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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2004 - 11:54pm PT
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I was wondering if anybody had some info on the Becky Route on Bubbs Creek Wall it states that it is 5.8 A2 in the Sequoia Book. Any other beta.
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johnymo
climber
Bristol, NH
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Apr 24, 2004 - 09:44pm PT
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i heard about this climb. it sounds like you can skip the A2 section with a figure four. or maybe a double figure four? i don't remember.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2004 - 01:49am PT
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Jmo you bastard are you ready to fry in august hahahahahahahah
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Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Apr 25, 2004 - 10:56am PT
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I'd contact Eddie Joe at Sunrise Mtn. Sports, Livermore,Ca. I think he's your best source for factual info on the King's Cyn/Sequoia region. Groove!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 25, 2004 - 10:26pm PT
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try this URL for E.C. Joe
http://home.earthlink.net/~ecjoe/
go to the very bottom of the "Rogue's Gallery" and you'll find what you're looking for!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 25, 2004 - 11:09pm PT
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I am honored to count E. C. Joe as one of my friends and have climbed with him in the Needles on a most remarkable outing. I would let him explain his presence, or lack of it. E. C. is a pure soul, he is what climbing is about, at least in my mind. He isn't in it to spew his thoughts on the web in a forum... he has his web site and he actively updates it with information relevant to the climbing community. I get the occassional email from him about various climbing items he thinks are important to call to my (and other's) attention.
When I go out with him I feel that I am climbing back in the 70's, that spirit burns within him.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 26, 2004 - 12:08am PT
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He's younger then I am... so he's no Arnold Palmer age wise... quite capable of picking up his game again and being better then most...
...and he's still out there, with a long list of "routes to do"...
...but beware he doesn't suffer fools.
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funkness
Boulder climber
Ca.
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Apr 26, 2004 - 12:18am PT
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Bubbs creek wall is a cool backcountry crag. Compared to El Cap it's a tiny slab though. But there is some good routes on it. I have done a bit of climbing there. Good luck getting beta on the Beckey Route though. I doubt it has had a second ascent. My friend and I put up a new route just to the left of the Beckey Rt. in fact it shares the first pitch which is 5.9 A1. We added a 3/8" bolt to the belay which consisted of two manky 1/4 inchers.
Heres a photo of the wall.
There's two more routes not in the Seqouia Guidebook. Samurai Warrior VI 5.11 A3 Nettle/Thau (1998 I think) starts the same as Crystal Bonzai then moves right. This route goes up the steepest section of the wall. It was in the AAJ. And another route to the left of Crystal Bonzai. I dont know anything about that one except it was climbed by some guys from Hemet.
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funkness
Boulder climber
Ca.
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Apr 26, 2004 - 01:47am PT
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This is P7, my friend Gene is on lead..
(A)Crystal Bonzai (B)Samurai Warrior (C)Whats up Bubb (D)Beckey Rt.
Our route "Whats up Bubb" VI 5.9A3 17 pitches.(Aug. 2000)
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2004 - 12:06am PT
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WHats up bubb looks like a beautiful line perhaps worth doing more than the Beckey. Got anymore info.
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funkness
Boulder climber
Ca.
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Apr 27, 2004 - 01:59am PT
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Here is a topo.
One thing we forgot to do was keep a list of the rack. As I remember it was something like...
Double set of cams. Tiny to 4"
Double set of nuts. Some offsets.
6 LA's
4 angles,(small).
couple thin KB's
A few heads (med./sm.)
Hooks 2 bat,2 skyhooks,1 cliffhanger,1 Talon.
60 meter ropes
We had 3 bivy's but a fast party could probably do it in a day. The hauling and bolting slowed us considerably. The rock is high quality and the scenery cant be beat. It's waiting for a second ascent. I can supply logistical beta if you are serious.
Cheers
Rob
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Brock
Trad climber
LA, CA
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Apr 29, 2004 - 06:18pm PT
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What is the best approach trail to get to Bubbs Wall and where along the canyon is the wall? Is that the Bubbs Creek out of Kings Canyon or is it in Sequoia?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Apr 29, 2004 - 07:56pm PT
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Hit me up can you cut off some of the 9 mile approach or is all mandatory
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funkness
Boulder climber
Ca.
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Apr 29, 2004 - 08:55pm PT
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The best approach is from Roads end in Kings canyon. The first two miles are flat then there's about two miles of steep switchbacks followed by about six miles of easy hiking. The wall is about a mile up canyon from the Charlotte creek crossing. Once below the wall there's a short but steep approach up to the base.
Hit me up can you cut off some of the 9 mile approach or is all mandatory You can hire a packer from Cedar grove pack station to haul your gear and even yourself if your not into hiking. The base camp at Charlotte creek is deluxe. You should hit Charlotte dome while your there. it's about an hour hike up Charlotte creek from the Bubbs creek trail. steep though.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Thanks this looks like a terrific journey for about 4-6 days off.
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E.C. Joe
climber
Lafayette
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Nov 25, 2004 - 08:33pm PT
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Happy Holidays All!
In the .jpg above, there should be an"(E)" with "Aquaman," the main crack system to the right of (D). This was climbed by Leversee, etal.
I just received a letter from R.J. Secor concerning a new edition of The High Sierra Peaks, Passes, and Trails for '06. If you guys know of any new routes, etc., put your two-cents in!
..."And. as always, I am looking for information on new routes, corrections to route descriptions that may be in error, amplifications to route descriptions, wrinkles, and any other Good Ideas." - R.J Secor
2366 Las Lunas St.
Pasadena CA 91107-2510
 ec
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nov 26, 2004 - 11:19am PT
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Find Pat Brennen
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waddell
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 26, 2004 - 12:24pm PT
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what does the Becky route go at?
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E.C. Joe
climber
Lafayette
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Nov 26, 2004 - 12:30pm PT
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5.8, A2
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R.J.
Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
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Nov 26, 2004 - 04:24pm PT
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Those with information on new routes, corrections to route descriptions that may be in error, amplifications to route descriptions, wrinkles, and any other Good Ideas can also contact me via email at rjsecor@earthlink.net.
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