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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2007 - 04:52pm PT
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All this trad talk made me wonder:
Are there any pure trad areas still left? besides Elbsandstein?
Kamps in action.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Sep 22, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
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Dexter Canyon used to be. Just kidding John.
Ken
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JAK
climber
The Souf
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Sep 22, 2007 - 05:28pm PT
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Define "pure trad area"?
I can think of plenty of places that don't cotton to that thurr spurt climbin'.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Sep 22, 2007 - 07:20pm PT
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Bobby K taught me how to climb!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 22, 2007 - 07:29pm PT
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The Gunks comes to mind.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
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Trad is on-sight, ground up (free, aid or mixed)..... Mr. Chicken Skinner!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Sep 22, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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Seneca Rocks comes to mind also
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
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No rap bolting at the Gunks or Seneca?
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Trevor
Big Wall climber
Escondido, CA
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Sep 22, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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Is there any rap-bolting on Tahquitz?
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creetur
climber
CA
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Sep 22, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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I think Paradise Forks in northern AZ has just a single line of bolts (no anchor bolts or shuts anywhere or anything) that no one climbs, on principle--it really pissed the locals off.
but you current arizonians can confirm...maybe something has changed.
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Sep 22, 2007 - 08:45pm PT
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Millbrook!
Romano style. Ground up, always going for it.
no bolts, no fixed anchors. Just Bank Deposits
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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It is my understanding that Seneca is trad in the strictest sense of the word - no rap bolting. In fact, to this day, there continues to be almost no bolts at all!
From page 9 of the Tony Barnes guide titled Seneca: The Climber's Guide:
"A few years ago the Seneca climbing community embraced on the of the strongest no-bolts climbing ethics in the United States. In 1980 there were fewer than ten bolts on the entire cliff:each and everyone of which was hotly debated long before they were placed, on the lead. The American bolting ethics has loosened considerably during the 1980s and early 1990s, but at Seneca their use continues to be sparse."
If you haven't been there, you should go. I've said it before - it's the only climbing I miss since moving away from the DC area. It's wonderful!
John Stannard can speak of this with much greater authority. Or perhaps you can get Tony Barnes or Hunt Prothro to post. They have both posted here before.
Ah... Seneca...
Looking up at Castor and Pollux (and you can see Orange Aid and Alcoa Presents up high)...
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
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The Horn in the Henry Mountains has one rap bolted route. Everything else has been ground up with varying degrees of style depending on the talent and the difficulty. The pocketed nature of the area lends its self to the approach. This and the remoteness of the crag have slowed the pace of development, so there are some challenges still to be had. There's nothing like casting off with you wits and some hooks!
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Sep 22, 2007 - 11:04pm PT
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Since trad means no bolts that clearly rules out Elbsandsteingebirge.
Long live the Grit......
C'mon John lets start another range war.
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stella
climber
cali
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Sep 22, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
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devils lake, wisconsin. not a bolt or fixed anchor in the park.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 23, 2007 - 12:09am PT
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I haven't climbed at Paradise Forks for decades but I would be delighted to learn that the locals have kept to a slim to no additional bolt ethic on the basalt areas. You can toprope any section of basalt around so forcing up heavily bolted routes would really ugly up the place.
The spectacular Reef of Rock in Tucson's Santa Catalina mountains is still predominantly gear routes if I am not mistaken. Always an adventure to be had out there during the warm half of the year and absolutely no competition for routes.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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Speaking of Richie and Seneca
On Terra Firma
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 23, 2007 - 12:36am PT
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"Since trad means no bolts"
horsesh#t, a pure clean climbing ethic says that, not a traditional ethic alone. bolting has been a part of the tradition for centuries.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 23, 2007 - 12:58am PT
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Bolts, we shall always have them with us. But in a misty land far, far away............
From Mountain 42 March / April 1975. True grit!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Sep 23, 2007 - 01:49am PT
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Crimpie and Steve,
I just spent a delightful evening with Jstan, Mighty Hiker, and Khanom. We had dinner together after organizing up coming events. The Facelift has officially been started. Steve, I wish you could make it with you know who. Crimpie I am psyched you are rearranging your schedule to make it. Just to show you,I used to climb before I took on seemingly impossible projects.I will climb again.
Ken
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