Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 17, 2004 - 12:29am PT
|
In supertopo it shows a 4.5" spot on pitch #10 of the WFLT. So should I bring the #4 camalot as recommended or would I be fine with 1-2 #3 camalots? Do you need a big cam to get around this spot?
P.S. how many biners/draws should i bring to link every other pitch with a 60m?
|
|
Wheatus
Social climber
CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2004 - 01:29pm PT
|
My partner and I did the West Face starting on May 11. There is only one move that requires a 4" piece to get over the small eyebrow roof 12' above the start of pitch 10. I back cleaned the 4" piece to reduce rope drag and because the Supertopo says you need up to a 4" piece higher up. I did not need to use the 4" piece in the flaring crack higher up. I placed a #3 Camalot low in the wide pod section and top stepped to a perfect HB Offset in the top of the pod. Thereby, bypassing the very flared wide crack section (about 5' long).
One #5 Wild Country or #4 Camalot is all you need for pitch 10. I am sure a better climber could eliminate the 4" piece altogether.
|
|
HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2004 - 02:16pm PT
|
Hmm if that picture is at the spot.. it looks free climb-able...Any one got beta on how hard it would be to free past the wide section?
|
|
David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2004 - 02:55pm PT
|
Of coarse it's free climbable. Everything after the first two pitches has been freeclimbed. It'd be interested to see a topo for the mostly free version of WFLT. 5.10d/5.11a for that move?...just a wild guess. No idea.
|
|
retired
Trad climber
White Salmon WA.
|
|
|
May 17, 2004 - 08:00pm PT
|
Did the leaning tower last August. took but never used a # 4 camalot. On pitch ten I placed a #3 but held the# 4 in reserve since I heard it was needed on the pitch, it finished the pitch with me. BTW I thought the last move onto the ledge was tricky I tried to commit to freeclimbing but it didn't feel right finally got some little alien hybrid in for the last placement of the climb. Have fun the climb is just a total kick.
|
|
funkness
Boulder climber
So,Ca.
|
|
|
May 17, 2004 - 11:36pm PT
|
Hmmm..the Reid guide calls for pro to 2 1/2". When I did it in'94 we brought up to a 3 1/2 friend. Don't remember having any problems.
|
|
dougs510
Trad climber
Nashville, TN.
|
|
|
May 18, 2004 - 03:29pm PT
|
Just finished it Friday. The biggest thing we used was a #3...
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
May 18, 2004 - 05:17pm PT
|
How many biners do I need for Mungenilla (or however it's frickerfrackin' spelled...)? Do I need a #5 Camalot? Or, do I need a guidebook to spell...?
Or maybe I should think for myself and bring what I think I need, plus a little extra (yeah, suk it up and carry it) and just go for it.
SuperTopo and Medicare - making the world a beautiful place!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!