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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 13, 2015 - 08:42pm PT
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Let's face it. No grade gets more lambasted than 5.10d.
Everyone wants to be able to climb 5.10 - it is the new standard for transition into bigger grades.
5.10d pisses people off if they can't do it, it makes them feel like they can't climb 5.11 - which sucks if you are itching for grades.
I give you an example of an exasperating one:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/hemp-liberation/105815129
Thoughts?
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thebravecowboy
climber
the Midcontinent Rift
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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.10c can be pretty full-value, I think. S-crack starts as near-horizontal .5 and cruxes (for me) on the vertical .75s. the rest is a cakewalk, har har.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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thank for the photo, 'cowboy
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SweetWilliam
Boulder climber
TheSand,Man
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:12pm PT
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This one 10d was too hard for me.
That chick in the picther should have worn more than a sports bra like a long sleeve you get all scarped up in there.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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Dude, that's a dude in the Twilight Zone photo. Nick Taylor I think? Still, probably not the best climb to go shirtless on, but then he's way harder than you.
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SweetWilliam
Boulder climber
TheSand,Man
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Apr 13, 2015 - 10:02pm PT
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whateverr fatman did you climb it smarty? who is nick taylor i thought that was the guy in the rolling stones who died?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 13, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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It's late Sweetie. Listen to your mommy and go to sleep and stop trolling on the internet.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 14, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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The most notorious that I have been on is El Matador at Devils Tower. Most guidebooks say 10d/11a. What's with that? For me it is one of those that you tell yourself it is only 10d before you lead it and you brag it is 11a if you redpoint it.
Prolly a little tougher for the under 6ft crowd, but I am 5'9" and have stemmed it bottom to top on TR.
Although El Mat is tough it is the 10b's that I feel like are really sandbagged at DT.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Apr 14, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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hahha i've beeeeen to heaven
and there the resident bartender
spends more time weaving
eternity than she does
undoin my now.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Apr 14, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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The hardest 5.10 in the Valley I've ever been on is only 5.10b, Waverly Wafer.
That thing requires all my strength, no matter how I do it.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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I think .10d is definitely a sandbag grade. It's what you rate a route that you know is harder but you want your friends to think they're weak.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 14, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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Not so sure it's a sandbag grade, a few climbers are humble and figure naw I didn't FA an 5.11, I'll call it 10d.
And yes, I've climbed 10d's that seem harder than 11b's.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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^^^^^ good point!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 10:48am PT
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There's more truth in the thread's title than many think. When Sacherer and Beck freed the DNB, they rated it 5.9. Now, ST rates it 5.11a.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 14, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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The "New old-school 5.9" is really more the rating of "5.9+", no?
Many 5.9s never are an issue, but over time, they get the coveted 5.9+ in the book.
and I've been on a few 10ds that climb like 5.9+... awkward, pumpy, stemmed out, sketchy rock.
So yeah, I can see it.
Now, for an example climb, hmmmm...
how about EBGBs?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 14, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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I was just reading in an old Mountain mag about the FFA of Crack A Go Go, they rated that rig .10+.
The good old days when climbs were easier.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 14, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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When 5.10 was the top grade, that's what the hardest climbs were rated. Just as 5.9 was used by those who figured they weren't the best in the world and who were they to apply the mighty 5.10 rating.
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thebravecowboy
climber
the Midcontinent Rift
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Apr 14, 2015 - 11:56am PT
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I would agree Munge. 5.9+ is the hardest grade in rock climbing.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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The Cleft was 10d for me the first time, but that was before hand stacks were invented.
I can relate. I took solace, however, in the fact that it was A1 for Pratt himself in a couple of spots the first time he did it, too. It didn't take me long to realize that 5.9 for Pratt inevitably meant desperate for me.
John
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 14, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
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Cowboy Larry took me to the Cleft for my first real climb. He claimed it was perfect for a beginner. He swam up it and I can't recall even getting my feet off of the ground.
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