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Resouledjams
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
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Looking to get out for a long day or two on a solo mission in the Valley later this week. Who's got a suggestion for something in that 6-12 pitch range? I'm just trying to take it easy and have a free climbing good time by myself so nothing harder than 5.10. Optimally I could split the climb into two days and bivy on a fat ledge.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 24, 2015 - 11:23am PT
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What kind of climbing do you want to do? The Apron has several routes of 5.9 or less that see little traffic these days, but slabs are all you'll see. The East Arete of Split Pinnacle has a lot of 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, and is straighforward as a roped solo, because the traversing sections are trivial. Finishing with the lieback, however, is a whole different undertaking!
The Central Pillar is wonderful, but tends to have traffic all the time. The NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock is one of the Valley's best climbs, but it's physical demands leave me exhausted with a partner, so soloing it strikes me as something more than a mere casual ascent. The North Buttress (not DNB) of Middle Cathedral is much longer than your 6-12 pitches, but has a lot of moderate and engaging climbing. I've never had to share it with another party.
John
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 24, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
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I was thinking of Glacier Apron too... Serenity/Sons would be a good choice if you catch it when there is not much traffic. Sometimes it's a zoo, sometimes it's empty. You could even carry it to the rim and then walk off.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 24, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Sounds fun.
Higher Spire?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 25, 2015 - 03:06am PT
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Somewhat depends on what you've done before and might repeat and at what level you will free solo versus rope solo. After all, onsight soloing is dicier than soloing something you've done.
I've rope soloed things like NE Buttress of Higher, East Butt of Middle, and East Butt of El Cap which went fast as I was only roping up for 5.9 or harder and using pieces attached to a screamer/daisy to protect individual moves here and there.
Lucifer's ledge from Point Beyond would be fine even if you had to rope up for it all. I went all the way to the Oasis but would never do that again cause the upper part is sketch.
West Face of Rixons would meet your criteria and nobody would be on it since it's in a notorious rockfall zone
Peace
Karl
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jul 25, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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All the bolts on Rixon's were replaced last season including the east side rap route. The west side can also be rappeled now on new double ring hangers. I was there for several weeks and it seemed as safe or safer than GPA or the North Apron of Middle. The Far West route is still scary (loose rock and rockfall) and the Direct Southwest Face goes A-1 for the first few pitches if you want to solo aid practice. I have stayed away from Rixon's since the 1995 rockfall because I was there that day. I finally went back last season and was suprised by how safe I felt.
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Resouledjams
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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West Buttress is on the list for sure. Mcguzzy, does it go clean or is it one of those that I'm gonna want to bring the hammer? North American and Salathe were clean for sure but some stuff I've read suggests WB might go old school.
On the solo I'd rather go safe and nail if I had too.
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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