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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 15, 2006 - 08:27pm PT
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Anybody got any beta for this thing? How long? what size? Gear?
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Nov 15, 2006 - 09:05pm PT
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It takes good stoppers too. I know--because when I followed Suzuki on his first redpoint of the thing--I had to take out a whole bunch of 'em.
Curt
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2006 - 09:32pm PT
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What size? yellow TCU? Green alien? Smaller? tips? laybacking? Thanks for the beta
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Nov 15, 2006 - 09:53pm PT
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Clayman,
A number of lurkers here should have better beta than this, but I spent a really cold afternoon thrashing on it on solo-TR a few winters ago. Tore the first knuckle of my left ring-finger clean off. I've heard the key is to a) be skilled and strong, b) dog the piss out of it, c) red-point it with only three pieces (I think all green and yellow Aliens), or d) watch Kauk do it in that Largo video. I don't know if it's still there, but there was a fixed aider on the backside, leading to the bolts, if you want to toprope it. Otherwise it'd be a short boulder problem to get on top.
On a side note, I think Rich Romano (sp?) from the Gunks went out the day after I was there and did it in tennies. Could be wrong, but not entirely out of the question. He's frickin' skilled AND strong!
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itso
climber
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Nov 15, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
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Mostly yellow TCU’s (3-4) with occasional orange and blue. It will take some good nuts too but keep in mind that placing gear fast is a key. Crux is short and sequency (please avoid tick marking). It involves awkward fingers and bad feet, and some pain tolerance, and possible skin loss (average male fingers). Easier but sustained climbing to the top Good luck!
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Nov 15, 2006 - 10:08pm PT
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This thing is tough. I got it on TR, when I was in shape, but never got close to a clean lead of the thing. There is a pretty good rest after the crux--a big stem out left of the crack to an edge for your left foot, right foot on the edge of the crack. I have fairly small hands for a guy, and this thing still felt pretty painful for me.
I hope you get it Clayman. A few of my stronger friends have climbed it (on lead, my TR doesn't count) and every one lists it as one of their top all-time routes. Good luck!
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2006 - 11:25am PT
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Right on guys, thanks for the beta, be there in a week!
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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