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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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Here's a little trip report, mostly on the progress of the 5.10a offwidth recommendations out of Meyers' Yellow Guide. Looking down the list we come across a climb at a cliff I hadn't climbed at before:
This and That 5.10a with a first ascent by Jim Donini and Jim Bridwell in 1972. The first climb on this cliff looks like it was done in 1970, and we inadvertently climbed that one too...
This and That Cliff is located just east of the Lower Cascade Creek Falls. It gets sun first thing in the morning, and this time of year the sun is on the cliff all day long. Here is a shot from the bridge next to the tourist trap parking area:
The climb, This and That, is only 80' long, and the area is actually rather spectacular for its very steep walls. There are some excellent boulder traverses, and other stuff to mess around on, and it does not seem to get visited all too often. We explored the base of the cliffs and saw evidence of new route activity (I suspect Eric)...
Our objective was the great crack, about 4" wide arching up and over. The first half is offwidth, which is turned into a layback once the arch is vertical on its way to overhanging. It protects well with a 3.5, two 4 and two 4.5 camelots, take long slings too.
Here is Gary on the lower part of the climb:
working the great foot jams and getting good armbars low down. The crux is probably the piece of climbing just below an obvious feature on the arete, Gary cruising through the last moves before turning the corner
It was my lead and I went up and down a few times. Gary cleaned out the final corner by the bush, and finished replacing the slings for the anchors. The climb continues, but there really isn't any point in going up, if the day is nice the first pitch is great to do laps on.
So another offwidth ticked!
We then went down and looked at a couple of 5.9 climbs, the one we choose was Whim 5.9 climbed first in 1970 by Matt Donohoe and Pat Stewart. This is a chimney, really vertical, but its slight flair accepts beaucoup pro in the back... Gary starting, his lead:
And making good upward progress
Into very good heel-toe territory, with an absolutely bomber right chickenwing. The rock is very frictiony and you stick everywhere, good for the climb!
Gary just below the alleged crux:
Which really didn't seem all that much harder than the rest of the climb.
While the productivity wasn't all that great for the day, the routes were fun and in the sun, very very warm. At some point while I was belaying Gary on Whim some mad man was yelling up "hello" from the road, not many people out in this territory.
Anyway, as y'all know, I'm just sandbaggin' you into thinking you can climb in the Valley in the winter time. We finished up with the sun setting from the Merced Canyon, and descended to the road to find the morning frost still covering the rocks. We probably had 60 to 70 deg F weather on the wall while the river was chilly!
Hopefully we can tick another climb off the offwidth list next weekend.
Stay tuned!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Dec 12, 2006 - 12:56am PT
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Way to go Ed! Keep it up!
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Mimi
climber
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Dec 12, 2006 - 01:02am PT
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You lucky dog Ed! Good job and thanks for the TR.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:29am PT
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Nice, Ed.
That second one, in particular warms the cockles of my heart.
Skip the small stuff, especially after last sunday. ha-ha
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:36am PT
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Nice work !
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:41am PT
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Very inspiring, Ed.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:14am PT
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Hartouni told me to post here...hehe
Looks super fun...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:18am PT
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Good shots of nice climbing...
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:37am PT
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Ah, that's what you were up to.
We saw your van after we racked up to climb on Pat & Jack's but saw no Ed or Gary.
We went up and climbed Nurdles, Knob Job, and I got worked by Sherry's Crack. Good times, we were going to try and hit Generator Crack but the sun couldn't keep up with us.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:39am PT
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Nice! That first route looks really cool.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Dec 12, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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Way to go, Ed and Gary!
They both look really cool. Is Whim in the same area as This
and That?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Dec 12, 2006 - 02:28pm PT
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Dimitri's "Back In the Saddle" (5.11a), "Humdinger" (5.10d) and "Cramming" (5.10d) are all nice warm winter routes in the same general area as "This and That". "Whim" looks cool.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 12, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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Hey, Ed--
What gives with this grovel-lust? I remember This and That as being horribly awkward and strenuous for a 10a. I think you can top rope Fish Crack from that ledge with the tree. Even if you can't do the crux the lower crack looks good.
JL
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Dec 12, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
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Largo,
I beleive you are thinking of the route Free Press.
Ken
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Dec 12, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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What gives with this grovel-lust?
How many times have you climbed Waterchute?
I think Ed and Gary are just out there chasing fun. Wide climbs
these days are more mysterious than others, being climbed so much
less often. Information is more avoidable.
I'm not 100% certain in their case, but I did a good job of
avoiding OW for decades, and am finally getting around to
learning how to enjoy it. Right now my to-do list is dominated
by wide cracks. Maybe I'll build up my resume to be just slightly
better than pathetic, well-roundedness-wise.
Cheers
sm
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spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
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Dec 12, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
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Keep it going Ed! You're an inspiration!
Steve
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Dec 12, 2006 - 05:30pm PT
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Maverick and a trend setter.
Nice.
Anyone going up this coming weekend? How is the weather looking?
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Dec 12, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
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Nasty and sweet at the same time, just like how I prefer women.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 12, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
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Thanks for the TR Ed,
Wish I'd been up there too.
Zander
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Dec 12, 2006 - 05:58pm PT
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Zander, what are your crack machine sizes these days?
After trying Gary's, I can say that for the OW, some depth
is nice, allowing armbars, not just stacks.
sm
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