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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 18, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Claudio Barbier
Claude Barbier est adopté par les Italiens et devient Claudio, « il divino Claudio », « il Maestro » également, car ses exploits sur les parois des Dolomites sont remarqués : Claudio Barbier ouvre plusieurs itinéraires, il grimpe souvent en solitaire et, grimpeur rapide, il pulvérise les temps d'ascension des voies qu'il répète. C'est le 24 août 1961 qu'il réalise son plus grand exploit, il enchaine, en solitaire, dans la même journée, cinq voies extrêmement réputées sur les faces nords des Tre Cime di Lavaredo : la voie Cassin à la Cima Ovest, la voie Comici à la Cima Grande, la voie Preuss à la Cima Piccolissima, la voie Dülfer à la Punta di Frida et la voie Innerkofler à la Cima Piccola, soit un cumul de d'environ 2 000 mètres d'ascension en un temps cumulé de huit heures et quarante minutes.
Au milieu des années 1960, Claudio Barbier développe l'escalade libre en Belgique: il décide de peindre en jaune, sur les falaises belges, les pitons qu'il n'est pas nécessaire pour lui d'utiliser pour parcourir la voie10. On parle alors de « jaunissement » d'une voie11 et réussir un passage « en jaune » signifie le réussir en escalade libre.
Wikipedia
Solo climbs
 Voie Cassin à la Cima Ovest6 (20 septembre 1959)
Enchainement en solitaire de la voie Cassin à la Cima Ovest, la voie Comici à la Cima Grande, la Preuss à la Cima Piccolissima, la voie Dülfer à la Punta di Frida et la voie Innerkofler à la Cima Piccola (24 août 1961)
Voie Andrich-Faè en face nord de la Civetta (28 août 1961)
Face nord-ouest de la Torre di Valgrande (massif de la Civetta) (1er septembre 1961)
Voie Comici à la Civetta6 (25 août 1962)
Voie Detassis à la Cima Tosa (massif de Brenta) (6 août 1964)
Arête nord du mont Agner massif du Pale di San Martino6 (1er septembre 1964)
Voie Italia 61 au Piz Ciavazes (19 septembre 1968)
First ascents
Directissime à la Cima d'Ambiez (massif de Brenta) avec Toni Masè, Gianni Mazzenga et Lella Cerasin (16 août 1961)
Voie Albina au Piz Ciavazes avec Reinhold Messner (10 septembre 1968)
Voie du dragon en face ouest du Lagazuoi Nord avec Carlo Platter et Almo Giambisi (26 septembre 1969)
Once upon a time .... Claudio Barbier: http://www.claudiobarbier.be/index.html
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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Marlow's on a roll with climbing content. People (and places) I am unfamilar with; Thank you!
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jan 22, 2018 - 06:58am PT
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This thread contains all the info you need to know about this forum ;-)
Sarcasm off.
Thanks for the post, Marlow!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 22, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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C'est le 24 août 1961 qu'il réalise son plus grand exploit, il enchaine, en solitaire, dans la même journée, cinq voies extrêmement réputées sur les faces nords des Tre Cime di Lavaredo : la voie Cassin à la Cima Ovest, la voie Comici à la Cima Grande, la voie Preuss à la Cima Piccolissima, la voie Dülfer à la Punta di Frida et la voie Innerkofler à la Cima Piccola, soit un cumul de d'environ 2 000 mètres d'ascension en un temps cumulé de huit heures et quarante minutes.
Sweet mother of alpinism! That would be a good week’s worth of climbing, let alone 8:40!
And thems weren’t exactly hiking routes, people! I’ll have whatever he was eating!
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Jan 23, 2018 - 08:42pm PT
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Claudio Barbier's solo of the Cassin on the Cima Ovest, the Comici on the Cima Grande, and the other 3 routes in 1961 was completely astonishing to my climbing pals and myself. But not just to us, then neophytes, but to the best climbers in Europe. It smashed through the norms and ethics of the era. It was simply without precedent. The first two mentioned routes were still considered hard climbs. It was only in 1959 that British teams first climbed the Cassin on the Cima Ovest, Bonnington writing that 9 to 12 hours was a then-typical time.
Look at the so-evocative photo of the 1961 Trento Film Festival luminaries here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2073745&msg=2442480#msg2442480
Barbier would have completed his extraordinary enchainment some months before: no wonder he is in the front row! As far as I am aware there was no one else even contemplating such climbs at that time - which makes his achievements all the more remarkable.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2018 - 08:47am PT
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The four replies to this just shows how parochial Americans are. Claude’s amazing feat was
surely the equivalent of the 4 minute mile, at the least!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 24, 2018 - 12:16pm PT
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Reilly, Kenyan Daniel Komen ran the fastest ever two miles in 1997 in 7minutes 58.6 seconds. Thats two 3:59.3 miles in succession. Maybe Boarbier’s feat should be compared to that.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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No argument, Jim! Bannister’s was just more historically significant, even if it was broken only a month later, and it wasn’t too far removed timewise from Claude’s amazing feat.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 24, 2018 - 12:46pm PT
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This Google translation is obviously lacking, but better for me than Italian.
Can someone explain the "Yellowing" in the paragragh on his Belgian climbs?
Claude Barbier is adopted by the Italians and becomes Claudio, "he divino Claudio", "il Maestro" also, because his exploits on the walls of the Dolomites are noticed: Claudio Barbier opens several routes, he often climbs alone and, climber fast, he sprays the times of ascent of the ways he repeats. On August 24, 1961, he made his greatest feat, he enlisted, alone, in the same day, five extremely famous tracks on the northern faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo: the Cassin way to the Cima Ovest, the Comici way to the Cima Grande, the Preuss way to the Cima Piccolissima, the Dülfer route to Punta di Frida and the Innerkofler route to the Cima Piccola, a cumulative of about 2,000 meters of climb in a cumulative time of eight hours and forty minutes.
In the mid-1960s, Claudio Barbier developed free climbing in Belgium: he decided to paint in yellow, on the Belgian cliffs, pitons that it is not necessary for him to use to navigate the way10. This is called "yellowing" of a pathway11 and passing a passage "yellow" means to succeed in free climbing.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
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Fritz
When he climbed a route in free where pitons had previously been used, he painted the unnecessary pitons yellow, he "yellowed" the route.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jan 24, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
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As Marlow stated. It was really the predecessor to Kurt Albert's use (3 decades later) of a 'hollow' red circle marked at the base to indicate a route he was 'working' to climb free. Once done completely free he filled in the circle and the route was considered 'redpointed'. Barbier was ahead of his time in several aspects of climbing, so it is amazing that he is relatively so little known today. Perhaps this results from the fact that he lived, and did much of his climbing, in Belgium, rather than in one of the more well-established climbing scenes. Sadly he died as a result of an anchor failure while route cleaning on one of his home crags while still at the height of his climbing abilities.
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