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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2017 - 11:33am PT
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Hazel Findlay makes first ascent of Tainted Love, 5.13D R, Squamish.
A quote that should be of special interest to the Warbler, since its consistent with all of his notions of gender:
"Speaking to Hazel and Neil Dyer, the proposed grade is 5.13d R. Sounds spicy! To fill in a little history on the route, Squamish-local Neil Dyer originally top roped the route in 2015 but couldn’t find the headspace to lead the rig. According to Neil, leading the route is a real challenge with all the small gear and requires the climber to run it out to save energy and stick to the sequence. He reported that Hazel made a proper fight in the conditions it was sent and showed true tenacity in her head game. Neil reported it was one of the most difficult belays he had given and his legs were shaking at the end of it all."
http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/recent-news-hazel-findlay-makes-first-ascent-covetted-tainted-love-5-13/
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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I did it! Whoop. So desperately... In the heat and the smoke. This route has the ability to completely wipe your memory of beta (since there are almost no holds and only one obvious feature). I feel like it was a team ascent with Neil Dyer inspiring me to go up there and belying me a tonne. We called it 'Tainted Love aka Northern Soul' after the song and the feeling of loving something like climbing but also kind of hating it sometimes (when your legs are burning and you feet hate you and you've forgotten whether to stem or to bridge.) I'd say it's 5.13d R placing the gear, 8b, or E8 6c. It's all on gear and placing the gear is definitely cruxy (tiny wires). I really hope someone repeats this thing because the climbing is crazy cool and I feel like this kind of technical but powerful climbing is a dying art.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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But can she find the descent trail without supplemental testosterone?
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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No Jon, she is still lost on top of the chief...she's waiting for the warbler to rescue her
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yes, I would think the word "art" applies to a climb like that. Placing widely spaced, tiny stoppers while negotiatng extreme terrain is a fair step up from gunning to the next pre-hung quick draw a body length away. It goes boys!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Fuc%in A ..... 13D R
Climbers are doing the most amazing things today.
Hats off.
Respect
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 12:41pm PT
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So, Warbler, to summarize:
1) its not a trad climb because she top-roped it first, probably
2) she stole all the beta from the dude Neil, probably.
3) no one else could do the pure stemming route because they didn't have small girl fingers like her
4) 13D R is not cutting edge anyways
Am I missing anything?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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So, Warbler, to summarize:
1) its not a trad climb because she top-roped it first, probably
2) she stole all the beta from the dude Neil, probably.
3) no one else could do the pure stemming route because they didn't have small girl fingers like her
4) 13D R is not cutting edge anyways You forgot
5. In order for women to climb as hard as men they must consistently climb harder than men.
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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My comment about trad climbing went over your head, Matt, the term trad is one of my pet peeves. I'm guessing you haven't been climbing for fifty years, like I have, so your concept of "traditional" climbing is different than mine, whatever,
the different definitions of "trad" are irrelevant. I was simply pointing out that one of the many ways you trivialized this climb was by assuming that she top roped it first.
Which is it these days Matt? I'm sure the distinction has been debated in gender studies
Not sure what question you're asking me-- what does the "it" refer to?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Awesome looking route! I went through a period of leading hardish (5.11/ easy .12) stem box climbs at Paradise Forks- lots of small gear, powerful stemming- physically and mentally challenging for sure. I can't imagine cranking that up to 5.13d R. Impressive!
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
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Is "IT" PC to call a female a heroine
She said he belayed her "a tonne".
Maybe she didn't toprope it, or hang, or preplace gear while she was working it, or yoyo it, or preview it on rappel.
Y'know, traditional style!
She never claimed to do it in "traditional" style. She (and her partner) just said it was the first no-falls lead of the route. Judging from the instagram picture, it doesn't look like the gear was pre-placed, but who knows.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Maybe she didn't toprope it, or hang, or preplace gear while she was working it, or yoyo it, or preview it on rappel.
Y'know, traditional style!
...ie. un-Tainted!
Either way hella gem stem!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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"traditional" refers to dudes with short-shorts with their nutsack hanging out and tight shirts doing runout hand drill 5.11 in California. way homo.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Warbler, don't you know its become socially and politically incorrect to state the obvious anymore? Facts and statistics are not to be used, instead what someone feels should be, should be.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Carry on.
This SO blows the doors off politics!
I love you [people]!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Hazel is so rad and badass. Maybe she'll be the first to repeat Beth Rodden's "Meltdown," maybe the hardest crack in the country? Anywhere? Still waiting for the boyz to man-up on that one. These days, I expect the little fillies to out-climb me--always. Well, most people can out-climb me, including all those fetuses at the gym, little rat bastards!
BAd
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Guys, as with dadz, is generic, not genetic!
Don't copy.
Please repeat.
Great going, Hazel.
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Ghost Bear
Social climber
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The dainty fingers comment was mostly a troll to rile the heforshes and their feminist heroes, er, heroines.
Is it trolling to just be a d#@&%e? I thought you had to be more subtle/wittier than that...
What's the hardest stemming corner you've climbed, Warbler? And when was that?
Edit to add: I think Findlay is pretty f*#king awesome. Maybe that makes me biased.
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Ghost Bear
Social climber
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Ever try driving a one inch...
Well, I guess that explains it. My sympathies.
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