Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Spectacular!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Hats off to Thomas and Stephan! Having spent seven weeks recently in the Karakoram with Thomas, I certainly know what he brings to the plate.
It took climbers of this caliber and this many years for a repeat Jeff's magnificent solo masterpiece.
|
|
rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
|
|
Amazing! Definitely, three hardmen; Roger Schaeli, Thomas Huber, and Stephen Siegrist. Congratulations guys!! First, Wings of Steel, then, The Dawn Wall, and now, Metanoia. What's next?
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
North Ridge of Latok 1?
Ha ha...
|
|
BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
|
|
^^^^^^
I think that needs a 1st ascent first.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
Badass. Be nice to see some pictures of this ascent. They must be out there someplace.
Here's a pic of Roger Schaeli climbing a couple years back from a Swiss site.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
The majority of this route has been repeated by Ueli Steck, among others, and he didn't have much interest in finishing it when I asked him about it during a speaking engagement here in Seattle a few months ago. He also commented that the ice conditions needed to be just so for the route to be reasonable.
A real coup for the second ascent team after all these years.
Congratulations guys!
|
|
Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2017 - 06:37am PT
|
Good Morning Everyone:
Here are the latest news of the climb on the legendary METANOIA Eiger North Face !!! Chapeau !!!
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/jeff-lowe-eiger-metanoia-finally-repeated-by-thomas-huber-stephan-siegrist-and-roger-schaeli.html
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Mr. Steve GroSsman:
Good morning Mr., I wanted to ask, please, to Her, what I read in his post (which Ueli Steck, with which you have spoken in Seattle, said he had climbed almost all METANOIA route) So if possible, I wanted to know where it is arrived at that height, (for example mid-wall) or more above) and why has not completed, the ladder up in top) 8 Perhaps the Route Metanoia very difficult conditions? I apologize very much because I'd like to make me better understand but with the automatic translator it is hard to explain how I wish!
This also because I had never read anything Steck of Metanoia, just that he, (Steck) said he wanted to do this climb, but his effort, plus the fact coming up very high (but where?) I never read anywhere.
If I could say something more she would be very grateful.
Thank you very much, and I salute you for your kindness.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
Again I ask a question because I did not understand the article by HUBER. But the legendary Lowe (I have a picture with Miss Destivelle) at the base of the wall, before attacking (Miss Destivelle accompanied HIM LOWE) to attack the route) at the base of the Eiger north face wall) but it seems to me that instead of the big three climbers have passed from STOLLENTOCH or gallery window, if you prefer, am I wrong? Wondering why I can not understand where they started.
Thanks a lot for the answer.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Congrats to my bro Thomas on your SA of Metanoia!
Grab your delinquent brother and get your skinny asses back to El Cap so we can drink some beers.
Cheers,
"Piton"
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
Great story, thanks for the post Spiny
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
Beautiful article! Thanks for the link spiny!
|
|
EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
|
|
Fantastic accomplishment, Congrats!
Now one of them can go solo the North Face of Ama Dablam, (about 7,200 feet of high angle ice) Summit, partially descend and camp at a preplaced tent with gear.. one small stip, Jeff did it , in one day.
|
|
Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
|
|
Credit where it's due, Watermann2 alerted us to the story. Chapeau to him for doing so. I agree, this is a wonderful tale.
|
|
Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 12:58am PT
|
Good morning Mr. NORMAN, first thank you for Your kindness !!! Was right, I had read the article the great HUBER too quickly, so I had not figured out how they were going to hike, and though it seemed that the final summit in the attack, were not started from the base of the wall, but by Stollenloch ( window of the gallery) which is located in 600 meters from the base of the north wall, and that different roped choose (climbers) to directly pass on the north wall, avoiding the first part (the stem) of the wall (even to climb the Route Heckmair)
Thanks and best regards
_
"""""""""""""A second attempt followed on 28 December, but this too came to a halt when a storm set it. The trio returned on 29 December and, climbing directly from the ''''STOLLENLOCH""", embarked on their their attempt. After a bivvy close to the Central ledge the trio continued upwards, and reached the summit in the evening on 30 December 2016."""""""""""""""""
_
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2017 - 09:08am PT
|
I didn't comment on this yesterday but it is one of the few things I read on supertopo yesterday and certainly the best. Bump.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2017 - 09:14am PT
|
"Der Eiger? Moo!"
Moo bump
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!