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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
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From Mountain 25 (Jan 1973) the straight poop from the man himself. Enjoy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nice job Steve!
How is the pin bolt project coming along?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 12:23pm PT
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I was down in the Valley for the 50th anniversary of the Half Dome NW Face and planned on getting to it. It was scorching hot so I pushed the Space Babble project out into Fall when Kevin is more available and you might actually have some fun up there! I gave two prototypes to Ken for the museum but still haven't set one. Stay tuned....
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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The Man.
Fascinating. I read the New Routes section ten times trying to figure out why he said what he said. Could he not see them or just couldn't bear to hand them over to the next generation?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
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I think that it is more a matter of running out of lines that wouldn't involve a lot of holes. You have to keep in mind that none of Royal's FAs on the Captain had more than 13 holes! His failure while soloing on what would become the Tangerine Trip was actually fortunate in that he was spared all of the unsavory drilling that the route entailed. Royal is a complex guy so you have to read between the lines a bit.
In 1983 I arrived in the Valley with no partner and my rack already up on the wall. I sat in the meadow and figured out where all the routes went and more importantly where they didn't. For two weeks I dreamed and came back to a big group campsite just about every evening with the standard "yup, spied another new line" and the grin to match. Needless to say, my campmates were quite skeptical. I saw eight undone lines and climbed three of them.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, Steve. Hugh Burton wrote a similar article in Mountain in 1975 or 1976, essentially covering the "take over" on El Capitan from the old guard to the new wave (Sutton, Burton, Porter, Dunn et al). I haven't yet mastered the art of scanning things from Mountain in a readable format but still reasonable size, but may try.
Robbins et al used 38 bolts on the North American Wall.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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You have to keep in mind that none of Royal's FAs on the Captain had more than 13 holes!
True. But Tissiack (sic) had 110 (?) holes in 2,000 feet...
"Worth bolting for," was I think what RR said.
"All men are hypocrites. The difference is that some admit it. I, myself, do not." -HL Mencken.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
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Anders- I will post that one soon as folks tire of this one. Both are definitive history along with Charles Cole's later survey.
Edit- Like I said, Royal isn't a quick read. Warren said that it all came down to fine points of "callgirl morality." LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2007 - 10:55am PT
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Historical bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2008 - 11:32am PT
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What a great grand bump it is after all!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
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Sep 20, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Historical re-re-bump...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 20, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
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Steve, kudos for your ongoing historical posts. I looked at the Alpinist 25 photo
last night, showing a dense red spiderweb of routes covering El Cap. Seeing that photo, I
vaguely recalled reading Robbins' much different perspective from decades ago --
and here it is, on ST's front page as well.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 20, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
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Good read, thx for posting.
"call-girl morality" Ha... Just spit coffee through my nose!
RR sure changed his tune as time went on. I guess we all do.
gk
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Sep 20, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
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Hey steve, nice post. Any plans to come to Sierras this fall? S. Ayers is coming to town today. It would be great to get some of the Murrys together..... Murry
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2008 - 11:32am PT
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Not going to hit the eastside this season, Mammoth Murry. Next one for sure.
Amazing that some of these threads go south so quick! Folks would rather carry on about sticking their lips on a pig or somesuch brouhaha. LOL
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 21, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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Anders wrote:
"Hugh Burton wrote a similar article in Mountain in 1975 or 1976, essentially covering the "take over" on El Capitan from the old guard to the new wave (Sutton, Burton, Porter, Dunn et al)."
So, right after Sunday morning cartoons are over can we maybe read this one Steve?
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Double D
climber
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Sep 21, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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Steve...that's a great read on historical El Cap and the minds that made it. I especially enjoyed reading Royal's take on Porter's distain for copperheads. I always wondered why he bolted and rivited for miles past so many usable corners.
It was also interesting to read about the "need for speed" in subsequent ascents. By the mid '70's it seems that most wall rats could care less about speed. Bridwell and Schmitz use to always harp about the lack of motivation regarding speed in that era. It's amazing to see how that has come full circle and how fast the records are on routes.
Thanks for the post!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 21, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
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Hmmmm,... "usable"?
Perhaps temporarily exploitable would be a more accurate expression.
Hey Steve, good talking to you last night. Hope the trip goes well.
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Double D
climber
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Sep 21, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
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"temporarily exploitable?" Not in the least! You'd be able to see a fine line of fuzzy wires sticking out after about the 5th ascent. Don't they make micro-prusik spectra for tieing off such mank?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 21, 2008 - 05:54pm PT
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I'm glad to see you're not myopic, merely in denial.
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