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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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1st Ascent: George Lowe and Jock Glidden, 1972.
2nd Ascent: Steve Swenson and Kit Lewis, 1981.
3rd Ascent: Barry Blanchard and Greg Cronn, 1983.
4th Ascent: Ward Robinson and Dan Guthrie, Mid 80's.
5th Ascent: Scott Backes and Bill Bancroft, 1990.
6th Ascent: Andy de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1992
7th ascent: Peter Arbic and Tim Auger, 1992.
8th Ascent: Jon Walsh and Chris Brazeau, 2006.
9th Ascent: Steve House and Vince Anderson, 2008.
10th Ascent: Jay Mills and Dana Ruddy, 2009.
11th Ascent: Jason Kruk and James Lavigne, 2012.
12th Ascent: Nick Bullock and Will Sim, 2014.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Anyone got a link for that awesome video of the two young bucks on this one, with the bivi in the cave et al.?
BAd
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Mt Alberta, North Face, 1st Ascent: George Lowe and Jock Glidden
Credit: Ascent Magazine
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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That first picture from the ascent article is incredible
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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2nd Ascent: Steve Swenson and Kit Lewis, 1981.
Special thanks to Mark Kroese. (From his book "Fifty Favorite Climbs in North America: The Ultimate North American Tick List")
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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3rd Ascent: Barry Blanchard and Greg Cronn, 1983.
By Gregg Cronn ( Mountain climber, Bellingham)
Barry approached me on a Saturday in the middle of a rock course with a crazy plan: Leave Sunday night from Canmore, climb the North Face of Alberta Mon-Fri, and teach the next scheduled beginning rock course the following weekend. We were not given much of a chance at pulling it off. "Everyone, said Chris Miller, walks into Alberta, no one actually climbs it."
We did get up the route, thanks to Barry's seasoning in Yosemite, brilliant climbing and our youthful drive and enthusiasm. It was a blessed experience that Barry has written about eloquently in his book.
A few memory's from the climb:
We were in awe at:
1. Tobin's last flight down the face. It was horrible to think about. The poor guy (RIP brother); and
2. George Lowe. We repeated and laughed over our favorite phrase during the climb, "George wasn't f*#king around." George got a chuckle out of that when I shared that with him on K2 in the summer of '86.
We actually did break 3/4 tools on the climb. It is comical to think that we would launch up these big faces with 70 cm Forrest ice axes and ice hammers. Although it did make walking easier on the glaciers.
Alberta is easily one of my best experiences in the mountains. Incredibly beautiful mountain with a lovely drape of alpine ice to complete the ascent. (I wanted to name my daughter Alberta but my wife refused!) Plus it cemented a lifetime friendship with Barry. We were in our early '20's and it was the start of some great days in the mountains through the mid '80's. Well before the losses of so many good friends and companions started racking up: Dave Cheesmond, Kim Momb, Ian Bult, Dan Guthrie, Catherine Freer...Some fine people who paid the cost of a frenetic period of Alpinism.
Folks in Canmore were quite worried for our well being. It rained hard all week in town and people grew concerned when we didn't come dragging back to town.
We did actually make it back for the next weekend's rock course. James Blench was kind enough to lead the Friday night session as we were driving back from the Ice-fields. Ah, the strength of youth, Barry slept in the back of van while I drove us back to Canmore-finishing the day that started at a bivy on the summit ridge in the bar at midnight. We were so proud. We took turns that weekend slipping off into the woods for naps.
Barry and I got to recently do what I would wish for all mountaineers: sharing some beers in the bar, long in tooth, telling stories. With love.
Great thread and stories. So impressed with some of the ascents cataloged here.
Thanks to Gregg Cronn
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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4th Ascent: Ward Robinson and Dan Guthrie, Mid 80's?
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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5th Ascent: Scott Backes and Bill Bancroft, 1990.
Bill Bancroft and I did the 5th ascent of the Lowe route in 1990. We started up the face around Aug 5th I think?? Roped up for the first couple of rock pitches and then soloed the ice. Bill took a rock through the top lid of his pack!! Rockfall was so awful by the time we got to the yellow band we stopped a the Lowe Bivy (which was pretty sheltered) and climbed the yellow band early the next morning by tying our two ropes together and not putting in any gear till after the knot. We climbed up to the crux which was a waterfall-no ice tongue for us! Tried another way and took a whipper aid climbing then it started raining. We gave-up for the day and bivied again in the rain. Next morning everything was soaking wet and we were going to bail-then the sun came out and by 10:30am the face was dry enough to continue. I took off all my fleece and in underwear and g-tex lead the crux pitch. Water pouring off me and scary expando for sure. We got to within a couple of pitch of the summit ice field and rain again. Bivied again! Rough night of lightning-we lowered the rack and everything metal and hoped for the best. Next morning same as the previous day we waited and waited then the sun came out and we finished to the summit. Here's the crazy part...On the summit we thought we heard voices and although it had been an arduous ascent we were not that wasted! Turns out Tim Auger was leading 6 other Park Wardens on a "Training" and had taken them up the Japanese route. We descended with them keeping us from being like every other party that had climbed the face before us and getting lost and bivying on the descent. Next day we walked out happy and satiated. All in all a proper adventure.
Thanks to Scott Backes
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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My wife and I rode our bikes from Jasper to Whitefish last summer and road by Alberta. It is just so majestic. Up there with some of the most beautiful mountains I've seen, including some in the Himalaya.
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Hey Marty,
I've yet to see Alberta, but I know what you mean. Some peaks have the magic to cast a spell. There's a couple of peaks here in NZ that have that similar aura.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Thanks for the content. Those pictures looking down at the ice field from above totally get me, make my stomach do flip-flops
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dan Guthrie was telling me about his ascent in 86. I think he and Ward did it in 84 or 85.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I only climb north faces when they are in the Southern Hemisphere.
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Thanks to Will Sim
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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6th Ascent: Andy de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1992
Hi Avery,
Julie Brugger and I did do the North Face of Alberta in early September 1994.
I think it was the 4th ascent, but I'm not sure. The log in the Alberta hut book just before us was about an epic retreat in bad weather that Sean Daugherty had, so maybe that puts a time line to it.
We walked in over Woolly shoulder to the Alberta hut the first day.
Descended down to the base and climbed the ice field and yellow band and about 2 or 3 pitches of the head-wall on the second day. We found a nice small ledge for a sitting bivvy which was fine.
The third day we climbed the rest of the rock pitches and had a bivvy just under the summit ice field due to a thunderstorm.
The fourth day we summited and descended the Japanese route to the Alberta hut again
And the 5th day we walked out.
Weather was good except for the brief electrical storm, conditions were good, cold and clear, and we had a lot of fun.
Many Thanks,
Andy de Klerk (Mountain climber, South Africa)
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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An Alpine Summer, by Joe Josephson.
Canadian Alpine Journal 1993.
Posted with the kind permission of Joe Josephson.
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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The following is an excerpt from Andy De Klerk's 2007 book "Sharper Edges"
Thanks to Andy De Klerk
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Bushman
Social climber
The island of Tristan da Cunha
Avery,
As many know, Tobin Sorenson is buried at Forest Lawn Memorial Park in our home town of Covina, California. I have always believed that my brother's heart and essence remain on the North Face of Mount Alberta. For all of the years since he perished there I have often wondered at the grandeur and allure of this enigmatic mountain. Being only proficient at rock-craft during my climbing years, I had never pursued mountains in a big way, and have been ever curious about the ascents on Alberta that have been done before and after when Tobin paid the ultimate price for pursuing his passion and love in the region that he so ultimately and ironically wanted to call home.
These past few weeks I have learned so much more about the history and legacy of the place through this thread, with all the climber's stories and photos documenting their forays on to the mountain. I am humbled as I read it and grateful to you for your work in compiling this history and chronology of climbing that face, and am looking forward also to see of any more accounts of ascents posted here.
Tim Sorenson
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Thank you so much Tim,
This for me is the ultimate approbation. When I first started climbing way back in 1981 Tobin was my hero and inspiration. By the time I found out he had died, almost eight months had passed. I found out from my friend Rob Hall, who has also joined Tobin and a whole host of others who found death in the mountains. I know Tobin, only by reputation and an almost universal affection from the climbing world of that time.
Brothers have unique bond, I know this from doing nearly all my climbing with my own brother. I know I would've be devastated if he were taken during those most exciting of years, when every day was so different from the last. I can only guess about the memories of Tobin you have, some 34 years latter. My experiences with Rob Hall are, sadly, nothing more than a slowly dispersing trail of memories. However, the unpardonable march of time still trips me up, from time to time, I'm happy to say.
Thanks again,
Avery
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