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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2018 - 11:28am PT
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TACOIDs:
As I work through the full catalogue of climbing injuries during my life, this is the newest. I've never injured a pinky before--besides some flappers on thin cracks. I've got a mild-to-moderate A4 pulley strain. No swelling. Tender to pressure. I'm wishfully thinking that because it's the li'l pinky, with proper taping I might get away with climbing sooner rather than later. I've been making some progress lately and really bummed about this set back. Experiences? Advice? Am I gonna die?
BAd
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Leave it alone for a week or so and let it rest/heal. Then try the tape on some easier stuff and see how it feels.
Failing that... just bite it off.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 11:33am PT
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^^^^^^^
HAH!
BAd
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perswig
climber
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Not an intricate belay-ledge (di)version of what the Brits call 'a wank'?
Disappointed.
Dale
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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you shure this would not have been better posted on April 1st??? can't remember the last time I gave a sh#t about what happened to a pinky finger climbing. Want some pain in your pinky? go ice climbing with any of the tools from before Ergos, quarks , nomics etc... Now worring about my fretting hand is a completely different story but certainly not on the radar when I am hanging on for dear life.
Tape it and climb on....
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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I have a near full tear of a pulley tendon on my left middle finger, I injured it about two months ago. Tape it, even when not climbing. I played off climbing for about a week then went back to very easy stuff all while keeping it taped. If you feel it start to hurt back off. I am almost back to full strength now.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 08:41pm PT
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Yeah, not too worried. Tried a few pull-ups with it taped and was able to just NOT use it. Could do hangs on the Rock Rings, too. I'll be on the stone next week. Workout tomorrow.
BAd
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Pewf
climber
Gunnison, CO
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I hurt mine in early January (A4). Had ~3 weeks of rest and tried the gym again with tape and the intent to not use it. Some days that was fine, but then I'd do something stupid.
I was just taping over A4, but now I've started taping the last 2 segments and using cross pieces to hold the final joint in a slight bend. That seems to do the trick in terms of keeping me from recruiting it and reinjuring. At least for climbing outdoors. I haven't tried the gym again because at this point I just want all my pulleys to get back to 100%.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2018 - 07:15am PT
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Yeah, Pewf, I think the key is to lock it up a little so it can't be engaged. Best of luck on your recover. Gyms are brutal on the joints.
BAd
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