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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Oct 25, 2007 - 02:07pm PT
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Kick Assssssssss™
I've always wondered why there ain't stiffs stacked like cordwood at the base of El Cap. Now I know..... the shiiit just ain't that hard.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Oct 25, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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That's some nice action there. What kinda mystery drink was he working.... grey goose & coke?
Love the line, "I'm not good enough" we use a similar one all the time, "flat not good enough". Comes in handy.
Get this guy to the sushi-fest!
~Susan
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 25, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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"Even a fairly incompitant aid climber could do A5."
whatever....
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Oct 25, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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No wonder so many people bail off el cap, must be the boredom setting in on all the A5's.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 25, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
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Russ wrote
"I've always wondered why there ain't stiffs stacked like cordwood at the base of El Cap. Now I know..... the shiiit just ain't that hard."
I haven't read the link yet but it's true that, considering a fall on the hard aid is supposed to hurt, there haven't been that many...
except I did read a scary story of death on some crackpot's web site once.....
;-)
Karl
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Oct 25, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
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rick lovelace was right
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Oct 25, 2007 - 03:51pm PT
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what'd lovelace have to say about it?
I thought the aid climbing rant was pretty funny.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Oct 25, 2007 - 04:14pm PT
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lol.
runout 5.10's are not that hard either. i mean its only 5.10...
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Oct 25, 2007 - 04:25pm PT
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Fvckin great. Gotta love Chris
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 25, 2007 - 04:35pm PT
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Looks like Cochamó Valley down in Chile? If it is, getting rained out comes with the territory, and how much further behind can the boozing and talking sh#t be, just to pass the time.
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Oct 25, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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Karl Wrote about what Russ Wrote :)
"Russ wrote
"I've always wondered why there ain't stiffs stacked like cordwood at the base of El Cap. Now I know..... the shiiit just ain't that hard."
I haven't read the link yet but it's true that, considering a fall on the hard aid is supposed to hurt, there haven't been that many...
except I did read a scary story of death on some crackpot's web site once.....
;-)
Karl "
Me too. I'd have to guess the story is true ??? but maybe the man himself "Russ" can elaborate/clarify then send a link to Chris "Aid ain't hard" Kalous if he wants. Aside from an unbelievable story I can't find anything on the climb, no topo, nothing even on the event.
It sure would back up that A5 is for REAL! Sick.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 25, 2007 - 04:47pm PT
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I know the guy is just spraying after a few drinks, and he probly doesn't take himself too seriously.
but something about his attitude really irks me...
I think his rehearsed rant is just an chance to spray about his own fall on a rurp or A5 climbs or whatever.
the reason you don't see people dying on A5 is that for noobs don't climb A5. Sh#t Ammon nearly died on an A4 pitch two weeks ago! Aid climbing is a skill, and it is hard. It's not the same skill as free climbing, maybe it's more atainable to the common person then 5.14, but so what...it's still a hard skill to attain (not that I have attained it...)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oct 25, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
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You have got to give this guy credit for his creative form of spray. It's the "been there done that" sprayfest. He gets to spray about having done A5, then he gets to make light of it - a fine way to add punch to your spray.
One thing he conveniently omits to mention is that folks get on hard aid, and get right the heck back off when they see what's up. That is the main reason that the Base of El Cap is not litterred with bodies. Most folks got common sense.
Same thing JB says about free soloing. You don't see a lot of people getting killed at it because pretty much anyone who gives it a go and isn't up to it will have an epiphany about 20 feet up. So the same "logic" (read: alchohol induced spray) could be applied to free soloing. Obviously no one is doing anything hard since the death toll is so low compared to the alleged risk.
Hogwash. But entertaining...
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Oct 25, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
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so what we learned here is:
1. if your rained out on a climbing trip
2. your in the presence of other climbers spraying away
3. you've been drinking
no video cameras allowed!
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Oct 25, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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First, Chris clearly has the chops and experience to have a valid opinion here, so I wouldn't be too quick to dismiss it unless I was speaking from experience as well (and A4+, old school not new wave, is as far as I've pushed the boat out, so that's all I'm gonna say about that).
Second, I'm not sure the soloing analogy makes sense Ksolem. Part of Chris' point is that harder aid rating are defined by risk. If I lead every pitch or freesolo every pitch on Astroman, it's still 11c, right? The solo is clearly more impressive, but no one says that the increased risk changes the rating. But if I am aid climbing and do 50 feet of hooking above a fall into space its A3, while if that exact same hooking takes place off the deck or over a ledge, all of a sudden it is A4+. I don't know if that changes your opinion of the video or not, and you, like Chris, are entitled to your opinion as far as I'm concerned.
I thought the video was hella funny and ultimately harmless. Everyone should climb what they like.
Have fun.
Brian
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oct 25, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
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Don't get me wrong, I thought it was hella funny too.
My point about soloing wasn't really to do with grades, but more about why more folks don't die doing it. It's because the willingness to do it is dependant on the ability and the desire. Luckily his thesis that a mediocre aid climber can do hard aid without falling doesn't get tested much.
I loved Chris' rant. But then I think spraying in good style is a worthy art.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 25, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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Interesting ....?
Guys here spraying about a guy spaying in some cell phone type video.
Now is this some California thing that bleeds out into the world?
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Oct 25, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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Ha. Good point Werner.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 25, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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Aid climbing ratings are a stupid farce. They are broken and can't get up.
Aid climbing can be hard and scary suffering. It's just hard to put a number on it, and, unfortunately, due to current state of destructive gear used to aid, the difficulty and danger of aid climbs changes all the time.
It's like trying to put a rating on building a deck on a hill during a snowy thunderstorm without all the tools you'd like. There lots of thinking and suffering, an accident might happen and you might feel like quiting.
Peace
Karl
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