stout 5.9.
Lena's Lieback, anybody find that one attention-getting?
Steck-Salathe, do that and you've got the grade in hand.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Lena's is not too bad. I think La Cosita right is a touch harder.
I need to try Lava Falls. Volcanic Mud anyone?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Post up another vote for the Steck-Salathe. That thing is WAY MO harder than the three off the list that I've done.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Reed's Direct, you mean without doing the crux, right?
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Entrance Exam is burly and as Jaybro said, "That is a serious route". The exit out past the guillotime flake can induce some shrinkage.
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Miwok
climber
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Get on Sea of Holes on Hammer Dome. Best 5.9 slab climb i've been on in a long time.
Nice job Jay!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aplodontia [5.9R] on Power Dome, Courtright will get your attention.
Used to be, Lancelot [5.9] was considered one of the harder nine's in the Valley.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nobody's mentioned the way burly NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral. Far, far hardier than some of the other 5.9s discussed here.
Oops. Nevermind. Just saw Clint's message.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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What's with all you light duty wankers who don't FINISH Reed's Direct?
3rd pitch is the biz, is burlier than anything the OP listed, and goes at about 10a. Those creampuff handcracks on the first couple pitches you couldn't fall out of if you tried. Skipping the 3rd and claiming an ascent is almost as wankeriffic as doing that fairy face climbing around the wide technical crux of the 2nd pitch.
Good call there Fad Dad, the cumulative effects of that one get you.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Used to be, Lancelot [5.9] was considered one of the harder nine's in the Valley.
I certainly turned it into one of the hardest nines when I
climbed it.
Hey, no need to pull punches, Will.
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