Old climber who sucks wants advice on 2nd El Cap Route

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Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic

E.L. "One"

Big Wall climber

Lancaster, California

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 20, 2007 - 03:34pm PT

54 yr old with one El Cap route (Zodiac)under my belt seeking advice on 2nd route, possibly solo. Thanks in advance for your sage advice !!

Cracko

Lambone

Ice climber

Ashland, Or

Sep 20, 2007 - 03:51pm PT

Well, if you really suck, then I wouldn't advise soloing El Cap.

But...if you are just being modest, then I'd suggest soloing Tangerine Trip. It is steep and easy hauling, not too long, moderate grade, little nailing. If you make it through the first 4 pitches then the rest will feel straightforward, if you don't then bailing isn't too hard. Only big thing is that it traverses alot and has some free climbing which may make soloing more exiting. With all the new bolts it is pretty popular, so jump in line.

Or get on something big and stellar like Mescalito.

Maysho

climber

Truckee, CA

Sep 20, 2007 - 04:01pm PT

I think this self deprecating stuff is going too far. Pump up your attitude man! You don't approach the big stone with your tail between your legs, though many slink away from it that way.

Think personals adds, "Studly and spry middle aged crankster seeks advice for bold solo effort on the big stone, sorry ladies, been there done that, now I'm going it alone!"

The Trip is probably a great choice.

Peter

Lambone

Ice climber

Ashland, Or

Sep 20, 2007 - 04:09pm PT

I think the NA would make for a more challenging solo just because of all the funky hauling and traversing all over the place. But definately a 'true adventure' as Mike put it.

I wouldn't want to solo over on the left side just because of the stupid slab hauling. But I'm kind of a wimp like that.

E.L. "One"

Big Wall climber

Lancaster, California

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2007 - 04:14pm PT

Damn Peter!!

Just posted up with that on EHarmony.com. Complete TR to follow.
El Cap will have to wait !!!

Cracko

clustiere

Trad climber

Durango, CO

Sep 21, 2007 - 02:25am PT

Look, if you want to do the trip next week I'll go with you if I can't find work by sunday. Im a reliable partner and I don't bail I am also considering soloing the same route, to be honest I would rather a partner. Good luck either way I live 4 hours away..... Send an email if interested.

I have many partners in their 50s so Im quick with the erection jokes