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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 12, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
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I have been enjoying the favourite sport climbs thread and could see there being some potential for some stoke on the smaller rocks after reading the stories and posts there.
For bouldering I'm mostly interested in tall, techy, aesthetic lines on granite and a bit of a rock quality snob. But I still don't mind a good Hanta poo filled desert buttdragger cave every now and then. Favorites for me are generally below my limit and the kind of climb I could and would want to do laps on or repeat if I'm in the area, probably why most on my list are from near where I live- chime in with your favourite one or twenty or comment your thoughts if you have done any of these. These are all climbs I've completed, no projects. I generally don't put grades but am trying to get better at spraying so added them here as they feel to me, I didn't add any FAs tho so as to keep the bias down and provide options for another possible thread in the future. Would be cool if others did the same.
Too many to list, but this is the first dozen favourites across the grades I can usually climb that came to mind and the reasons why I enjoy them so much. Spray me down with your Faves, add grades or not, pics would be the best. Me loves to Boulder for many reasons, the main one being how these little stones can provide such great lessons in movement. I'll probably add some more later too and better pics or video if I can find some, no limit for favorite BPs IMO :-)
1.High V0 - Squamish: it's high and has big jugs, seems scary until u do it. In your face as soon as you walk into the forest. Probably climbed this one 500++ times no joke, there's so many eliminates and variations I can't ever see myself getting tired of walking into the woods and hucking a lap on it.
2.Church of the lost and found right side V1- Mammoth beautiful tall arête perched on the sherwin plateau over Owens valley on bullet stone. Great movement and position with a very cool pebble hold up high. Location, location, location.
3.The cube V1- Leavenworth: so so great, a perfect line of holds moving diagonally up and right across a big face on a classic Boulder with a beautiful committing crux sequence where the holds thin out at perfect pucker height.
4.The Hunk V2- Bishop: it's high and has small holds that get progressively bigger, great topout with a beautiful view & nice rock. One time I think we fit 8 or 9 of us on it at the same time.
5.Stem Gem V3- Joshua Tree: first time I went climbing in JT this and streetcar were the only climbs I knew about before arriving. I was really hoping to try it and was hoping it would be easy to find, its safe to say I was quite pleased after arriving in the dark to realize that it was only about 20' away from my tent when I woke up in the am. I walked over to do it the second I got up and first attempt I cratered right on my tailbone and skulked back to camp and made some coffee. After about 5 or 6 days of this I was stoked to finally run some laps once I figured it out. Unique movement and classic location as well as being a Bachar climb made this one special for me.
6.Kung Fu fighter V4- Squamish: tall, techy, hella insecure and cryptic until you either think outside the box or someone gives you beta. Let me know if u flash this one and I'll buy you a beer. Beyond classic for granite bouldering in my opinion, hated by many who climb grades twice as hard due to the lack of strength required. This is the epitome of a classic granite Boulder problem in my humble opinion, the top isn't hard but if you mix up your hands you'll probably get real scared.
7.Lawn Dart V4- Squamish: nobody knows what or where this one is but I think I've done the 2nd thru 6th ascent of it and it's gotta be one of the most unique BPs I've done. OW roof that starts with inverted hand stacks and then throw a double heel/toe cam over your head, reach back to a hand jam sequence then cut the feet, swinging them out in the other direction over the lip to a bat hang then cut your upper(lower?) body and pivot 270 degrees and climb the arête up towards your toes. Wtf?!!!!!!!! Great vision by homie NFR on this one, it will be known as a classic one day for sure.
8.Space Monkey V5- Squamish: steep compression with techy heel hooking to powerful moves on cool holds. For some reason I never protest when friends want to go to this Boulder even though the style isn't what I usually look for. The fun factor is high and there is a very awesome mail slot jug that breaks the line perfectly into two sections.
9.The Ruckus aka 7 Spanish Angels V6- Bishop: umm can u say giant boob holds up a slightly overhanging wall with a sweet lunge to a bucket at the top?!!! Super rewarding send and only 10' from the car. Sierra skyline views from the top aren't too much of a damper on the overall experience either.
10.Maxi Pad aka Styx V6- Squamish: beautiful face with great features and a sneaky sequence that sets you up for a committing toss for the lip, great rock and located in a beautiful part of the forest. Depending on if you nail the sequence this one can feel super flowy or super hard.
11.The land that time forgot V7- Squamish: tucked away a bit this climb is known by some locals as "perfect V7 face", big moves between good holds On great stone with some tricky body positioning and momentum required for success, under 6' tall? Then your gonna be cutting loose. Definite feel good climb. If it was in a more popular area it would be all greasy and covered in tick marks 24/7.
12.Mindbender V7- Squamish: it took me forever to figure out the body position to even hang on the first hold, so technical and sneaky but feels magic once you figure out the trickery. Right Thumb position was key for me on this one, off by 1/16" and I'm on my ass. One of the best 6' high, 4 move BPs around for sure.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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About f*#king time bro, you were starting to piss me off.
Now I'll actually read your OP and start brainstorming.
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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
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Just keep all your self proclaimed 5 star chossy FAs off the list and we'll be good Justin ;-D
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:24pm PT
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Haha, sh#t. There goes my list.
I guess Ironman Traverse then.
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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
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Good send bro, how many pads? What type of chalk?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
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When the pads are higher than the footholds, you lose count.
Mega Ohm, V5. Squaw's Leap
Think this has gotta be my all time favorite. Slick, enduro, lip traverse that if you fall on the first 15ft you might break something. Such a great feeling getting this thing, adrenaline overload and one of those moments as a climber you feel you accomplished something equal to curing cancer. Then in retrospect, you realize, I guess I just climbed a little rock.
Edit: Good one Looks Easy, every time I walk by that boulder I gotta take a pic.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:53pm PT
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Just about everything in The Pit at Indian Rock, but Watercourse Center, and my personal lieback start variation of the Nose from about 45 years ago are probably my favorites. Sad to say, last time I was there was about five years ago, and The Nose was overgrown, so I guess the latter route didn't exactly catch on.
John
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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Bouldering. That's practice climbing, right? What you do when you're injured or really messed up on drugs or something, right?
Reminds me of the old days at Squamish...
"What should we do, man?"
"I dunno. I'm too stoned to climb."
"Yeah, me too. I guess we should just go to the Smoke Bluffs."
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
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I figured you'd recognize that, this just in. Love me some V-easy Shuteye plates.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:59pm PT
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RyanD
I love The Hunk too.
All time fave.
The Wave, Groom Creek
A million sessions started here.
So many that I love more but it started with The Wave.
No name, Gates Pass
Learned how to climb here as a teenager, with a toprope.
Easy sunset circuiting
Too many to name from Hueco, Josh, Buttermilk country, Flag, Sedona, Durango, Black Mtn, Yosemite.......
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 12, 2016 - 08:59pm PT
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Happy Hooker@the Happies
Hero Roof@ the 'Milks
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 12, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
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Jefe, I was checking out some Groom Creek pics online and the Wave caught my eye. Looks so fun.
Would love to hear about Flagstaff and Sedona too. Take your time bro, and hopefully find some pics.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 12, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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Thanks for the replies everyone!!
Great stuff Jefe, the wave looks awesome. One of these winters I'm coming down to try some of your favorites for sure.
Laughing my head off at Justin's thoughts on sending.
Ghost, it wasn't just back in the day when people used the smoke bluffs as you guys did, only Dif is the name is official now.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jan 13, 2016 - 04:36am PT
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^^ I think you meant Sonoma not Sonora. Vice Grip is super cool and a wee bit funky. :-D
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 13, 2016 - 07:52am PT
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I hear there are some outside of Bishop.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 13, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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Small, but I love hand cracks and it's in the hills right by town. Up and down until my hands cramp!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 13, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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Looks great^^^
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