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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Tommy
Big Wall climber
London
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2004 - 11:31am PT
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Anyone done/know anyone that has done this route? Good/ bad reports from it?
Any info much appreciated.... am doing it in June with girlfriend!
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Apr 23, 2004 - 11:17pm PT
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All I know is that climbing walls with girlfriends sucks. You can never be inapropriate when you want and you have to be on your best bloody behaviour. I would rather be her hero on the ground than on the wall... Plus you can't be verbally abusive to your partner then laugh at your self centered prickness later. No, it become a processing nightmare. Look I process for a living, on my climbing time sack up and swing a few yourself or step aside.
Yeah that was of no help to you eh.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Apr 23, 2004 - 11:31pm PT
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Clustiere is just pissed because his girlfriend builds cleaner anchors than he does. I talked with his AMGA instructor once and his anchors are a stinky mess.
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bigwalling
climber
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Apr 23, 2004 - 11:40pm PT
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"as for the virgina start: yes, it is an ok start and avoids the wandering first four pitches of the trip. but don't do the first pitch of virgina. instead climb the first pitch of Lost in America and then the next two on Virginia. Pitches 2 and 3 of virginia climb mostly bolts and fixed heads... i think. they are not classic pitches but the trip pitches are not that classic either. however, doing the first 4 of the trip IS the route. your own personal ethics dictate whether you have to climb the first four pitches of the trip...
A topo for Virginia is Yosemite Big Wall obscurities http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/obscurities.html"
copied from Chris M.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Apr 23, 2004 - 11:57pm PT
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Spin master do I know you as your commentary is dead accurate and if you do know me and you mention this post to my gfriend then I will chase you down with my yos hammer.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Apr 24, 2004 - 12:18am PT
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AH ha after doing some research on you previous post I have discovered your secret identity Spinpoopy (still spinning). Well any way Ill be back in town this next wed and graduating. If you fix yer self up perhaps we could get buisy down at tahquitz, or a 60 hr trip from so cal to the valley and back.
The house is nearly mine.
Bubbs Creek ?????????????????????
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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Apr 24, 2004 - 01:35pm PT
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I did the first pitch of L in A as well, but continued on the upper pitches of virginia - some of the clinbing was cool, a little thin nailing and some crumbly hooks off the second to last (6th?) rusted-quarter-incher belay. mmmmm-mmmmm. other than that though, lots of rivets (one i pulled out with my fingers). not at all super-classic, but good to do something less traveled.
climbing with the girlfriend, eh? i'll bet that'll be the crux!
good luck
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Michael
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 25, 2004 - 08:17pm PT
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I started soloing the Trip last June the same time wall master Steve Gerberding and his wife started Virginia. He started with the first pitch of Virgina. I've been going to the Valley every June for 10 years and have very rarely heard of anyone attempting this route / variation to the Trip. Anyways, while he was nailing under a small roof, he casually stated to his wife(belayer) and viewers below, "You guys might want to watch it, this big block..." Needless to say, before he could finish his sentence a block the size of Chongo's belly came crashing down and destroying all in its path. No one was hurt. My point: be careful. From the looks of Virginia / the Trip, you might have more fun on a different route.
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Tommy
Big Wall climber
London
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2004 - 08:53am PT
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Thanks all for the advice. No probs with the girlfriend I can assure you. I climb with her all the time and she's far tougher than I am! She doesn't mind the odd slap either.
Think I will stick with doing Virgnia despite the odd bad story... sounds like it's gonna be intersting (loose blocks, dodgy belays etc.) Have seen a couple of people climbing the first few pitches before and didn't hear too many screams!
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