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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 22, 2007 - 03:33pm PT
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Somewhere in the old mags from way back when there is a picture of Tim Kudos following one of the pitches on that route.
It has been on my wish list for a long long time.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 22, 2007 - 07:22pm PT
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Perfect photo to go with the story!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 23, 2007 - 01:18am PT
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Well now there's a brave and honest accounting of a good attempt on what really is a special route (Seamstress Corner on Ames Wall). I'm impressed by the author's dedication to respect the spirit of the first ascent. When Tim and I did the climb, we agreed that it would be onsight, nuts where possible, fixed pins where necessary, and bolts only if they were absolutely necessary, all placed on lead without aid.
I think I ended up leading all the pitches, with no falls or hanging. I originally thought the crux was 5.12, but the second ascent thought maybe 11c or d. There were five or six pitches, though, and I think the climb is at least 500' high, not 400'. I have pictures somewhere, and will drag them out when I have time.
Good memories of a good climb with a good partner with whom I shared only a few adventures and have lost touch. Anyone have word of Tim?
-NostalgicJello
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Aug 23, 2007 - 01:29am PT
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sweet !
that belay shot is a pucker-er too...that alien looks like the lobe is creepin out to me...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 23, 2007 - 01:39am PT
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We didn't have aliens back then, Monkey. Wired nuts worked well, though.
-Pre-CambrianJello
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coward
Trad climber
Boulder, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2007 - 10:24am PT
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I'm so glad to get the first-hand info on how the route was established. Thanks, Jello, for responding. My partner and I wondered about whether it was put up with bits of aid or whether those on the FA just started climbing and hung in there, with a straight set of nuts and few pins, hammer dangling. Never having put up an FA myself, I really had no idea.
Now that I know, I am SHOCKED to find out that the route was put up free w/ no falls! Now that is impressive...pounding pitons from pumpy stances. That must have been grim duty. Modern gear surely took a bit of the spice out of the route, for us!
I corrected my description's length and number of pitches. I know lots of people overstate the length of Ames, some even calling it 600 feet tall - but when rapping off of Ames Ice Hose, it's an even 400. But I forgot that Seamstress goes up the biggest and steepest section of the wall, so it is definitely a considerably longer route!
At the base of the route, I found an old straight-sided nut dangling from a tree with a junk biner. I kept this little piece of memorabilia to remind me of the route when we retreated.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 23, 2007 - 11:57am PT
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Hi there, (not a) Coward. I think I recall Tim hanging or falling a couple of times, so our ascent was not without falls. I don't remember the pins being too hard to place, but a couple of the bolts were desperate to get in.
The bolt after the right-ward traverse that held your partner's last fall was especially hard to drill without fully hanging, since the wall overhangs at that point. I got a tiny RP in and had Tim give me just enough tension to keep from falling off, but I supported almost all my weight stemming between two footholds. It was the best I could do, but it was a small taint in an otherwise clean climb, for me.
It would be nice if a team went up to restore the climb. The pins could be tested and replaced if need be, on lead, and the second should pull those old 1/4" bolts and replace them with modern stainless 3/8" gear - there's only a few of them. This would maintain the character of the route without it becoming foolish.
I'm happy you've unearthed this old classic of a bygone era. It deserves to be climbed often.
Best to you, Tristan. Thanks for keeping the faith.
-Jello
EDIT: THAT is a classic photo of your partner with the pin that pulled!
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coward
Trad climber
Boulder, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
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Jello,
As for Tim, he looked like he was doing fine the last time I saw him. I think he's still in Telluride...married...other than that I don't know. He's totally unassuming, but I saw his name many times listed as part of an FA party in guidebooks on dream climbs in Ophir and elsewhere in the area. I didn't get to talk to him about the route, as I only met him in passing, but I was psyched to meet such a nice guy.
Take care,
T
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 25, 2007 - 01:06pm PT
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Ran across this just by sheer happenstance...sort of bizzare how coincidental life is some times.
Anyways, here's the original brief announcement of the route in Climbing Mag.
Never met Tim, but I've climbed some of his routes in the Superstition Mountains, and I'd guess he was pretty good on questionable rock.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 25, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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Here you go, Jello. This should still be good. Saw Tim after a very long time in Canyonlands awhile back. He was doing great with a very nice gal.
GenerallyNostalgicMimi
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 25, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
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Ahhh, Timmy. "The Little Emperor."
Though I haven't met up with him in a few years, he's still Good-to-go, living in Placerville CO (just downhill from T-ride) with his beautiful wife Laura.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 26, 2007 - 01:00am PT
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Thanks for the tips on Tim - Coward, Monkey, Mimi and Slob. It does occur to me that I've seen him a few times over the years. In fact I think I saw him at Charlie and Christine's memorial in Telluride last winter, very briefly among hundreds of people. Funny how we meet up with some fine people (like Tim), share a good climb or two, then drift away, while with others we form long-term partnerships.
I'd say Seamstress Corner with Tim would be among the top 50 or so of my best first ascents of a free rock climb - for the experience we shared and the quality, character and uniqueness of the climbing.
-Jello
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 26, 2007 - 11:32am PT
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Top 50!
I wonder what the rest of the iceberg looks like...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 26, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
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Yeah, care to chip off a wee bit to keep me whisky chilled. Jello's long lost Nifty Fifty, out with it!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 26, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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Ok, this could take a little time to figure out, but might be fun. Lemme start with the top ten, working down:
1- Slovenian Route on Trango Tower with Catherine Destivelle. Although the route had been free-climbed once before, we added a new 9-pitch start that allows me to include it in a list of first ascents. About 30 pitches, VI, 11d or 12a, 1990.
2- Wind, Sand and Stars, Kolob Canyons, Zion with Steve Petro and Lisa Gnade. Catherine Destivelle and I made the first ascent of this beautiful line using some aid the year before, but it was obvious that it could be free-climbed, so I returned with Lisa and Steve. 11 pitches, 12c, 1991.
3- The East Face of Squaretop, Wind Rivers, with Renatto Casorotto. 15 pitches, V, 5.11, 1984.
4- The North Pillar of Putscanturpa Norte, Peru, solo. about 2,000' overall length, V, 5.10, 1983.
5- The West Pillar of Squaretop, Winds, with Greg Lowe and Kent Christensen. About 15 pitches, V, 5.10, 1974.
6- The Northeast Face of Mt Gould, Glacier National Park with Mike Weis. 1,000' of soloing up to 5.8, then about 15 pitches up to 5.10, grade V, 1973. Jack Tackle and Alex Lowe said they found a lot of 5.11 when they made the second ascent, but they must have gotten off-route.
7- The North Face of Warbonnet Peak, Sawtooth Mtns, Idaho with Kevin Swigert. About 10 pithes, IV, 12a, 1980?
8- Risky Business, Rocky Mtn Nat'l Park with Mark Wilford. 9 pitches, no bolts 11c/d, R, 1984. Hard to follow the line now as a bolted route has appeared on top of it.
9- Black Elk, Warbonnet Peak, Winds with Charlie Fowler. about 10 pitches, IV, 11a, 1979.
10- Feather Buttress, Warbonnet Peak, Winds with Charlie Fowler. About 10 pitches, IV, 10+. 1979.
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Ouch!
climber
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Aug 26, 2007 - 07:32pm PT
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Is there a reward being offered for finding Jello's Lost Route?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 26, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
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Here's ten more, some of which have been lost for decades:
11- Simpleton's Pillar, North Face of the Grand Teton, solo. About 2,000', IV, rated 5.9 at the time but probably 5.10, 1972.
12- North Rib of Mt, Slesse, North Cascades with Rob Kiesel. 27 pitches, V, 5.9, 1972.
13- West Face of the Watchman, Zion with Mike Weis. 14 pitches, IV, 5,10 with a 5-foot pendulum, 1972.
14-East Face Center of Wheeler Peak, Nevada with Bruce Roghaar. about 15 pitches, rated III, 5.8 at the time, but probably IV, 5.9, 1970. Good training for the Canadian Rockies.
15- East Face Crescent of Wheeler Peak, Nevada with Greg Lowe. About 15 pitches, IV, 5.9+, 1970. 3-1/2 hours on the first ascent!
16- Sandblaster, Mt Spry, Zion with Mark Wilford. 7 pitches, III, 5.11, 1987.
17- North Face Wetterhorn Peak, Colo with Paul Hogan. 7 pitches, 5.8, 1972.
18- Icarus, Sundance Buttress, Lumpy ridge with Sandy East. 6 pitches, III, 11c/d, 1980.
19- New Music, The Book, Lumpy Ridge with Malcolm Daly. 5 pitches, III, 11c, R, 1986.
20- Wunch's Dihedral, Cynical Pinnacle Colorado with Paul Sibley. Roger Briggs and I both free climbed the final bolt ladder at about the same time. Hard to know who did it first. Great finish to a great climb, though. 4 pitches, III, 11c, 1976.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 26, 2007 - 08:20pm PT
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Here's 10 little gemstones (some definitely hard to find), for a change of pace:
21- Little Finger (aka Penis Rock), Hartman Rocks, CO with Paul Hogan. 40', 5.10 R, 1972. Originally done with one bolt, 4 more have since been added, ruining the opportunity for adventure on a tiny granite tower.
22- Surealistic Pillar Direct, Lover's Leap with Jean Vives. 75 feet, 10a, 1968.
23- Fear of Flying, Enchanted Rock, Texas, with students during a seminar. 80', 10c, 1976.
24- The Ross Route, LCC Utah, with Larry Ross. 1 pitch with a short crux that was led unprotected. A bolt was added later. Rated 11a today, rated 5.9+ when we did it in 1968.
25- Schoolroom Corner on the Schoolroom cliffs, Ogden Utah with Larry Ross. 1 pitch, 5.10, 1967.
26- North Face of the Stiletto, South st Vrain Canyon, CO, with Mark Wilford. 1 pitch, 12c? 1984.
27- Slow Children Playing, South St Vrain with Mark Wilford. 75', 10d, 1984.
28- SE Corner of Little Twin Owls with Randy Joseph? 75', 5.11 R/X, 1985?
29- Sunglow Crack, Bicknell Utah, with John Ruger. 150", 10+/11, 1974.
30- Sugar Fingers on the "Sugar Cube" near Bluff, Utah with Teri Ebel. 40', 11a. The block forming the left half of the crack has since fallen off, so this sweet little crack is no more.
Next we'll go back to longer climbs.
EDIT: Hey, Ouch, that's a good idea! I'll give a reward of $5,000 to the first person to do all 50 climbs I post here. There must be photo documentation, and I must be granted the right to use the photos. The offwidth on the front side of the Sugar Cube can be substituted for the climb that fell off. Don't hassle me for a lot of beta, though - do your homework.
-Jello
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 26, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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What, no Barb??????
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