Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 7, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
|
How many routes in the ol' Yosemite guide book (or others) are still searching for that coveted second ascent?
My guidebook is so old it's almost individual pages now. I have penciled in notes on may of the pages, but one stands out--bare.
None of my markings.
Page 314, the single route there Local Motion. What do you think, in search of a 2nd?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Most likely.
Routes with hard free climbing and some aid don't fit most people's templates.
Remote routes that aren't extremely high quality are unlikely to be repeated. People figure if they are going to expend all that time/effort to reach the location, why not do a new route instead?
Half Dome is a good example.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Local Motion is too far to walk.
It's got a short aid pitch to get to it unfortunately.
It's Off-Width which nobody likes but is still a mind blower crack climb.
I did it not because it was up there.
I only did it because it so powerfully pulled me towards it to do it.
I had to do it for no other reason.
I didn't know what to rated it as my partner did the rating .....
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
|
Do you recommend it (I know, crazy loaded question).
For some reason, I have always loved the look at that thing on paper. Hooks to a ladder, to OW... Yeow.
I've never seen it though...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Do I recommend it?
I don't recommend doing anything unless you are really drawn to something within your own being .....
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 10:01pm PT
|
Hahahaha. Never one to disappoint.
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Sounds to me like it's calling you. I say go scratch that itch!!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
I posted some amazing looking multipitch crack lines seen on SW face of Eagle Peak (3 Brothers) via Gigapan/ Xrez here once.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 12:00am PT
|
Are you sure Able Gable hasn't climbed those?
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 12:33am PT
|
Willy, I'm just nervous my walker will get stuck in the Oh-dub.
But I think I found another: Bunghole of the Universe
I guessing this hasn't had a 2nd because the route is a fabrication.
Tokopah Reality sure looks bitchen though.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
I remember when you did that thing Werner. Looks awesome. Gradually right leaning beast on the wall left of the Rostrum gully I recall. Didn't you do that with Rudy McD?... Or was it Fos?
I did a route right of Mirage that may not have seen a second. The Color Purple 5.11c with Pete Takeda.
An overhanging lie back/jam up a wafer thin flake to a two bolt anchor. A fall onto the cams would likely expand the flake and ultimately ruin your day.
I was able to drill anchor bolts only by stemming back behind me onto a large Oak tree branch. Thought I was in trouble before I discovered the convenient "stance".
Also, Hells Hollow and Holy Diver both above the Devils Bathtubs. Never heard anything about those routes getting done.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 01:22am PT
|
I did Deviltry, left of Holy Diver, but I don't remember looking right at the others there. Hell's Hallow gets a star, so it's go that going for it.
I once did a pretty obscure route, the aptly named The Plank, .10b far right in the arches terrace area. It's drawn on the topo, but only listed in the FA section. Probably doesn't get a lot of attention.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Did an obscure OW finish to Vendetta with Chappy. We rated it 5.10 plus.....not sure it's been repeated, fun climbing though.
Yosemite is the paradigm example of the herd instinct in climbing. On any given day a vast majority of climbers are on a handful of routes.
Lot's of routes may have second ascents but very few after that.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
HAIRLINE, A4 X. Tahoes hardest aid line.
How can you claim that it is the hardest aid climb in Tahoe? Have you done them all? It may as well be, but who knows...
And why is it A4 if it is an X? A5 literary means that you COULD die if you fall because rest of the gear won't hold you from hitting the deck. So if that is the case, it is an A5 right?
Im still waiting for some young buck to call with the news of a 2nd, confirm the grade and tell a story.....
Mr. V???
Honestly, I would love to, but am not in good enough shape yet to give my best shot to OS a 5.12a. I have not red pointed a single pitch on pure gear of that grade, so I will wait. Hardest I RPd was a 11d. Maybe in a year or two I will have the skills and the drive? But in the same time, if I am walking that far, I would probably be after exploring new routes etc.
Still REALLY want to get out to GOD. That area looks COOL. Driving out of Kings, looking at those spire-like domes...mmmmhhhmmm...granite looks perfect!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/from-afar/107028746
This one looks great too!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
The Wall of Early Morning Light has yet to see
a second free ascent. . .
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Ive done most of the Aid lines in Tahoe and then some.
That explains!
So don't you think it is an A5 if it has death as potential in case of a fall? Or is it JUST severe injuries?! :)
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Thread drift alert!!!! The OP says IN the Yosemite Guidebook.
Open it to the world and I can serve up a ton of ideas.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!