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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 6, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Yesterday Crusty and I did the first ascent of The Vulcan's Artery on the Stawamus Chief.
The Artery is part of a prominent treed weakness that starts at the bottom of the Sheriff's Badge and traverses for almost a mile up and right across the Chief, through the South Gulley, under The Pan Wall to the top of the Roman Chimneys.
99% of this weakness is mellow hiking on a forested ledge/sill but barred by a gnarly 20 meter basalt ramp and a fiercely exposed 10 meter overhanging section we dubbed "The Occlusion".
Ms. Chief and I recced up to The Occlusion and Luke "The Kid" Cormier and I recced from the Roman Chimney down to it a couple of years ago.
This year Luke and I rolled our sleeves up and trundled several tons of basalt into the rainy night by headlamp and with Crusty's help, we brushed out key sections of the trail and bolted across the traverse.
The bolted traverse went free at somewhere between a Mother Middle 5.9 and Smoke Bluffs 10b and Crusty and I forged on all the way to The South Summit.
With Lorrie and Corey's blessing, I brought some of Cozzy's ashes back from the gathering in Josh and we brought them along while working on the project.
Yesterday in my haste, I forgot bring them but plan to take them up the route and spread them at the top of The Roman Chimneys which of course is where Cozzy finished his first free ascent of the Baldwin/Cooper variants of The Grand Wall.
Cozzy was a good friend, a passport carrying Canuck and a big part of Squamish climbing history so we've dedicated our efforts to his memory dubbing this obvious adventure hike, "The Lost Coz".
More photos to follow.
PB
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Thats pretty cool.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Awesome Chief!!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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That's a nice tribute to Scott there Perry. A friend like you is a rare find. Nice work.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Just sent chills up my spine. But of a nice kind.
Pretty special stuff there.
Susan
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nice Perry....a fitting tribute !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Good work, fellows! Glad that someone finally took up that unique challenge, and for a very good cause, too. The first girdle traverse (of a sort) at Squamish.
The discontinuity must have been fearsomely exposed.
Did you see any signs of Northwest Passage?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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A line that pulls a lot of threads together. Cheers.
It seems you would likely intersect Northwest Passage somewhere along the way.
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couchmaster
climber
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Great stuff up there Chief. Makes me wish all those Coz posts on Supertopo hadn't been deleted back when. If he was alive I suspect he would have been right in the middle of the "hating on Hillary" in a big way in the political threads going on these days on the ST forum.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Very nice. Looking forward to climbing The Lost Coz sometime and reminiscing about my old friend. Well done, Chief!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Great tribute Perry.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Good tribute to your friend.
It will keep his name alive.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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That is so cool, a grand climb in rememberance of a great climber. He surfed a wide loop, the roller coaster of life sent Cozz to the stratosphere and back, In so many ways this climb sounds like it brings the circle home to a close.
thnx for sharing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Perry- It is amazing that so few talented Valley climbers ever chose to spend time climbing in Squamish as fantastic as it is. I recall you being a bit hurt by that when I ran into you quite a few years ago on the Grand Wall.
Who else did any routes of quality from California? I can't recall seeing anyone looking through the guidebook casually.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Looks like an awesome adventure-climb!!!
Throughout the movie, "Walking Tall", isn't that Squamish where a lot of the scenery is shot? It's the re-make of the original Walking Tall. This one with 'The Rock' instead of Bronson.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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The Chief, showing the approximate line of the route. It follows a fault for most of its length, much of it including trees. Perhaps Glenn can elucidate, also as to the origins of the name Vulcan's Artery, which is roughly the right 1/3 of the climb.
I believe that they climbed from left to right, so the right to left variation awaits a descent.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Fred and Scott. Who would have guessed that the former would outlive the later?
From La Gota Fria to the Grand, The Lost Coz crosses a few other routes. Let most of them RIP but would anyone be interested in an arrow to show us the start to Pan Tease?
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Solid.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Cozzy was a good friend, a passport carrying Canuck Good enough for me!
Okay, so I now I looked at the line on the photo that Mighty Hiker posted-- beautiful, man!
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