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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
jonnyrig
climber
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Mar 24, 2015 - 09:07am PT
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What's the point of this? Just securing and hauling up a bag full of goodies that you don't otherwise want on your waist?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Jonnyrig,
For soloing. either to bring up your tag bag, or haul bag with out having to rap down to release it. It could allow you to haul as you rap to go down and clean.
Prod.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 25, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Sorry if this is a stupid question that aid folks already know...
How do you use this in the context of solo aiding? Make a skinny tag line that goes through a directional below the lower anchor (below where the haulbag is hanging) so then when you are up top you pull on it to release the bag?
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 25, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
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It seems to require a pull from below. I'd think it needs to be rearranged in order to release with the pull from above, or redirected with one line to release the carabiner while simultaneously pulling the bag up off the anchor with the haul line.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 25, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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This is how I was shown how to do it thru Pass the Piton Petes diagrams and scholorly writings, and by Mark Hudon. Cheers mate!
http://www.vimeo.com/28774228
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 25, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
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As far as I know...
 Chongo invented [or at least first published] the counterweight hauling aka double tagging, whereby when soloing and you rap down to clean the pitch, a separate load goes up for free
it requires a separate rope, and separate load
it is extremely hard to perfect, and is very dangerous in case you take a lead fall, and somehow knock the load off its fifi
I invented the slippery overhand backup knot cuz I was scared. It works well and releases, but you shouldn't use a small wiregate. You should use a wide gate Mexican locker - this way you can't possibly open the gate, either while tying the knot or during its release!
Mark Hugedong improved the system with the Petzl fifi which has the slot. Why Petzl didn't make the slot big enough for a carabiner I'll never know, you have to use a maillon rapide
This system is EXTREMELY dangerous and is for EXPERTS ONLY! You could well end up dead if you blow it.
Bigger image here, not put into post so as not to make it too "wide":
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/2852/xl1AWu.jpg
I used the double tagging and fifi on my solo of Horseplay in the fall of 2013, and it worked beautifully. Every time I rapped down, a nice heavy half-body-weight-or-so load went up for free!
I did not use the Solo Tag Rack - if I needed anything I forgot, I just rapped down and grabbed it.
Cheers, eh?
PtP Pete aka Dr. Piton
P.S. Hey you know what? I made all of these pics and videos of my systems on Horseplay, showing how I set this stuff up on the wall, and made a bunch of real live action videos showing how it works.
Anybody want to have a go at putting them together into a little instructional video? I could upload my entire folder onto Dropbox, you could download, see how it all works, put it together with some video editing program, and load 'er up on Youtube.
Email me if interested, and I'll give you all the stuff. If nothing else, it's a fun solo trip report with videos and stuff.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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