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NoRushNoMore
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 07:37pm PT
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So what's the story here?
We did this climb last weekend, nothing was falling down from above, first pitch is loose though but can be cleaned in a couple hours from a few loose blocks. Anybody else has gone on it recently?
Also, what's the deal with the bolts on P6, why did they get chopped?
Pitch 4 (Wild 5.8) is super fun, some incredible and exposed climbing
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WBraun
climber
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If there are some bolts missing at the anchors then the bolt police musta been there.
There are some self made bolt policemen always around.
Pricks, you know who ya are .......
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NoRushNoMore
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
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Chopped bolts are next to off-width, all anchor bolts are intact
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WBraun
climber
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Those were old and if they got taken out no big deal.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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No big deal pro-wise, but more retrofitting of history. Thank you, self righteous bolt police, you as#@&%es!
Probably very nice people in a different context.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I'm gonnah go an' put em back in, plus add some, then start a thread about it: werd.
Things been just too tame on the taco of late.
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WBraun
climber
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I agree to tame ....
It's time to raise hell.
They said there is no hell, but we'll show em .....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yah Werner, lets Rock.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Go, guys, put in some wierdness that will blow my fragile mind!
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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My understanding is that when the bolted anchors were replaced with new stainless 3/8" bolts, the crew doing the replacing removed the quarter inchers on the OW and did not replace them, since with modern gear the OW can be protected quite adequately without the bolts.
Brutus
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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What he said, glad they were there for first dozen or so times I climbed it, kind of a grounding thing.
On the other hand, maybe the chopper's ("theives of time™") kids can go to college through ebay sales.
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WBraun
climber
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You guys are a sentimental bunch?
but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.
10 stars .....
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Mimi
climber
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Try eleven.
Lovely thread.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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I'd give it 15 stars if Werner would go and dig out the first pitch.... prolly 70ft of climbing under that rubble..... Did I ever tell you guys about the time me and
Walt did Wild Thing??????
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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If you guys aren't bitin' into bolt wars,
Then shoot, I'm just goin' to post up pictures instead:
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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yeah, that right folly is about as good as they get.
but what about that, other, whil thang tale, Mr walling?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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The Good Book is my favorite Yosemite free climb;...I did this with Wally Barker , and I loved it. I heard about the rock fall, and I was told that it was not climbable anymore;...glad to hear otherwise. Great shots too, Roy. It is one of my favorite climbs anywhere, actually;...it's awesome.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Are the first pitch belay bolts still bent down or have those been replaced?
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nate23
Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
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is there a new yosemite free climbs coming out? I went up there and the biggest thing I had was 1 #3 cause there were all the bolts on the topo. I just kept climbing and climbing trying to get to the first one. * for sure
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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It was always on my tick list, perhaps one day.
That sure looks like a lot of rubble at the base of The Good Book. Did it come from the big scar above (dumb question?)
(Kevin, I remember when you guys freed the route, as I was watching you.)
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yofogood
Also, what about that big scar above Rixon's, how recent is that and how much rockfall?
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