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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 25, 2004 - 07:59pm PT
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I usually don't spray about my climbs on the internet but this climb seems to justify a trip report. I appologize for poor writing skills but I think you will get the jist of the journey.
Erik Erikson and I had intentions on climbing the Sea of Dreams. So over the first two days after arriving in the valley, we fixed the first three pitches. On the morning we were to blast, we awoke to slightly cooler unstable weather. Both of us having experienced bad weather before on the Captain, (most know Erik’s and Fish’s epic on Native) we became apprehensive about blasting right into unstable weather. We agreed that if we had to wait a day or possible two to blast, we would not have enough time to complete a task as large as the Sea. So we pulled our ropes. Yes we saw “Pass the Pitons Pete” and his partner Tom at the base and probably weren’t real talkative, I mean after all we were bailing, we were not feeling real proud. (Sorry Pete and Tom) After pulling our ropes it seemed the weather that spooked us had cleared. I personally questioned to myself if we should have acted so quickly, but it was done, and we had already picked the new less committing project “Octopussy” so I just focused on that. Ironically what we were initially trying to avoid, would come back around to give us a pretty good beating.
We planed on 5 days, as we left the ground on Monday Oct. 11. Perfect weather allowed us to climb in t-shirts all week. We climbed in true vacation style, not starting to climb to early, as well as not stopping to late. This brought us one pitch below Thanksgiving ledge on Never Never Land (Octopussy joins Never Never Land at pitch 15) on the evening of Saturday Oct. 16. We set up our ledge with no fly, went about our evening routine of eating, drinking and overall just making sure we were Safe. By 11 P.M. that evening the skies had changed. We were now faced with getting out of our sleeping bags and getting the fly put on the ledge. This turns out to be inconvenient struggle, but we pull it off . Then as if on cue it started to rain the minute I climbed in. Erik a veteran of over 40 El Cap routes and with nearly 20 to my credit, we figured we had a rain day ahead us. After all we had seen this type of activity before, specially this time of year, no big deal, right? ( I should back up just a little hear, when we were on the ground I contracted a small splotch of poison oak on my ass. I noticed it as we left the ground, and brought it to Erik’s attention. It wasn’t bad enough for me not to climb, but irritating none the less. )
Well this is the beginning of what everybody is now aware of as a truly brutal storm. Mother nature was really pissed off at something, and we were in her way. The storm packed unrelenting fury for nearly 4 continuous days. I felt like we were in a row boat in the middle of north Atlantic hurricane. We had the best ledge money could buy ,a A5 cliff cabana with a 4 season fly. The fly is more of a tent that encompasses the whole ledge. Even though I truly believe that this system attributed to our survival, more than once Erik and I thought the winds were going shred it apart right in front of our eyes. We had not a single dry item to our name. Everything was wet, we slept in a puddle. It precipitated water the first 2 days and snow the second 2 days. The snow accumulation eventually looked to be about 31/2 feet by the time we got on the summit. Oh Yea remember the oak, well by the second day of the storm in had taken over 50% of my body. My inner thigh’s, my ass, my crotch, stomach area, arms, it even started up my neck. I scratched my ears raw. I would be lying if I said it was anything other than taxing on my brain battling the storm and the oak.
We initially declined any rescue efforts. But with my spreading infestation, no food and no sure deal weather we would make the summit, Erik and I now had to discus the unspeakable, getting help. We new fellow climbers had probably lost their lives, this didn’t sit easy with me. My oak was turning pretty serious so I played devil’s advocate on our decision. It was an emotional, difficult, discussion for both of us. In the evening of Wednesday Oct.20 we agreed to letting YOSAR help us out.
When we woke up on the morning Oct. 21 it was a blue bird day, so the night before was the coldest of them all. Things weren’t wet anymore they were frozen. Once again we questioned our decision to accepting help getting off. We asked the park service the conditions of the 1000’ or so of 4th class slabs we had ahead of us. They were in no shape for any climbing we were assured. We wanted to climb the last technical pitch of the route and have them assist us with the snow loaded slabs above. You know maybe leave us a couple deli sandwiches and beer as well. No way! What were we thinking? The Park service let us know, it was all or nothing. This leads to more heavy debate between Erik and I. We finally fully accepted YOSAR”s services. By about 1 o’clock in the afternoon climbing ranger Lincoln Else repelled to our station and gave us our way out. I want everyone to know, Link is a class act, whoever questions his integrity as a climber or a ranger is an idiot. As I struggled with jugging the 1200’ of fixed line to get off, I was at peace with the fact that I needed assistance getting off the Captain this time.
We had know idea of the media frenzy following the storm and rescues. After the chopper picked us up on top and flew us to the meadow below, one of the helicopter tech’s brought to our attention the 20 or so media vans below. He said “see all those media guys , they all want to talk to you” It was overwhelming and I probably didn’t handle it as well as I should have. One camera got my middle finger. I felt the media was there to sensationalize the unfortunate dismay of our fellow fallen climbers. That bothered the hell out of me. I wasn’t going to feed to that. Thinking back though, probably the adult thing to do would be to at least give a short statement, OH WELL. Everyone I had contact with during this rescue effort was truly concerned about our well being. I questioned in my mind how we would be handled by the park service once at their mercy. Was I going to be charged for this rescue? Was I still going to have hike down? I had know idea what to expect. It was nothing less than first class, Thanks YOSAR Thank you!!! One six pack Micky’s big mouth, One large bag of sun chips $16.32, another six pack Fat Tire Ale $10.50, medium rare tri tip with all the fixing’s and a glass of merlot $45.00,one night stay Yosemite lodge $170.00 Over indulging in your previous days fantasy’s… PRICELESS!!! I think I’ll go surfing for awhile.
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Good Morning!
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Oct 25, 2004 - 08:05pm PT
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"Tom Thompson and Erik Erikson"
NICE! Did you fellas plan this or what??
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 25, 2004 - 08:13pm PT
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Poison Oak really sucks. It plagues me here in So. Oregon.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 26, 2004 - 12:56am PT
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uh... I think that was the (insert neat adjective) trip report I've read on this forum.
I sit here in my sissy home in Flagstaff thinking about all the sheeeit ya'll dealt with this last week. I typed it before and I do it again now... PROUD.
Thanks for that. I read it with intensity. Very neat story. Glad you are around to dish it out!
Cheers!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 26, 2004 - 01:02am PT
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Bloody 'ell - now there's a Ripping Yarn if ever I 'eard one. Thanks for sharing a great report! Brrrr..... I saw you guys up there in the sunshine trying to dry your stuff out. It looked like you had warmth for like an hour only.
Only a pussy would accept a rescue from El Cap, and had it been me up there, I'd've asked for the helicopter flight about three days earlier than you two did - damn straight I would 'ave. Sheesh.
Apart from an extra gallon of calomine lotion and some prescription anti-histamines, is there anything else you guys might do differently next time? I have fortunately never suffered through anything like that, and would love to hear your thoughts on bivying in a storm, stuff to bring, stuff not to bring, what to do and not do, and so on. How long did you manage to remain dry? What were the main problems in keeping the water out? Would there have been any seams you should have sealed? Did you have enough warm clothes? Bivi sacks? Thermarests? A stove? Enough food?
Anything you can teach us all would be much appreciated! Nice job not ending up dead, too, eh?
Cheers,
Pete
P.S. See you, like, next time for a beer, eh?
P.P.S. I was in the North Face outlet store in Berkeley yesterday, and Randy and I bought four or five killer North Face A5 ledge flies for a staggering $25 each. Randy grabbed the Cliff Cabana fly you describe above [it had a $385 price tag on it, I believe] and it's one beefy-ass fly, for sure!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 26, 2004 - 01:29am PT
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whatcho gonna do with dem fine flies? (mispeeeling intended).
I'll give ya $35!...
Do I hear $40!
you biatch! Sweet deal!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 26, 2004 - 01:30am PT
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Heh heh. Talk to Randy [nefarius]. I'm sure he intends to sell some.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2004 - 10:23am PT
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Yea Pete, there were a few things worth mention. The fly is very bomber, but there is a small vent window at the top that leaked really bad, and there is a small tie dowm in the middle of the outside wall for a tent pole (we did not have)that also leaked. Erik cut some water bottles and rigged them to catch the water, it worked well until a gust of wind came along. The tent pole tie down could be fixed with some seam seal, or shoe gue. The vent window I believe is a small design flaw. The sock needs to be longer to keep the drips out. Don't anybody be fooled no mater what you bring or how good of a fly you have "your going to get wet" in a storm of this magnatude. I felt my clothes selection was adaquit. E will bring a full length insolite next time I would bet. I am usually one not to hip on electronics or gadgets, but the two way radios we had were key. will never go without them again (or cell phone) As far as food we planed on 5 or 6 days and spent 11, so we more or less ran out, Wall climbers need to know how to ration. By the way $345 for that cabana fly is a hell of a deal, I understand the fly alone regularly goes for $600+ Thanks for the kind words about taking the rescue, it really was a tuff choice to make.
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Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
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Oct 26, 2004 - 01:39pm PT
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Hey Tom: Thank you for sharing your trip report and good job making a tough decision.
You mention that your clothing selection was good...what did you have on hand? Did you have a bivy sack?
Any tips to share that "made the difference" for you guys up there?
Just trying to learn as much as possible.
Thanks for taking the time. Glad you are safe.
-Kate.
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V
Social climber
Hawi, Hawaii
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Oct 26, 2004 - 06:36pm PT
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Hi Tom,
I'm an old friend of Erik's and I really appreciate the trip report. Nothing like hearing it from the "horse's mouth". I'd been praying for safety for both of you, but especially a peace that passes all understanding. I'm glad to hear you're at peace with your decision and hope that Erik is also. How about a home cooked meal after a surf sessio?? I read your story to my mother and my folks would like to have you over for a treat. They're right across the street from the north end of the San Elijo campground on the corner of San Elijo and Liszt (spanish style wall), Frank and Dora 944-6389. So happy you're still with us.
Aloha nui loa, Vikki (Big Island)
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Oct 26, 2004 - 07:05pm PT
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Tommy, glad to hear you guys are ok. We had the same problem with the vent a few years ago. It should have a longer shroud and/or a stiffener wire in it like Bibler uses. The expansion pole works great when sealed. It gives the guy on the outer edge of the ledge a lot more head room & takes up some slack in the fly so it doesn't flap as bad. I also found it works as a big antenna when I hung my little radio from it! I still feel this is the best fly despite its shortcomings(unless Anker has a better one). For those unfamiliar, the fly is set up 1st(like a tent) then the ledge is put inside. It is not at all convenient, especially if your ledge is already pitched. But it is very sturdy especially in updrafts. We were weightless(two 200lb+ guys) numerous times in the wind and it didn't rip. Eventually though, we had to let the center bed tensioners(divider) loose & let water run out the center grommet as puddles formed. I have since taken a fish bivy sac(dripsac I think it's called)as it has a tie in loop, and I only take synthetic bags, jackets, etc. Down is worthless wet. Hope any of this helps. Also, let me know if you need any help getting your stuff down(or some extra static cord). I'm still not working. Cheers, Chris
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10b4me
Trad climber
Where Fair Oaks meets Altadena
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Oct 26, 2004 - 08:12pm PT
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Glad you survived. I liked the tr.
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Oct 26, 2004 - 10:38pm PT
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The TR was great reading.
Interesting that your account makes the poison ivy sound like the worst part of it. Classic
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Oct 26, 2004 - 10:40pm PT
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The TR was great reading.
Interesting that your account makes the poison ivy sound like the worst part of it. Classic
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Oklahoma Tony
Big Wall climber
Moore,Oklahoma
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Oct 26, 2004 - 11:14pm PT
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Ditto to that!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2004 - 10:09am PT
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Thank's everyone for kind words. It means alot.
V it is a small world eh, I live on Birmingham your parents are just a couple blocks away, I apprciate their's and your offer.
holdplease2 (kate) I had nothing but Capaline, Polargaurd, and Schoeller for threads, all inside of my bomber Bibler bivy sack. Even though I was wet the system worked.
rwedgee Sounds like you have been in a simular situation. Our puddle didn't seem to drain by just letting the tensioners down. We needed to really work at trying to drain the puddle by seperating the vacume lock of water between the bed and fly. Its was nice to be in a doublewide in those winds, we got light many times but didn't get thrown around like I have on a single in the past.(did a winter ascent of ZM back in 90' in a single ledge and the winds took me for the E ticket ride.) Twice as much weight really helped. Thanks for the offer to help retreive our gear. Thats really cool. With a new storm beating CA again, I hope we are able to do it soon.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Oct 27, 2004 - 10:27am PT
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Glad you guys are safe and surfing probably now. Should Ice axes be part of late fall ascents now? SOunds as if you guys were preped with all the right gear, glad to hear it. Many happy future walls to you.
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 27, 2004 - 12:44pm PT
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Tom,
Thanks for the info about your equipment, so we all can learn. I am a little surprised that you needed a Bibler bivy sack inside the cabana. If the main purpose of a bivy sack is to keep you out of the water and wind, and that is also the purpose (in part) of the cabana ledge, I would not have thought of using a bivy inside the ledge. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
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cybele
Big Wall climber
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Oct 27, 2004 - 02:53pm PT
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Erik is reading this thread too, but I am posting as he is not signed in as a supertopo member. His quote is that without the bivy sack you're dead. The bivy sack adds at least 10 degrees of warmth to a bag, and when all is wet, it creates a warmth barrier, almost like a vapor barrier, to keep in your precious body heat. I would agree, too, having made an emergency bivy coming off a West Face LT solo in the same storm...even though the sack couldn't keep me dry in such conditions, it helped the whole system keep me warm.
Other survival gear? Air-activated warmers. I'll never go without them. But get them inside the clothes somewhere (in a bra works great for women) before they get too wet. Getting damp seemed to reduce their effectiveness at least 50%. Emergency calorie rations - some Gu things and the like deep in the haulbag for last-ditch energy. Things not to touch unless emergency. Erik is laughing and proposes less beers more bars. Yeah right we'll see when he packs for the next one. He also suggests a double insulation layer, like two underwear layers. Anyone who doesn't sleep cold like me might not already have this.
Thanks everyone for your supportive words.
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museman
climber
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Oct 27, 2004 - 04:12pm PT
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Tommy and Eric,
I was so glad to hear your voices on E's cell the night you got down. When we first heard that you were held up by storm and only a couple pitches from the top I thought no big deal, just wait it out and be off after a day or two. As the storm intensified so did our worries. I tried to console Tommy's wife Chris about their situation saying that "they're experienced climbers they know what to do." all the time knowing how shitty it can get in a storm. Sh#t, the body fat either one of those f*#kers have is near to nothin'!
I'm just glad my bro's are safe to climb another day, Cuz we love ya and want to enjoy your company in the future. Your Pal, Steve Muse
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