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Kevlar0
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 18, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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I've heard they've stopped making these (or the lead times are pretty crazy), and I was wondering if anyone knew where I might find one. I've searched ebay and various gear trade sides, but haven't had any luck so far.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Nov 19, 2015 - 12:29am PT
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Clint, I know that you like beautiful photgraphs of climbing gear.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2015 - 06:58am PT
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When a crack gets to that size you can stick your knee in.....works just like a cam.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 19, 2015 - 07:18am PT
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Tom hasn't stopped making them, but the lead times do appear to be pretty long at the moment. I'd say order before you need it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 19, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Order now, if you ever, want one.
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Kevlar0
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
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I got one coming in ~4 weeks. :D
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 19, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Bam!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 17, 2017 - 10:59am PT
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Bump bc whiny peeps on other forums.
Not sure I ever gave a shoutout or public thanks to Tom for my excellent VG 9. I don't place it often, but just having it on the rack is a calming influence(especially when I'm smart enough to leave it on the ground ;)
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 17, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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That post on MP is pretty funny complaining about them not being polished.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jan 17, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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Yep, dude should just go buy a Deis Cam instead. Heard they're real purdy and endorsed by Pampack (c).
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 17, 2017 - 11:23pm PT
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If the crack gets that big, you can HEAD jam!
If it's offwidth at that size, you just slam your head sharply forward into the crack and wait for swelling to make the jam secure.
With the proper fit, you can even act as the anchor. Head plus knee turns your body into a loop that can be slung or used to lap-coil a rope. And your hands are free for other activities.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 18, 2017 - 05:13am PT
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Ah, yes Madbolter! The trusty head jam!
Used to cop a rest at the beginning of the business of A Seperate Reality,
you could get a no-hands rest; Both hands off the rock if your neck was strong like that.
The Swelling Part? Not so much! sadly, your ears are at risk of being De gloved or ripped off.
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SilverSnurfer
Mountain climber
SLC, UT.
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Jan 18, 2017 - 10:45am PT
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Tom from Valley Giant contacted the customer, indicated that the unit had been assembled by someone else and did not meet his own specifications for finished product.
Any good machinist would have told you the same-it wasn't finished properly.
The issue was resolved.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 18, 2017 - 11:10am PT
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Oh, yes. The de-gloving effect is a significant problem. It takes more skill to head-jam than people initially think (until they try it for themselves). For example, blood is an excellent lubricant. So, you need to introduce swelling without bleeding. And, as you rightly note, the ears must remain out of the crack at all costs!
The key is to insert just the front 45-degrees of the head, without going in to the ears. And you can't "rattle" on the way in, as that typically results in blood loss (and the aforementioned lubrication).
Once the technique is mastered, the practitioner will be able to drive the head in, leading with the forehead, glancing just once on each side of the crack (focusing on the temples), until the head is angled in (the angle is critical), with the temples virtually filling the crack. The goal is a "temple wedge" more than cheeks, and certainly not ears!
Finally, because many wide cracks grow wider as they ascend, the expert practitioner is able to "rinse and repeat" the head jam higher and higher, as additional swelling works to one's advantage.
Of course, one must be sensitive to the sense of "mushiness" that can result after about the fourth or fifth insertion, which can reduce the security of the jam. One will typically not attempt anchoring off of a head-jam after about the third iteration.
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Barney Rubble
Trad climber
ALAMEDA
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Jan 18, 2017 - 06:04pm PT
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A friend is making some large cams. Not sure if he's selling them but they're pretty cool.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Jan 18, 2017 - 07:05pm PT
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Well that is quite the cruel c*#k tease. Any better close ups? Kind of look overly thinned out, curious how they did in pull testing?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 19, 2017 - 02:30am PT
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A friend is making some large cams. Not sure if he's selling them but they're pretty cool. Bonjour Barney,
Could you let me know the whereabouts of your friend who makes such magnificent big devices. I would be most grateful to him if he could send me good photographs of them. Thank you for your help.
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