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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
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Last night when I met my daughter for the Red Sox vs. A's game she passed off my Alpinist 20 (don't ask about the subscription snafu)...
...wow, this rag gets better and better with every edition...
the Pete Takeda article on Bob Scarpelli was just what I needed to affirm the total insanity of going to Vedauwoo this summer... I can't wait to be skinned like a roasting chicken..
I like this too, it puts things into perspective
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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The Voo!
I'm a rock climber, I sorta skim the mountain profiles sometimes, but I like the mix between big-mountain rad alpinism and American cragger dude.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Do they sell that mag in stores?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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It's a nice one, mine hit the Yos general delivery last week.
Only thing about that Takeda/Scarpelli article (titled "Squat") is that there are no pictures of the route that serves as the title and central focus.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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Jaybro,
Some Borders books, and REIze sell it.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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great article, more about the person than the location.
Two favorite quotes:
"We don't create anything" in reference to his FA's
"I'm going to reduce my antipsychotic medication," he says. I can picture his eyes twinkling. "I'll start halving the dose on Thursday. By Saturday, I'll be angry enough to get up the thing."
edit to add, the famous face at the front will be familiar to some of the regulars here as well:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/faces-jonny-woodward
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Yeah, good read.
Think I will go the way of the Croft.
Hike in, climb everything on Temple Crag and be home for dinner.
Yikes.
Dude does more feet of rock in a day than some will in a season.
Unreal.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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There were some ugly truths there that I didn't think the world was ready for ...
"Mormon youth group leader,"???
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Croft's alpine squid and that dude with no toes take the cake!
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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all I can say is what a great read on Huntington!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Alpinist 20 is very good.
Over memorial day I did some of the traverses near Mt. Haekel Croft mentions in his Sierra article. What a beautifull area. The Point John to Point Wesley traverse is fun too.
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feelio Babar
Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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great article on Johnny.
Agree with Trashman...this quote kicks ass:
"We don't create anything"
...and the following one about climbing not meaning anything...but how we use the things it teaches in our everyday lives that counts.
(sorry couldn't remember the exact quote)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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J-bro...Borders and Marmot in Berkeley.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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"I flash a few grid-bolted routes in annoyed haste, including a 12b that in a distant era would have given my ego a boost. Now I feel there's something lacking: the route is all about finger strength, plastic-trained movement, and sequences determined by a line of bolts, not natural weaknesses in the rock."
I liked this from the Veedavoo piece...
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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And this one, From Johnny Woodward's profile,
"1995: Dog Eat Dog (5.13e [slab climbers can't climb 5.14 roofs]), Big Cottonwood, Utah". I dont know if it has seen a second ascent...Anyone know?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks Melissa I'll have to take a trip over the hill. I snuck out @ lunch and hit borders, touchstone & REI with no dice.
I think I need to own this one.
Can I be famous for taking Bob to the valley his first time?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jaybro - If none of those places have them, a trip over the hill today will probably yield the same results. I'd say they will have them in the next day or two. Subscriptions arrive a couple of days before they hit shelves in stores...
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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I think Peter Croft is a tremendous writer. He so accurately describes the child-like wonder of being in beautiful climbing areas.
Pete Takeda is also a very good writer. I once watched Bob Scarpelli fall off Seperate Reality close to the end of the roof. He yelled F#CK! so loud that the entire Valley shook.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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mentioned directly in one of the Letters in front
Let us know!