Questionable pro: place it

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 28, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
http://www.avtraining-admin.org/pubs/Sequential_Failure_in_Lead_Climbing_Falls.pdf

Very nice research, rc guys brought it up.

Bottom line: place that questionable pro if you get a chance.
Rope will recover due to snap back before you hit your next piece and some of the energy will be absorbed reducing impact on the next anchor.

And keep your tie in knot fresh ;)
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jun 28, 2007 - 07:06pm PT
I always wondered about this, thanks for the post.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 28, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
thx G
paganmonkeyboy

Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
Jun 28, 2007 - 07:10pm PT
'well that's not gonna stop me, but it might slow me down before i hit you...' -partner jeremy climbing above a lone black alien
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
Jun 28, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
LOL.

Usually I don't take the black one up.

Now that I know how to handle one...
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jun 28, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
But if the top piece held me once, will it hold me next time too?
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jun 28, 2007 - 10:59pm PT
So "psycolocical protection" is not just for my head? Cool!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 28, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
I was caught on a flying 25 footer by a rurp. Sometimes the pro seems questionable and really isn't

Peace

karl
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jun 29, 2007 - 12:01am PT
Really. I once placed the smallest Spider Cam (green) in a blind, overhanging fingertip layback. I thought it was useless, but at least I felt like I placed SOMETHING. A little bit higher I fell, and lo and behold, it HELD! WOW!

(I didn't feel like going back for seconds, so next try I somehow actually held on.)
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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