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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
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Murphy's Law 1: The bar tack is always within the hank of sling that I'm trying to tie into a knot. When I try to straighten this out, it will localize itself across the biner. At least 3 times.
Murphy's Law 2: The bar tack will aways be at the bend in my tripled up draws making a tangley mess.
Murphy's Law 3: The new bar tack set up on the new camalots makes the slings point straight up on about 50% of all desperate placements, making them take about 5 seconds longer to straighten out and clip. If they went with the old style open loop, be bar tack would lay across the grab loop on the stem.
Is there any way to have a strong but flexible stitching...or a continuous loop weave? Surely you engineers can think of something?!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 23, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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Good thoughts, Melissa.
Though, after having used tied slings (water knot) all weekend, I'm not so worried about bartacks right now. :)
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 23, 2006 - 05:55pm PT
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Bartacks are my pet peeve, too, but not something that's going to go away soon. Someday in the future we'll be able to use adhesives or welding (Check out all the new clothing that's not stitched together.) but it's still going to be a while after that when the joint will be flexible.
The sailing people have some cool technology for splicing 4 and 5mm dyneema. I have a sling I spliced that I tested to 30kN and it still looks brand new. Cool, but scary, because the splice is a glorified Chinese Finger Puzzle affair. Damn thing actually works though.
Mal
Oops, this is getting dangerously close to a technical discussion. Shouldn't someone move it over to rc.com?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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A rigger friend of mine showed us some strong spices once, but they didn't seem like they'd be lower profile or more flexible than the bar tacks.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 23, 2006 - 08:57pm PT
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Melissa,
Sorry, I can't let this one go. I've had some strong spices before but they've always been in the form of a good Thai curry or a Mexican green chili, not a stiff rope.
Really, though, a short splice, as in one that would be used in most braided ropes, is stiff. The ones that I did were full length Chinese puzzles. The rope was inside of itself for the entire loop. It was pretty cool.
mal
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Oct 23, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
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I find the tubular attachments on the skinny mammut slings to be far less often in-the-way.
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TradIsGood
Fun-loving climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Oct 23, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
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I must be going to the wrong bars.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2006 - 09:02pm PT
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I think you've got a follow up innovation on the Max Cam to sell to us, Mal. Hotcakes if you can make it flexible! And quit making fun of my literacy.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 23, 2006 - 09:53pm PT
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The people I've shown it to are pretty scared of it; Chinese finger puzzle and all. You can work it loose pretty easily. haven't tried a drop of glue to hold it together, though.
Mal
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