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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Kiko
climber
California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 25, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
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Anyone know if there's been any rockfall on the GP apron recently? I'm thinking of playing around on the slab this weekend and haven't heard of significant rockfall for a few years. If anyone has the scoop I'd be much obliged.
Thanks,
Kiko
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 25, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
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I think there was some recently. We were up at Curry Village last weekend and it looked like a bit of new rockfall that way.
That said, the Grack's in a spot that's supposed to be low risk. It's super chill, so you know . . . you can run up the sucker, rap off, and run away. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 26, 2006 - 12:43am PT
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You must know that rock fall is a risk throughout Yosemite (or any other mountain area for that matter).
The Valley is under considerable scrutiny..
check out the link http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1998/ofr-98-0467/
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Kiko
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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Mac-Thanks for the info. I've heard it has been pretty stanble for the last few months but I wanted to check for recent activity from those of us in the know. Either way, can't wait to feel the crisp valley air on my face.
Kiko
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Oct 26, 2006 - 11:23am PT
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http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1999/ofr-99-0385/
Link to the USGS report on the June 1999 rockfall on Glacier Point above Camp Curry.
An interesting quote from the report…..Sleep soundly Curry campers!
“Curry Village was established in 1899 and eventually extended upslope onto two major talus cones which are the result of prehistoric rock falls. Part of the charm of Curry Village is the presence of the cabins amongst huge boulders, the result of prehistoric rock falls. The currently-active release area is above the eastern part of a large composite talus cone behind Curry Village. The lower portion of this cone is an area referred to as the Terrace and contains tent cabins used for seasonal housing for employees.”
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Kiko
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
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It turned out to be a perfect weekend for climbing in the valley. My girlfriend had heard rumors about the slick granite and wanted to take it easy on our first trip to Yosemite. We stayed in Camp 4 and I think I saw Werner wandering amongst us on Friday afternoon. I'm sure he had better things to do so we didn't bother him, but my girlfriend placed his name with the story of him climbing Astroman an absurd amount of times.
On Friday we climbed on Swan Slab and thought that the ratings were pretty fair. After leading Oak Tree Flake, we toproped Grant's crack and the unnamed thin crack just right of Grant's crack. I've never really finger-locked before but I think I just found a new favorite technique, cranking off of a bomber pinky and ring finger lock was definitely a good time. Granted it was a pretty low-angle slab but still a good time.
We ended up camping with another group which gave us some good options for future moderate multipitch routes. We also shared the plot with a Japanese guy and his girlfriend that ate dinner with these two Australian dudes. I think they had been in the valley for awhile because their stuff was just kind of scattered around the campsite. I felt really bad for them because they made this huge pot of noodles for spaghetti. After the noodles was done cooking, one of the Australian guys was transferring the pot from the bear lockers and he dumped the ENTIRE pot all over the ground. Not to be deterred, he picked up EVERY strand and went to the sink between the bathrooms and individually washed off every strand of noodle (reported to me by my girlfriend who went to use the john and saw him washing off single strands and inspecting his handiwork with a headlamp).
On Saturday, after breaking camp, we headed over to the parking lot below glacier point apron. We made the short hike up and over to the Grack and waited for another group ahead of us. It actually looked like they set a belay station about half way up the splitter section of the second pitch. My girlfriend led the first pitch with little fanfare and set up a belay at the base of the splitter. At this point, I realized that the group in front of us probably scrambled up about 30 feet before belaying. By doing this and stretching out two 60m ropes, the climb can be done in two long pitches.
The second pitch was fun as well and I think I would have enjoyed this crack a lot when I first started climbing. A few thin moves on slab with killer hand jams for almost entire pitch, very cool.
After rapping, we walked back to Harry Daley. The pin scars down low were kind of thin but still enjoyable to climb. Of course running it out was not too bad, but I thought I would try to place some small aliens which I had a hard time fitting into any of the pin scars.
As I was finger-locking down low and pretty much using face smears and some feet in the seam, I was wondering how much steeper and thinner Serenity Crack must be at 10d. The second pitch was great as well; a small roof move, great hands and a few finger moves through the well worn upper crack section.
Since we got the truly alpine start and rolled up to the base of the grack at the wee hour of 11:30, by the time we rapped Harry Daley it was time to head back to the cruel realities of work that awaited us.
The weather was beautiful so I'm hoping to make at least one more trip before it gets too cold. We met some cool folks and some characters as well, but all in all there was a great vibe and I can't wait to get back the valley.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 30, 2006 - 07:53pm PT
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"As I was finger-locking down low and pretty much using face smears and some feet in the seam, I was wondering how much steeper and thinner Serenity Crack must be at 10d."
Steeper and more powerful for sure...but better jams and grippier rock for your feet. I often find that 5.7 is its own kind of hard in Yosemite.
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