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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 5, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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Who put the new convenience anchors in on Book of Revelations at Church Bowl? They are right in the middle of the pitch, 40 feet off the ground. They are pretty lame in my opinion, and should be removed.
- Eric Gabel
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Marcus McCoy from somewhere over the rainbow...
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CHOPCHOPCHOP
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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That tree was looking pretty beat when I rapped off it 10 years ago.
But half way up the pitch, really?
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Matt's
climber
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i did this climb a few days ago. It was quite enjoyable.
As erik mentions, there is an anchor 40feet up, with bail-biners on the hangers, and steel rap rings on the bail biners.
I ended up stopping the climb at the anchor because I thought the route ended there. I would agree that getting rid of it is probably a good idea...
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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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In the middle of the first pitch? Like before that little insecure step right? Yeah that's a dumb place for an anchor. But there should be an anchor added to the top of the first pitch on the ledge, so that way people don't have to rap off the tree.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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is there a place where I can practice aid for the practice aid line?
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Marcus McCoy from somewhere over the rainbow...
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I enjoy free climbing Church Bowl Tree enough that I did a bunch of laps on it this summer. Shrug.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Why is this guy still allowed to walk around the valley doing this?
why hasn't anyone removed the carb from his car yet and dropped it near the lineup..
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Holy cow, this has got to stop. Convenience aid belay in the middle a cool free climb??
BTW, I think anchors atop Golden Needles is a good idea--I went up there a few years ago to do the same, but couldn't really find a good spot for them. That said, wandering up into the dirt and munge and rapping off the trees wasn't good for that area--too easy to dislodge something on folks below, and all the dirt was getting foo'bared.
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Matt's
climber
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erik sloan--
I appreciate that you own up to the routes that you modify.
that said, book of revelations is as great free route. It has fun movement and a pretty cool boulder problem move. It is 5.10d-- a grade that is accessible to the masses (have you ever free-climbed it, erik?) . To turn this into a practice aid route is a travesty. The route leans so far to the right (and probably goes at C1 with only cams) I don't think it is a really good practice aid route.
also--what are you taling about? the churchbowl tree route is as great free route. It is REALLY FUN to free climb-- the finger locks are absolutely bomber. Yes, the feet are a bit slippery, but a lot of yosemite climbing has slippery feet. So what??
best,
matt
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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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Not to mention why in the F*CK any practice aid climb would have to end after 40 feet instead of the whole pitch? I guess after you do 40 feet on El Cap, you just rappel and head for the couch?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Didn't see that one coming.
Nom Nom Nom
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Erik,
I climb in the valley a good bit. Was there past weekend and will be there again the coming weekend. Probably spent about 20 days there in total this year. I climbed Book of Revelations very recently (last year maybe) and while it's not a cookie classic, it's a pretty good route and a fun challenge. Why the F**K would you add an anchor to the MIDDLE of an established pitch? That pitch is only 10d to get to the actual end of the pitch. Piss easy by today's standards. Why can't you just take your stupid aid practice to the top of the pitch? Or just free the rest of it? The harder move is around 40 foot mark, the rest of the pitch is only 10- or so. Better yet, practice REAL CLIMBING (a.k.a. free climbing) so you can make it to the top of the pitch. There is absolutely no reason to add an anchor to the middle of that particular pitch.
I gave you the benefit of doubt and stayed off the Sloan bashing thread since I don't know all of the details and don't believe most of the speculations. I have seen your bolt on the 3rd pitch of the Nose and don't much care about it, since it's an aid climb for me. However, if the stuff I read about you is true, then you are one twisted lunatic to put it mildly.
I was planning on doing some bolt replacement on Saturday, so I'm bringing a crow bar with me along with all the wrenches. I think I'll end up using it more than I planed on... If you got a problem with that, see me around 4-5 p.m. on Saturday at Church Bowl, unless someone chops them earlier.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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I live here and know Eric Sloan and for the record, I think putting an anchor there is really stupid. I think aid climbing is stupid but that's another discussion. Book of Revalations is a cool free climb. If I ever see someone aid climbing it I'm going to give them sh#t for sure
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Matt's
climber
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vlad-- i think in the first picture, the stance that the climber is standing at is about where the anchor is.
best,
matt
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Huh? Church bowl tree is a nice finger crack. The slickness just means you have to be solid on 10a fingers. Photo: my son and me a fall or two back.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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That crack looks sweeet! Why on Earth would someone sloan it???
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Hahaha Sloan strikes again!
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