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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 30, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
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It's the mid-80's, my partner and myself decide to do the first pitch of Zodiak as a bit of practice and I eagerly offer to lead.
Was one of the most enjoyable days climbing ever; smooth lead thin clean pieces no worries and sang Zappa songs all day.
But....about half way up the pitch I discovered a small copperhead in situ. Good thing I tested it before cliping it because it came away from the crack with the lightest touch.
So which ever of you sods left a copperhead there in the mid 80's......the momento is still on my key chain. Cheers
What momentos are on your keychain?
How did you aquire them?
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valygrl
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 30, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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I have the bolt hanger off the first bolt of Fine Jade. :!
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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I used to keep my keys on one of the old Chouinard ultralights.
Miss those crabs, I was very disappointed to learn they discontinued them; they seemed ideal.
Wish I'd never given that biner away (to an ungrateful desert female) it was my last.
But I also keep an old threaded small C hex on the chain.
If not for the added bulk, I'd never find them again! ; )
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I guess I always thought it was bad karma to steal bolt hangers from climbs.
ms
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valygrl
climber
Boulder, CO
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Er... ok, i'll tell the story.
I was following the route. Almost finished the crux section, and paused to remove a tight red camalot at the top before you move right. Fell.
Swung around for a while, trying to get back on the route, then managed to obtain the crack. Clipped a draw to that bolt, to rest for a sec and regroup for another try.
Lather rinse repeat.
Second time resting on the bolt (outward pull), the hanger ripped off!
Is that theft?
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Ok, maybe bad style instead of theft!
ms
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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valygrl, actually, you need to be commended for saving the next climber to trust that hanger/bolt. Keep that momento in good conscience.
The nut is a 1/4" er from "The Wedge" unthreaded by hand; someone already snagged the vintage hanger--the rest (sans wedding band) are swag.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Second time resting on the bolt (outward pull), the hanger ripped off!
Is that theft?
No, it's not theft. It's Public Service. If the fixed pro is so rotten it pulls apart with 98 pounds (a guess) hanging on it, it's better to just get rid of it.
I feel sorry for whomever has to pull that threadless bolt later. I was able to hammer the crow's foot of a prybar into a couple like that, and get them out. Others just broke off: new hole, close, so the new hanger now hides my ineptitude.
Hey Klaus: where's PTPP's Wee-Wee crab thing? On your keychain?
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Echo
Trad climber
San Diego, CA.
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My keychain consists of a bottle opener that has the Royal Robbins logo on it (i work in a gear shop, so it was free.) The other interesting piece on my keyring would be the Trango knife that Malcom Daley gave me this past year. Such a cool and inspiring guy!
On the doorknob to my room resides a little plastic monkey with a wire through it that me and my buddy ganked from the piton on the last slab part of the 4th pitch of Fingertrip in Tahquitz. It was placed there by Mike Reardon who we saw free soloing there all day.
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