Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
|
The North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA)and the Museum of Northern Arizona are pleased to announce the fourth annual Granitica Festival to be held on March 5-6, 2016 at the MNA auditorium located at 3101 North Fort Valley Road in Flagstaff, AZ 86001. The hours on Saturday and Sunday will be 10 am to 6 pm.
Tickets are now available online through Flagstaff Climbing Gyms on their website
http://www.flagstaffclimbing.com click on blog or go directly there directly
https://clients.mindbodyonline.com/classic/ws?studioid=31814&stype=43&catid=100004&prodGroupId=12695
If you are not online then you can purchase tickets via phone at:(928) 556-9909.
The tickets are $20 base price plus .75 credit card fee and sales tax for a total of $22.61 per ticket. Your name will be placed on a guest list and no paper tickets are involved.
Only 150 tickets will be sold initially with potential for additional seating once this first lot is gone.
I will keep folks posted about seating availability.
Speakers do not need tickets!
The theme for 2016 is: The Templed Horizon- Grand Canyon Climbing. We will be examining the history of technical climbing in and around the Grand Canyon. This is a uniquely American climbing destination that has always offered a wilderness adventure to those in search of that kind of experience.
Come and hear about the adventures directly from the pioneers themselves as we revisit the best climbs and summits that have been done to date with plenty of image support to enhance the presentations. Thanks in advance to those with cameras and for all the help with images that goes into a successful program.
We are working on a list of speakers and presentations which will be posted here and updated as it comes together and fills in.
Tentative speakers include: Dave Ganci, Rick Tidrick, Jerry Robertson, George Bain, Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Alan Doty, Ken Walters, Robert Packard, Jim Haggart, Jim Kirschvink, Jim Ohlman, Albert Newman, Glenn Rink, Tom Martin, Paul Davidson, Bruce Grubbs, Chauncey Parker, Pete Gibbs, Eric Eliason, Bego Gerhart, Sean Peters, Eric Meudt, Andrew Frost and Bill Hatcher with more to come.
View east from Shiva Temple towards Zoroaster and Isis Temples. Tom Martin photo.
Mount Sinyala. Tom Martin photo.
The Spencer Twins. Tom Martin photo.
Excaliber. Tom Martin photo
Aaron Tomasi on Excabiler. Tom Martin photo.
Pernell Tomasi on Horus. Tom Martin photo.
Aaron Tomasi on Horus. Tom Martin photo.
Sean Peters scrambling on Mencius. Sean Peters collection.
Don't Miss the Grandest Climbing Show on Earth!
Subject to additions and subtractions as I continue to get commitments from speakers, the Festival program is as follows:
The Templed Horizon Program
Saturday March 6 10am to 6pm
Introduction and acknowledgements
Interactive Geology Notes by Glenn Rink
Ten Thousand Years of Grand Canyon Climbing by Tom Martin
Zoroaster Temple- FA by Rick Tidrick and Dave Ganci, Sept 1958
South Face by Dave Ganci, George Bain and John Annerino 1980(?)
Mount Sinyala- FA by Mike Sherrick, Bill Amborn, Don Myers and Jim Wilkerson 1958
Second ascent by Dave Ganci and Jerry Robertson, 1964(?)
The Book of Genesis- FA by Pat Littlejohn and John Mothersele, November 1976
One hour lunch break 1:30-2:30pm
Angels Gate-FA SW Arete by Chuck Graf and Dave Ganci, April 1972
Remaining summits by Glenn Rink, Mike Lake and John Mattson, 1980
Various summits- Ken Walters and Robert Packard
Marble Tower- FA by Scott Baxter and Ross Hardwick, 1976(?)
Isis Temple-FA by Alan Doty, 1971
Wallace Butte-East face by Alan Doty, May 1972
Hancock Butte-West face by Alan Doty, October 1976
Thor Temple-Southwest face by Alan Doty, May 1977
Buddha Temple- Northwest Arete by Bruce Grubbs, Chauncey Parker and Mark Brown, 1973 FFA by George Bain and Joe Sharber, 1979
Sunday March 6 10am- 6 pm
Introduction to NACHA
The age of the Grand Canyon research notes by Karl Karlstrom
Horus Temple-Southside east face by Jim Haggart and Scott Kronberg, Jan 1977
Tower of Ra- by Jim haggart, Art Christiansen and Barbara Zinn, June 1977
Tower of Set- Jim Haggart and Bruce Grubbs, Nov 1977
Temple Butte/Awatubi Crest/Chuar Butte- by Jim Haggart and Bruce Grubbs Jan 1978
Kwagunt Butte- Sunflower route, Dennis Abbink, Jim Haggart, Bruce Grubbs and Larry Treiber,March 1979
Scylla Butte- FA by Jim Kirschvink and Jim Ohlman, March 1978
Dana Butte- North Col Buttress by Jim Ohlman, Jim Kirschvink, (?) Bucchelo, Ken Walters and (?) Martini, May 1978
Hutton Butte- North face by Jim Kirschvink, Jim Ohlman and (?) Smith, March 1981
Mount Hayden-FA by George Bain, Joe Sharber and Abra Watkins, 1977
Pegasus by Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley, 1982
The Dome- FA by George Bain and Glenn Rink, 1980
Excaliber- FA by George Bain and Glenn Rink, June 1981
One hour Lunch Break 1:30-2:30 pm
Grapevine Buttress- FA by Pete Gibbs, Bego Gerhart and Eric Eliason
Monument Creek Pinnacle- FA by Gregs, Herbert and Trevithick Nov 1972
Comanche Point Pinnacle- FA by Bruce Grubbs and Larry Treiber
Comanche Point via Comanche Ridge- FA full route by John Harlin, Anne Arrans (UK), Roger Payne (UK) and Nikolai Petkov (BUL), 2003. Second ascent by Andrew Frost and Cullen Kirk alternate ridge Andrew Frost and Zach Harrison
Zoroaster Temple- Screaming Sky Crack by Carl Tobin and Eric Meudt August 1994 with Bill Hatcher also presenting
Tooth Rock (Vermilion Cliffs)- FA by George Bain and Spencer McIntyre, 1977
Tooth Rock- FFA by Albert Newman
Vermilion Cliffs Climbing by Albert Newman
If you have good formation shots of any of the listed summits or climbing photos please contact me as we need image support for these presentations for optimal results.
|
|
10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired Climber
|
|
That should be a good show. Hope I can make it.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 06:02am PT
|
Every time I was down in that glorious gash I marveled at the potential climbing for those who are into vertical mud. Wish I could make the show...
|
|
Chalkpaw
climber
Flag, AZCO
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 08:28am PT
|
Sounds like a great event. I have several Baxter/Doty stories, going out with them on various adventures. Sometimes carrying a rope but intent on not using it. Call it technical hiking. One of my memories is following Alan Doty's FA beta about summiting Isis. We tried our best to follow and see how he did it back in the 60's or early 70's. No guidebook then, so no guidebook in our packs to recreate some of the feeling of adventure. Lots of following one's nose to thread and wind through the various layers of soft stone. Its like looking through the eyes of history. What a great summit. Then, rather than take the long long route to the back of Phantom canyon, we dropped direct off the redwall, a 600' fifth class descent. Talk about pucker factor. We got back to camp hours ahead of our compadres. A little variation of the original, but come to find that Rink and Bain had climbed up that rib back in the late 70's. One just runs into one bit of history to the next while skating though the ditch.
But then, one occasionally finds something that the history makers missed on routes...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2015 - 06:05pm PT
|
Great stories chalkpaw!
I should have a preliminary route and speaker list shortly.
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
|
Here's some hard rock (Quaternary Basalt) in an otherwise soft rock paradise. Has anyone climbed this thing...Vulcan's Anvil?
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 12:24am PT
|
There are several dws 'routes' up the Anvil, but it is considered sacred by the local Indian tribes and they have asked boaters not to touch it. For a long time, there were considerable offerings stuck in the crevices for good luck in Lava--I think most boaters respect the wishes of the Hopi, Havasupai, Hualapai, and Navajo these days?
|
|
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 05:14am PT
|
Great event and a great topic!
|
|
Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 06:05am PT
|
I will look forward to it, Steve.
Thanks!
Scott Mc
|
|
overwatch
climber
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 06:19am PT
|
Alan Doty? A distant relative maybe?
Jim Doty
|
|
Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 07:22am PT
|
Will we be able to get tickets by phone or email?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2015 - 07:57am PT
|
I will announce the ticket availability and purchase details early next year but you will certainly be able to buy them by phone or email.
|
|
the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
|
Curious about the story behind this photo? Come on down to Flagstaff next March for the details…
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
|
I am pleased to add fellow Seattleite Spencer McIntyre to the list of speakers to accompany George Bain talking about the FA of the Tooth in the Vermilian Cliffs. This is outside the Grand Canyon proper but will be included in the program.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
|
Climbing in the Grand Canyon seems a little esoteric to me.....but the Tooth, well i've climbed it. Full on climbing for sure.
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2015 - 11:14am PT
|
True dat Jim.
But come on over and you'll be a bit surprised at the quality of a few of the routes.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
|
Copy that!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|
|
DesertRatExpeditions
Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2015 - 11:50am PT
|
Super excited for this. Looking forward to getting my tickets as soon as they are available.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!